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Isaac Szabo

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Isaac Szabo last won the day on January 24

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About Isaac Szabo

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    Freshwater photography

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    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sony A6500

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  1. Thanks Chris. If I had the monitor housing in hand, I could easily figure it out. But I'm trying to design and 3D print a hood for a friend who doesn't live near me, and I was trying to save him a trip to the hardware store to try out different screws. Getting conformation that it is a metric thread is helpful. With that information, I can probably figure it out by getting him to measure the diameter of the hole.
  2. Does anyone happen to know the thread size of the screws for securing the hood to the monitor housing on Nauticam NA-501/502 housings?
  3. Oh sorry, I misinterpreted your posts as if he didn't respond to either of your PMs and you hadn't been able to get through to him at all.
  4. Have you tried emailing him (info@stephenfrink.com)? He replied to me quickly that way when I had a question for him about another item.
  5. Thanks for the info, Phil! It looks like the 28-60mm + CMC-1 is capable of producing really good results. It's helpful for me to get confirmation that it has such a limited range of focus and thus wouldn't be a full replacement for a macro lens (for me at least). Still, it's an intriguing setup, and I may pick up the 28-60mm and and close-up lens at some point (I already have the WWL-1).
  6. Hi Phil. I've been following your posts and am intrigued by the small size of the A7c as well as the versatility of the 28-60mm with WWL-1 and close-up lenses. I've never used a close-up lens, but my understanding is that you only get a narrow range of focus with them? If that's the case, do you have an estimate for how much range of focus there was with the 28-60mm at 60mm with the CMC-1?
  7. Ah, that makes sense. The WWL-1 with the new 28-60mm is an intriguing option. I look forward to your review.
  8. Phil, I value your wealth of valuable information. However, I will note that the WWL-1 does indeed work for full frame with the Sony 28mm f/2. I have that setup myself and know a number of people who also use it.
  9. No worries, Lewis! You didn't didn't miss anything. I hadn't posted that information until after your post.
  10. As mentioned in my previous reply, I’m only doing shallow stream snorkeling (less than 6ft), so I’m not dealing with extreme pressure. I have tested my parts to a pressure equivalent to around 25ft using a vacuum pump, so I feel that I have a pretty good safety margin for my needs. If you were to try to make 3D printed pressure bearing parts for diving depths, obviously you would have to do the appropriate tests with a vacuum pump/chamber or by bringing the parts down to diving depths without anything valuable inside.
  11. I am using a Prusa i3 MK3 and have printed watertight parts out of ABS, PETG, and PC. As I'm sure you know, FDM prints are not watertight using stock settings. However, they can be made watertight by adjusting the slicer settings so that you end up with a completely solid print. The three main things I do to accomplish that are: print at a small layer height (0.10mm), increase the number of perimeters until there is no infill, and over-extrude enough to fill in the tiny gaps that are normally present between lines/layers of deposited filament (i.e. increase the extrusion multiplier by around 10-20%). Another issue is the o-ring grooves, which will not be perfectly smooth due to the layer lines. So for those I print them slightly over-sized and then coat them in a layer of epoxy. I have no experience using a composite filament like carbon fiber filled nylon and don't know whether or not the tiny fibers inside the plastic would make it more difficult to achieve watertight parts. Back when I was trying to figure out how to do this, I had considered printing the parts normally and then coating the outer surface in a waterproof layer of epoxy. However, as you allude to, one of my concerns was that the surface could get worn/scratched over time and develop leaks. So I settled on making the whole structure watertight, not just the surface. And as a disclaimer, I should note that so far I have only tested these parts at home with a vacuum pump and in a tub of water. All indications are that they are sufficient for my needs, but I haven't yet used them in the field. Also, I'm only doing shallow water stream snorkeling, and nearly all of my photography is done in water less than 6ft deep. Obviously, parts designed for diving depths would probably need to be designed more robustly and would definitely need to go through more extreme pressure testing.
  12. No problem! Wikipedia has a few tables with useful information on the Nikonos/RS lenses: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikonos#Lenses. I don't know of any data on the corner sharpness of those 2 lenses, but I know there are numerous reports of the RS 13mm having very good sharpness. On the other hand, I haven't found much information on the performance of the Sea&Sea 12mm. I picked up the Sea&Sea 12mm around a year ago but hadn't gotten around to putting together a full frame setup to utilize it until now. As for the adapter, I actually made my own with my 3D printer.
  13. I'm glad you got one. That's a great piece of glass from what I hear. If I were using a Nikon DSLR, that's probably what I would be using too. As for the Sea&Sea 12mm, I haven't fully tested it yet (just a few test shots in a tub at home), so I'll have to get back to you on that. But I can say that with a FOV of 167°, it is much wider than the Nikonos 15mm, which has a FOV of only 94° and as you noticed is really the equivalent of a 20mm. The Nikon R-UW 13mm that you just ordered has a FOV of 170° (essentially the same as the Sea&Sea 12mm).
  14. Keh has a copy of the 13mm available. And there are around a half dozen available on eBay, though they're all from out of the country (mainly Japan). The 12mm is harder to find. I have a copy but am not wanting to sell it at the moment.
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