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String last won the day on May 7 2020

String had the most liked content!

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About String

  • Rank
    Moray Eel

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Khao Lak, Thailand

Additional Info

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  • Camera Model & Brand
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ikelite DS161s
  • Accessories
    mini domes, macro, ports etc etc etc

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  1. I've used both. Started with a 10-22 then moved to the 10-17. As above the FOV is much better with the 10-17 and its a useful zoom range. Very nice close focus too. The 10-22 as well i found no matter what size dome or aperture i used the corners were always soft. Much more so than the Tokina. The only thing the 10-22 "wins" at is it displays less chromatic aberration but this is something easily addressed with a single click in post so i dont class it as a bonus. Since getting the 10-17 i never went back to the 10-22. For me its a far superior lens. The only issue i can think of is maybe if you're doing things with lots of straight lines or in a pool where the curvature of the 10-17 is noticeable and distracting.
  2. Last time i tried to fix my acrylic dome i ended up gouging and putting a flat spot on it and having to buy a new one completely. Got an obvious scratch on this one too and not sure i want to risk physically destroying a 2nd one to get it out.
  3. I tried that - i only see "Update all thumbnails" in a right click popup on the clips on the color page. I dont get the same option on the edit page. (and selecting it on the color page doesnt seem to do anything).
  4. Im in the process of switching from Premiere to Resolve so in a steep learning curve currently. One likely basic problem i cant solve is the thumbnail or filmstrip previews in the timeline (Edit or cut page) all display without my colour correcting and grading showing. The timeline viewer itself shows the corrected video and the images in the colour page all look fine. Reason im asking this is im putting together u/w videos which obviously pre correction all look the same (well the ambient shots) as in green/blue and faded so makes it really hard to get an overview of the actual edit structure by looking at them. So is there any way to get the filmstrip thumbnails to update with the current colour corrections? Ive tried things like "update all thumbnails", manually caching and so on but nothing seems to change it. Am i missing something glaringly obvious here? Its Resolve v18 fwiw.
  5. I didnt realise Aquaphot would do them. Might be worth an email.
  6. Just curious if anyone has ever rebuilt an Ikelite DS160/161 battery pack? Both of mine are now taking an age to recycle and charge and will stop completely soon. Im not too keen on paying £200 each for new packs so wondering if anyone has managed to rebuilt their own just using cells bought elsewhere? These are the NiMH version not the Li-Ions. I can see the screws to get into them but wondered if anyone has successfully done this and if so, was it hard and what cells were needed?
  7. 4 dives a day on a liveaboard for work where even the fresh water isnt that "fresh" for 7 months of the year so it get s a *lot* of use. Camera passed to/from the boat and generally dumped by a busy boat crew before and after dives as they try to handle everything so things get banged. Main problems ive found are the dissimilar metals cause the electrical bulkhead plug to rapidly fuse to the socket even with regular maintenance. I know at least 3 people all have had this issue with Ikelite cables welding themselves onto the socket and only being removable with a saw. That last one that did it to me was after 3 days (cancelled boat, camera left on boat in a rush). Ive also had 2 hotshoe wires break due to the angle they sit and strain/bend inside the house. In addition the connector block between the hot shoe wires and sockets has a tendency of slipping apart if the housing is banged on entry etc at times. Its a really flimsy design. Had 1 set of wires break somewhere inside the glued on connector that feeds the socket as well. Sync cords themselves are roughly 11 years old. One has now broken but the other way working but is glued completely to the bulkhead socket. It cant be removed without cutting. I'd rather get to a stage where the fibre cable is the only real point of failure and replacing that wont involve saws or complete strobe failure on dives (ie fixable on a dive boat without a soldering iron).
  8. I forgot to add its a Nautican EOS70D housing (so DSLR, has 2 optical connectors). I can use the pop up flash for now to trigger.
