jefdriesen

Wetpixel uses a certificate from Let's Encrypt. The validity of those certificates is always maximum 90 days. They are normally automatically renewed, so this is nothing to worry about.

https://www.aquacam.nl/nl/flip-snoots/307-micro-mesh-dome-polish.html

I assume you are referring to this video: https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/66364-wetpixel-live-macro-close-up-lenses/&do=findComment&comment=419877 That's about the UCL-90 and UCL-67, which are two different lenses.

Yes, that was actually the reason for asking my question. There is quite some information out there on those newer lenses, but it's rather difficult to compare with those older Inons because there are no direct comparisons. According to the Inon specifications, the UCL-330 and UCL-165 are respectively +3 and +6 diopters. Is that on land, or also in water? I have no idea. How do they compare for example to a Subsee +5 or +10? Or even the much more expensive Nauticam SMC-1?

Hi, I own the both the Inon UCL-165M67 and UCL-330M67 wet macro lenses. I bought those long time ago, for use with a compact camera. I now use a Nikon D7000 DSLR (DX) camera, and occasionally still use those Inon lenses (in combination with either the Nikon 60mm or 105mm). But I wonder how these compare to the newer macro lenses (Subsee, Nauticam, etc) that are available nowadays. Is it still worth buying one of those newer lenses? What can I expect from those? Higher magnification, better image quality? Jef

I'm about to leave for a trip to Abu Dabbab in Egypt. With some luck we should be able to photograph sharks (Elphinstone) and dolphins (Sataya dolphin reef). Which lenses are the best option for those subjects? I normally use a Tokina 10-17 for wide-angle, but I wonder if that's too wide? I have absolutely no idea how close you can get. Should I add a 1.4 teleconverter for some extra reach, or is the range of Tokina alone sufficient? I also have a Sigma 10-20 which I bought very recently. But I wasn't able to get a zoom ring in time, so I can only used at a fixed angle. I also didn't have a chance to try it in the water yet. So I'm not sure if it's worth taking with me.

Hi, I own two Sea & Sea YS-110. I have been very satisfied with them, and never had any problems with them. But after about 10+ years of use, one of the strobes died last year. So I'm looking for buying a new one. The two obvious candidates are the Sea & Sea YS-D2 and the Inon Z330. Since I have been using Sea & Sea's before, that would be my first choice. But then I read about issues about those strobes, and very positive things about the Inon Z330. Since I still have a functional YS-110 left, I prefer to continue using that (for cost reasons). Are there any downsides with using two completely different strobes? The color temperature are not the same for example. The Z330 has dome shaped front. Doesn't that make it more suitable for wide angle and less for macro work? I suppose it's also more easy to scratch? How about attaching a snoot? I made a home made fiber optic snoot for my YS-110. While I can still use my YS-110 for snoot work, someday it will die as well. And then I'll probably the same strobe as I'm going to buy now, to have a matching pair again. Jef

Yes, but the question is do you notice the difference in practice? And if the answer is yes, is it worth the extra money or not? I'm considering buying one of these lenses, but I'm not really sure which one I should get.

Darktable is a very nice alternative for lightroom. It's open source and works great for me. It used to be Linux only, but since last year there is a Windows version as well!

Does the newer F3.5 version of this lens have any advantages over the older F4-5.6 version?

A couple of hours is no problem. Just not days (or longer than necessary).

I had the same problem a couple of years ago (with the exact same housing and port extension). I gently used the same rubber band trick (oil filter tool was too small). Since then I make sure to lube the oring every time and remove the extension ring immediatly after use. Never had the problem anymore since then.

The lens has been repaired by Tokina and is working fine again. Thanks everyone for the good advice!

Looks like you were right. At 10mm the aperture doesn't seem to close properly. If I use the aperture lever to open the aperture, it remains stuck in that position. When zooming in just a little bit, the aperture blades do close just fine. Is this something that can easily be fixed (for a reasonable price) at a service center? I have zero experience with that.

I know where the DOF button is. My question was more like: how do I use it to confirm whether there is indeed a mechanical problem or not?