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Everything posted by jefdriesen

  1. https://www.aquacam.nl/nl/flip-snoots/307-micro-mesh-dome-polish.html
  2. I assume you are referring to this video: https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/66364-wetpixel-live-macro-close-up-lenses/&do=findComment&comment=419877 That's about the UCL-90 and UCL-67, which are two different lenses.
  3. Yes, that was actually the reason for asking my question. There is quite some information out there on those newer lenses, but it's rather difficult to compare with those older Inons because there are no direct comparisons. According to the Inon specifications, the UCL-330 and UCL-165 are respectively +3 and +6 diopters. Is that on land, or also in water? I have no idea. How do they compare for example to a Subsee +5 or +10? Or even the much more expensive Nauticam SMC-1?
  4. Hi, I own the both the Inon UCL-165M67 and UCL-330M67 wet macro lenses. I bought those long time ago, for use with a compact camera. I now use a Nikon D7000 DSLR (DX) camera, and occasionally still use those Inon lenses (in combination with either the Nikon 60mm or 105mm). But I wonder how these compare to the newer macro lenses (Subsee, Nauticam, etc) that are available nowadays. Is it still worth buying one of those newer lenses? What can I expect from those? Higher magnification, better image quality? Jef
  5. I'm about to leave for a trip to Abu Dabbab in Egypt. With some luck we should be able to photograph sharks (Elphinstone) and dolphins (Sataya dolphin reef). Which lenses are the best option for those subjects? I normally use a Tokina 10-17 for wide-angle, but I wonder if that's too wide? I have absolutely no idea how close you can get. Should I add a 1.4 teleconverter for some extra reach, or is the range of Tokina alone sufficient? I also have a Sigma 10-20 which I bought very recently. But I wasn't able to get a zoom ring in time, so I can only used at a fixed angle. I also didn't have a chance to try it in the water yet. So I'm not sure if it's worth taking with me.
  6. Hi, I own two Sea & Sea YS-110. I have been very satisfied with them, and never had any problems with them. But after about 10+ years of use, one of the strobes died last year. So I'm looking for buying a new one. The two obvious candidates are the Sea & Sea YS-D2 and the Inon Z330. Since I have been using Sea & Sea's before, that would be my first choice. But then I read about issues about those strobes, and very positive things about the Inon Z330. Since I still have a functional YS-110 left, I prefer to continue using that (for cost reasons). Are there any downsides with using two completely different strobes? The color temperature are not the same for example. The Z330 has dome shaped front. Doesn't that make it more suitable for wide angle and less for macro work? I suppose it's also more easy to scratch? How about attaching a snoot? I made a home made fiber optic snoot for my YS-110. While I can still use my YS-110 for snoot work, someday it will die as well. And then I'll probably the same strobe as I'm going to buy now, to have a matching pair again. Jef
  7. Yes, but the question is do you notice the difference in practice? And if the answer is yes, is it worth the extra money or not? I'm considering buying one of these lenses, but I'm not really sure which one I should get.
  8. Darktable is a very nice alternative for lightroom. It's open source and works great for me. It used to be Linux only, but since last year there is a Windows version as well!
  9. Does the newer F3.5 version of this lens have any advantages over the older F4-5.6 version?
  10. A couple of hours is no problem. Just not days (or longer than necessary).
  11. I had the same problem a couple of years ago (with the exact same housing and port extension). I gently used the same rubber band trick (oil filter tool was too small). Since then I make sure to lube the oring every time and remove the extension ring immediatly after use. Never had the problem anymore since then.
  12. The lens has been repaired by Tokina and is working fine again. Thanks everyone for the good advice!
  13. Looks like you were right. At 10mm the aperture doesn't seem to close properly. If I use the aperture lever to open the aperture, it remains stuck in that position. When zooming in just a little bit, the aperture blades do close just fine. Is this something that can easily be fixed (for a reasonable price) at a service center? I have zero experience with that.
  14. I know where the DOF button is. My question was more like: how do I use it to confirm whether there is indeed a mechanical problem or not?
