Jump to content

Scotttyd

Member
  • Content Count

    49
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Scotttyd


  1. I am looking at getting a wide angle lens for my d7000 - I currently do not take it under water (use an older p5100 for that) but have plans to do such soon. I am wanting a wide angle lense that I can hopefully utilize for both underwater and above water/landscape settings. Does the tokina 10-17 create a fisheye affect at 17mm? I am not that experienced at wide angle and not sure when the fisheye effect comes in.

     

    thanks


  2. I am interested in starting to put together a portfolio for local art festivals, local consignment shops, etc. I am far from a professional, but I would be interested in giving it a shot.

     

    I have seen how other photographers display their photos, and I am interested in where you can get those supplies. (meaning the backing, celephone wrap, etc....

     

    Any tips and advice would be appreciated.

     

    thanks!


  3. So, I am going to have my first "show sale" - ie. local flee market friend from back home is going let me sell my photos at her booth. I am am far from a professional, but I thought I would throw my hat in the ring to see what kind of bites I can get - plus the sale is in a small town far from the ocean and limited number of underwater photographers (ie - not in Fort Lauderdale where my pics are probably a dime a dozen) - and might get some interest and can see if I want to pursue something a little more serious.

     

    My question is this - at art sales I always see people with photos matted in basic white mattboards - I have experience in cutting mats for framing photos in my house, but how do you mat a picture for a sale? There is usually a front and back mat and I was wondering how they attach the two without gluing and not allowing the buyer to remat in a color if they choose? and where do you buy these types of mats (I usually get my matboard at Michael's.). Also, the clear cellophane bags they are often wrapped in, where do you go about finding those?

     

    I live in Raleigh, NC - so I am guessing I have access to just about any of these things locally, just not sure where to find them

     

    Thanks in advance!


  4. So, after reading a lot here I thought I was going to get the toktina 10-17 lense for WA photo. After reading

    http://www.uwphotographyguide.com/underwat...tography-lenses

    I am starting to think it may not be best for me. Much of my WA will be here in North Carolina taking wreck photos where the fisheye look is not desirable. Would I be better off getting a rectiliner lens - if so, which one? I am shooting a d7000 with probably a nauticam housing.


  5. I am familiar with Ikelite housings - I have used them on my two previous P&S set ups. I have a nikon d7000 that I want to house. I know with Ikelite my inon z240 strobes will not be able to do TTYL. As far as the other options - I know we are talking about double the price. I am not really wanting to start a debate on quality of those over ikelite - I know the pros and cons of the aluminum housings. My questions is two fold.

     

    1. How much advantageous is the TTYL vs manually setting the strobe? I know I usually have to take a couple test shots to get my strobe settings right, and then, especially with the macro stuff, often do a lot of adjusting under water using the histogram.

     

    2. What other housing (Aquatica, etc) are out there that would be capable of ttyl with this set up, and rough price points (ie. which ones are $$$$ vs $$$).

     

    Thanks y'all (I am not really southern but it has worn off on me)

     

    cheers


  6. I am looking to add a macro lens to my new d7000 - I am new to the DSLR - I was talking to my friend who is a professional topside photographer and she asked if I considered a 40mm macro when I told her most people seem to use a 60mm macro. What would be the advantages and disadvantages of the 40mm? Obviously cost is less on the 40mm. If I am diving in clear tropical water - I would think (although very possibly incorrectly) that the 40mm would allow you to not have to get as close to the subject.


  7. thanks for the info - the lens is pretty old - at least from the early to mid 90's (I remember using the camera when I was in High School and I graduated in 1996. It sounds like it would not be something I would make a decision based on getting this lens free - if it works - great, if not - oh well.


  8. My mom told me she has a vivitar 75-200 mm f4.5 lens. I am looking at buying either a nikon or a canon dslr - she used this lens on a pentax camera. Any chance in hades this would mate with either a canon or nikon? I know it has no real underwater usage - and not that I am planning on using at such, but if it is of any use and /or value - it may swing me one way or the other.

     

    If it does not mate with one of those camera - any idea as to what value it has to sell?


  9. Thanks all - 1. I do plan on using it topside quite a bit (probably more than underwater), so the features that make it superior in that setting are also important to me.

     

    2. I do have a decent experience underwater - just not with a DSLR - but I have been manually shooting a p5100 for 4 years.


  10. So I am debating between the two. Mainly for topside - but if I save enough $$ then for underwater. I am far from a professional and have always used manual P&S's. What are the main differences? and with the backorders of the d7000 - you cannot find any discounted deals on them. Is worth the extra $$, especially for somone such as myself that is probably a long ways from ever getting everything out of the camera that is has to offer.