  9. Just after come confirmation here. Ive got 2 x DS160 Ikelite strobes on a nauticam housing. They're currently electrically triggered via a bulkhead connector but i really want to move away from this. After 3 broken hotshoe connectors, 1 snapped wiring in the socket itself and 2 x sync cables welded onto the bulkhead (dissimilar metals...) ive decided its time to go optical. I know i need 2 of these ( https://www.ikelite.com/products/fiber-optic-converter-for-ds-strobes-3rd-gen ) but what cord am i going to need to connect to those and into the Nauticam housing on the other end of this (ive never used optical in my life). From what i can see there are different standards for connectors. The two listed on the ikelite for nauticam ( # 26212 and 26211) appear discontinued. Will 2 of these do the job? ( https://www.nauticam.co.uk/universal-fiber-optic-cable/ ) In short, is there anything else i need to convert this setup to optical triggering?
  10. From personal experience id say even a low lumen constant light has MUCH more of an effect on marine life than a strobe. Even something dim like a 3,000 lumen lots of marine life actively distances itself from you or turns away. 10,000+ is significantly worse. With a strobe, although its much more powerful its over very quickly. I suspect some animals simply dont even see the flash - theres no reaction at all (lionfish, bannerfish, barracuda etc). Some clearly DO see it and blink (turtles octopus, cuttlefish etc) but do not turn away or try to leave the area. I guess its like a person, take a photo of me with a camera flash its unlikely to annoy me. But shine a really bright light constantly in my face and im far more likely to get annoyed or turn away.
  11. Surely a lot of that is personal preference. Some like colour, some don't. Depends on the viewer. Personally i've never yet seen a B&W image or video that i didn't think "i bet this would look so much better in colour" but i fully understand there are people who feel the exact opposite.
  12. Actually should clarify i mean for non uw use. Adapted lenses generally all seem to suffer in terms of AF speed and accuracy the longer the focal length. On all the ones ive tried (sony and canon systems) at 400m the AF performance is fairly dire compared to native without an adaptor. I know its not an issue underwater but like i said, for me i ideally need one system to cover both.
  13. Ive never used those (or seen them in the wild in fact). Experience the above-mentioned Sony models and the Eos R. The AF issues with adapted lenses are another issue for me - combine that with EVF lag and above water sport and wildlife is tricky.
  14. Its totally different from the 80D sadly (joystick etc). I bought it in the hope that a housing would be made. I know Ikelite and some have them but i dont want to go there. I may have made an expensive gamble. Ultimately my underwater setup currently is a dated 70D so no 4k video and other things so in bad need of an upgrade but as of yet there isnt really anything on the market i can use for underwater AND surface sensibly. The 90D hybrid isnt really that - it superimposes a lot of data but the view itself is still optical. You need liveview for video and other features. Id *love* a camera i could take video by looking through the viewfinder which mirrorless does as holding a DSLR steady and having to look at the back LCD screen is difficult. I still cant accept the lag in an EVF for sport/wildlife shooting on land. As i said, i havent tried an A9 or A7m4 but the others i have tried still to me had distracting and noticeable latency.
  15. This is the problem, as they themselves admitted, its not based on any evidence the masks actually do that at all (and no research into harmful unexpected results such as potentially increased risk of infection due to incorrect use and adhering). The CDC is a massive outlier here, i dont know another major body recommending masks (nor making recommendations that aren't based on any science what-so-ever). Its very odd for them to do such a thing and does hint a bit of desperation. In short, there is no data to suggest "my mask protects you" and also no data showing "my mask doesn't make me more prone to disease than no mask". Both of which are pretty important. ...and getting back to the original point. The website that is ultimately "fake news". Ultimately it makes claims that are demonstrably untrue, selectively edits the data to try to fit its conclusion and offers no scientific backing. Its worth than nothing. Its possible to have sensible debate of the actual science but that website is nothing of the sort. Its a screaming hysteria site with absolutely no basis in science or fact. Its misleading and potentially dangerous.
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