  15. How do I test this? Can you explain in more detail?
  16. Hi, I've noticed several times now, that my images are very easily overexposed when I'm using the Tokina 10-17 at 10mm. Even with low iso (100), a fast shutter speed (1/320) and small aperture (f22), images are often over exposed, especially with sunburst close to the surface. But when zooming in just a little bit, like 10.5 or 11.0 mm the exposure (with the same settings) is completely different: almost completely dark! Is this expected? I understand that due to the wider angle of view, more light is captured, but I didn't anticpated such a drastic change. Do I miss something? Jef
  17. So that means trying to stay even more parallel to the surface. I'm not sure if that will be possible in practice. I was already so close to the surface, that with the camera in portrait direction, I already had to be careful not to breach the surface with the large domeport and accidentally turn it into a half-half shot. If the large field of view of the fisheye lens (180 degrees) is to blame, then I should get a better result if I had used the Tokina at the 17mm end (100 degrees), right? Would it be a good idea to use a 1.4x teleconverter to reduce the field of view? That will only underexpose (darken) the sky (or in my case the roof of the swimming pool) that is visible through Snell's window. It will not make it reflective.
  18. Hi, I have been experimenting with some creative model photography in the pool. One of the things we tried, was to shoot some nice reflections near the surface. With the right angle and a calm surface, it wasn't too difficult to capture a basic reflection. So far no problem, except that all my attempts have an area where you can still see through the surface, instead of the desired reflection. How do you get a full reflection over the entire photo? Is this effect maybe due to the fisheye lens I'm using? Does anyone have suggestions to reduce or even get rid of this effect? Nikon D7000, Tokina 10-17mm lens @10mm, ISO 100, 1/320, f/14. Two YS-110 strobes, one positioned above the surface and one below. Jef
  19. I can recommend the open source PhotoRec tool. It works very well, but it's not the most easy to use application. http://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/PhotoRec
  20. While a vacuum system isn't 100% reliable, I'm convinced it's still more reliable than a simple bubble check. For two reasons: (1) if you see bubbles, you already have some water entering the housing, and your camera might already be ruined. The vacuum system will warn before any damage is done! (2) if the leak is so small that even the vacuum system can't detect it, then I'm pretty sure you won't see any bubbles either!
  21. Hi, Inspired by several of the homemade snoots here on wetpixel (1,2), I wanted to try and make one myself. I took my Sea & Sea YS-110 strobe to the hardware store, to find the necessary parts. The end result doesn't look too bad. So far I only tested on land, but the lighting is a bit disappointing. The loss of power is significant higher then I expected. Are there any tricks to reduce this power loss somewhat? I think this loss is partly due to the fact that the YS-110 has three flashtubes which are off-center, and slightly pointed outwards (for a wider beam I assume). So the light is fired in the wrong direction and not straight into the opening in the center. Also the part of the snoot that is attached to the strobe has an inner tube (see picture below) that might be blocking some of the light. Does anyone have ideas on how to improve my snoot? Jef
  22. I also miss the dot to jump immediately to the latest unread post. However when reading the forum on my Android phone, the dot is still there. So I guess this might be something theming related. @Adam: I don't see any link labelled "Go to the first unread post" either.
  23. I think the leds (or a gauge) are essential! How else do you know there is no leak? If you don't have any means to check the vacuum before entering the water, you also don't know if there is a leak. This probably saved my camera a while ago. I had vacuumed the system at home, and when I arrived at the dive spot, the Hugycheck showed a flashing red light. Upon closer inspection, the housing had completely de-pressurized again, which means a significant leak. Without that blinking red light, I would have entered the water without knowing anything and flooding the camera!
  24. The Hugycheck electronics contains a temperature sensor to take into account pressure changes due to temperature changes.
  25. I don't know which camera you use, but on my Nikon D7000 you can set the camera to CL (Continuous Low) and adjust the settings from 1 to 5 fps in the menu. Not as convenient as a dedicated button, but at least you can still switch.
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