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Brian McHugh

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Everything posted by Brian McHugh

  1. This first one was my favorites as I've been trying to capture this behavior all summer and finally got it. Sarcastic Fringehead showing off for his lady friend in La Jolla, California. This second one while not my best picture it was a lot of fun and reminds me of the very playful sea lions in La Paz, Baja California, Mexico.
  2. Thanks Steve, La Paz while similar in many respects to the northern Sea of Cortez does have some unique attractions particularly in the fall when the sea lions are off the charts play full and you have a chance to see whale sharks and dolphins. Its pretty convent to get to from San Diego through the Tijuana Airport, cheap flights around $200.00 round trip. Thanks Matt, that sail fin blenny was a tough one to get as I only got one shot at him after waiting for about 20 minutes for thin to do something interesting.
  3. A few shots from late last months trip to La Paz, Baja California Sur, Mexico. We had great conditions with very playful sea lions, bait balls, and whale sharks. More photos at my page: http://www.brian-mchugh-uwphoto.com
  4. Farnsworth is my favorite site in California. Nice shots! Brian
  5. Joe, Thanks, I did all the CFWA with a Sigma 17-70. The trip I went on was booked from Blue Water Photo in LA. I like going on their trips as it is all UW photogs. Brian
  6. Went out on the Peace, it was a Blue Water Photo trip. The best food on a dive boat in California.
  7. 1.4:1 is 140% of the image size, 1:2 is 50% of the image size. The 60 without the teleconverter does 1:1 or 100% of the image size. All of these are only applicable at the minimum focus distance and represent the maximum magnification you can achieve. You really will only notice the difference when photographing very small subjects, really the greatest difference you notice with the teleconverter is an increase in working distance making it easier to light and giving you the ability to get a little farther away from skittish creatures. The downside is that in murky water sometimes you want to get closer to minimize the subject to camera distance especially when the subject is not super small. The 60 with the teleconverter is really like having 2 lenses, a 60 and an 85 that you can switch out between dives.
  8. You are probably getting stray light from the internal strobe that is causing the reflection. You might try building a curtain that would fit around the lens and block stray light getting into the port area. Sometimes the zoom gears are enough to block the stray light.
  9. A few from my recent trip to Baja California Sur, Mexico. These shots were all taken at the islands outside of Loreto in the Sea of Cortez.
  10. I would keep your aperture up around f8 to keep the image sharper around the corners and be more forgiving on the focus. I shoot my D7000 at ISO 800 with minimal noise as long as you get the exposure decent. I would not hesitate to push the ISO to 1600 if needed to keep the shutter speed up.
  11. Pygmy Seahorse taken at Wakatobi last May. My first trip outside North America, will always be memorable. Nikon D7000, 60mm w/1.4x Teleconverter, 2 YS110a strobes
  12. If you are diving in murky water like Seatle I would suggest going with the 60mm as you will have more conditions that will produce decent shots. You have some great macro critters in the PNW. I love my Tokina but unless you have decent visibility your results will not be satisfactory. If you travel to warm clear water I would probably start out with the Tokina. Brian San Diego brian-mchugh-uwphoto.com
  13. I have not been able to get my strobes to sync via dsTTL and expose properly, although it worked fine on my previous camera (Olympus E-520). I pulled this off of B&H's site description for the D7000 housing: The YS converter/N is not currently compatible with the Nikon D7000 in a DSLR housing. The DS-TTL function on Sea&Sea's YS-110a and YS-01 strobes is not compatible with the Nikon D7000 due to the camera’s TTL system. Please use these strobes in manual mode. I know there was a firmware update on the strobes for the newer versions, mine were older versions purchased prior to the D7000's existance. Perhaps these newer strobes work in dsTTL? S&S recentley updated their electronic TTL converter to work with the D7000 as well as the previous version was incompatible. S&S still lists the dsTTL for the YS01 as incompatible but the newer YS-D1 as compatible via dsTTL2. It was unclear where the current YS110a falls in their list. Brian
  14. I've used the fiber optic cords on my S&S with the D7000 for about a year with no problems. They seem very durable to me and I beach dive most of the time. I just upgraded to electronic with the new TTL converter as my 110a strobes were not TTL compatible via fiber optics. If I had new newer strobes I would have stuck with the fiber optic triggers. Brian
  15. I've been using the Sea & Sea housing for the last year. I have one of the early production versions without a couple controls for shutter mode and flash compensation but I have not really missed them. I'm pretty happy with the housing and my only real criticism would be the spacing of the buttons for the paddle control as they are very close together and can't be reached from the handles. 1 year and about 70 dives with now problems. I would not hesitate to buy this housing again. I don't have any comparisons with the Nauticam or Aquatica housing but they look quite nice as well. Brian
  16. After a couple more dives on the housing I am very happy with my decision to get the pre-production version. I really see very little downside as the 'missing' controls are not needed at least for the photography that I do. A few more shots with the 60mm and 1.4x teleconverter.
  17. I believe it is the pre-production version but I'm not sure what the difference is with the production version. The pictures on the Sea & Sea website appear identical. The only functions you can't access are the flash compensation button, programable function button on the front, and the shutter mode dial. I don't know if the other housings have access to those features or not but I didn't feel I would ever need to have access to those either. I see no need for the shutter mode dial as the only time that shooting in continuos mode would be in ambient light conditions. The flash compensation is not really needed either as your strobes duplicate this functionality. Other than that all the controls look well thought out and are easily accessible. The ISO button is a flip lever on the side accessible from the left handle. Both the command dials are accessible from the right handle. The record function for video is accessed from the right handle via a flip lever. I think the ergonomics are very good and for the money a very good value. Since you already have the ports looks like an easy decision. Brian
  18. I just made my first dive with my new D7000 w/60mm lens in a Sea & Sea housing from the folks at Bluewater. I've upgraded from an Olympus E-520 in an Olympus housing. Probably the nicest feature I've found is that the aperture and shutter speed controls are easily accessible from the handle. This is something I could not do with my old housing. Still have lots to learn about the settings on the camera and need to get the metering accurate with the 110a strobes. I think this is a good housing option that is competitive both in options and price with the others. A couple of my first photos from La Jolla, CA. Brian San Diego, CA
  19. I would check two things: what is your flash setting (make sure its not 1/64th or something very light, check that your fiber optic cable is not broken ( the ends sometimes need to be trimmed or clipped off if they are broken inside they will not fire consistently. Brian
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