  11. Hi Scotty,

     

    Inevitably, you'll collect lenses, ports and other stuff. But given your anticipated diving I'd recommend a 60mm macro and macro port, a Tokina 10-17mm, a Kenko 1.4 teleconverter and a Zen 100mm port (or similar) plus extension tubes for the Tokina and Tokina plus Kenko. You'll use the Tokina for standard wide angle and the Tokina plus Kenko for CFWA. By the time you've become reasonably proficient with this kit you'll be totally 'up to speed' with DSLRs and will know exactly what you need for increasing the scope of your shots.

     

    Canon or Nikon? I have to say that I'm a dyed in the wool Canon man. Maybe, just maybe, Canon sensors are at present, a nad ahead of Nikon (yes, I'll duck and get my coat...). Ergonomically, maybe the Nikons are better than the Canons for top-side. The top of the class in terms of crop sensors though has to be either the Canon 7D (my choice) or the Nikon D7000. There are bodies from each stable which also perform equally to their respective siblings terms of picture quality and at a lower price but with reduced functionality. Frankly, the cost saving of the Nikon D7000 over the Canon 7D is enough to turn your head...

     

    Housings? The one-stop-shop at present is the Nauticam for quality, ergonomics, price, service, support and innovation. I have two and would immediately buy a third if Nauticam supported a full frame Canon. No question.

     

    Just my tuppence worth... Hope this helps, Tim

     

    thanks a lot

    Ok a canon t2i is comparable to a 7d, what would be the "sibling" to the d7000 in the nikon world?


  12. thanks for the help - starting to make more sense. My photography will be in two general places - Caribbean trips - and NC diving. In North Carolina- wide angle will be the most common - probably not a lot of macro here - but Bonaire and the Caribbean will be mostly macro. If I go Nikon - and upgrade later - will all of the lenses most likely fit a future Nikon (and vice versa with Cannon)? Also, will lenses swap between manufacturers, or will a lens that fits a nikon not work with a cannon?


  13. You get what you pay for more or less. Better build quality, newer sensors, better controls. Especially handy to have separate controls for F-stop and shutter speed (two control wheels). Alternatively, you might need to push a button extra.. No trouble on the surface, but less handy underwater. I would take a look at sites such as dpreview.com to look for more info on the camera.

     

    Lenses : the mms is the focal length of the lens. higher numbers mean a longer lens (less view), smaller numbers a wide angle. Have a look at one of the lens or camera manufactorer websites, I am sure they have examples and info. Typically, people start off with a 60mm macro (or later a 100mm macro) and a 10-17 FE zoom (Tokina). There are some mid range zoom options available (17-70mm sigma) but i think most use either macro or wide angle.

     

    I dont know the Z240, but I dont think you will get ttl from an ikelite housing with that (but you can use it in manual). You choose the port according to the lens you want to use. Ikelite fixed ports and modular ports (most other companies use modular ports).

     

     

    yes, the ikelite won't marry with the ttyl from the z240 - other housing will - but I use it on manual now anyway so am knowledgable how to do that.

     

    if I am correct a 100mm would requite you to be closer to the object than a 60mm macro? How close would you have to be to an object to effectively use either a 60 or 100mm lens?

     

    Also, a modular port vs a fixed port - can you explain the differences?


  14. I have been using a nikon p5100 point and shoot (with full manual controls) for several years and have decided to make the jump to DSLR. My question is, where do I get started?

     

    What characteristics should I look for in choosing a DSLR? A quick look at best buy and prices range all of the place from 500-1300. What are the differences that really matter? Also, a quick tutorial on what a lense number means? ex. 17-85 mm. 55-200 etc. What type of lense would you use for underwater (obviously a macro and/or wide angle lense I assume??)

     

    I have used wet lens's currently (two stacked macro or a wide angle). Is there a good "general purpose/flexible lens to start out with, or do you generally have 1 for macro, 1 for "regular", and 1 for wide angle?

     

     

    Also, I have a inonz-240 strobe which I assume I can sync with just about any DSLR camera (depending on housing) to use TTYL. I have always used ikelite housings. Not that I am against any of the others, just what I have used for P&S. On their website the hosuing comes without a port it looks like? How do you go about choosing a port, etc? Is it based on what type of lens you are using?

     

    Thanks in advance for the "newbie" question!

×
×
  • Create New...