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jefdriesen

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jefdriesen last won the day on August 16 2017

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About jefdriesen

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    Lionfish

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Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Belgium
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D7000
  • Camera Housing
    Hugyfot
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea & Sea YS-110
  1. I'm about to leave for a trip to Abu Dabbab in Egypt. With some luck we should be able to photograph sharks (Elphinstone) and dolphins (Sataya dolphin reef). Which lenses are the best option for those subjects? I normally use a Tokina 10-17 for wide-angle, but I wonder if that's too wide? I have absolutely no idea how close you can get. Should I add a 1.4 teleconverter for some extra reach, or is the range of Tokina alone sufficient? I also have a Sigma 10-20 which I bought very recently. But I wasn't able to get a zoom ring in time, so I can only used at a fixed angle. I also didn't have a chance to try it in the water yet. So I'm not sure if it's worth taking with me.
  2. Hi, I own two Sea & Sea YS-110. I have been very satisfied with them, and never had any problems with them. But after about 10+ years of use, one of the strobes died last year. So I'm looking for buying a new one. The two obvious candidates are the Sea & Sea YS-D2 and the Inon Z330. Since I have been using Sea & Sea's before, that would be my first choice. But then I read about issues about those strobes, and very positive things about the Inon Z330. Since I still have a functional YS-110 left, I prefer to continue using that (for cost reasons). Are there any downsides with using two completely different strobes? The color temperature are not the same for example. The Z330 has dome shaped front. Doesn't that make it more suitable for wide angle and less for macro work? I suppose it's also more easy to scratch? How about attaching a snoot? I made a home made fiber optic snoot for my YS-110. While I can still use my YS-110 for snoot work, someday it will die as well. And then I'll probably the same strobe as I'm going to buy now, to have a matching pair again. Jef
  3. Yes, but the question is do you notice the difference in practice? And if the answer is yes, is it worth the extra money or not? I'm considering buying one of these lenses, but I'm not really sure which one I should get.
  4. Darktable is a very nice alternative for lightroom. It's open source and works great for me. It used to be Linux only, but since last year there is a Windows version as well!
  5. Does the newer F3.5 version of this lens have any advantages over the older F4-5.6 version?
  6. A couple of hours is no problem. Just not days (or longer than necessary).
  7. I had the same problem a couple of years ago (with the exact same housing and port extension). I gently used the same rubber band trick (oil filter tool was too small). Since then I make sure to lube the oring every time and remove the extension ring immediatly after use. Never had the problem anymore since then.
  8. The lens has been repaired by Tokina and is working fine again. Thanks everyone for the good advice!
  9. Looks like you were right. At 10mm the aperture doesn't seem to close properly. If I use the aperture lever to open the aperture, it remains stuck in that position. When zooming in just a little bit, the aperture blades do close just fine. Is this something that can easily be fixed (for a reasonable price) at a service center? I have zero experience with that.
  10. I know where the DOF button is. My question was more like: how do I use it to confirm whether there is indeed a mechanical problem or not?
  11. How do I test this? Can you explain in more detail?
  12. Hi, I've noticed several times now, that my images are very easily overexposed when I'm using the Tokina 10-17 at 10mm. Even with low iso (100), a fast shutter speed (1/320) and small aperture (f22), images are often over exposed, especially with sunburst close to the surface. But when zooming in just a little bit, like 10.5 or 11.0 mm the exposure (with the same settings) is completely different: almost completely dark! Is this expected? I understand that due to the wider angle of view, more light is captured, but I didn't anticpated such a drastic change. Do I miss something? Jef
  13. So that means trying to stay even more parallel to the surface. I'm not sure if that will be possible in practice. I was already so close to the surface, that with the camera in portrait direction, I already had to be careful not to breach the surface with the large domeport and accidentally turn it into a half-half shot. If the large field of view of the fisheye lens (180 degrees) is to blame, then I should get a better result if I had used the Tokina at the 17mm end (100 degrees), right? Would it be a good idea to use a 1.4x teleconverter to reduce the field of view? That will only underexpose (darken) the sky (or in my case the roof of the swimming pool) that is visible through Snell's window. It will not make it reflective.
  14. Hi, I have been experimenting with some creative model photography in the pool. One of the things we tried, was to shoot some nice reflections near the surface. With the right angle and a calm surface, it wasn't too difficult to capture a basic reflection. So far no problem, except that all my attempts have an area where you can still see through the surface, instead of the desired reflection. How do you get a full reflection over the entire photo? Is this effect maybe due to the fisheye lens I'm using? Does anyone have suggestions to reduce or even get rid of this effect? Nikon D7000, Tokina 10-17mm lens @10mm, ISO 100, 1/320, f/14. Two YS-110 strobes, one positioned above the surface and one below. Jef
  15. I can recommend the open source PhotoRec tool. It works very well, but it's not the most easy to use application. http://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/PhotoRec
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