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String

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Everything posted by String

  1. Glad of that! I thought it would - as i said, the only reason i didn't bother myself is because i upgraded the housing. That and the last time i tried to do it myself on another port i own i made such a mess of it i had to send it to a professional to do properly! I still get nervous selling anything with a "defect" no matter how hard you try to highlight it to potential buyers! Also a bump, the other items are still available and as an added bonus, they dont need micro-mesh!
  2. Update.. The MINI DOME has now been sold. The 8" dome and flat port remain available.
  3. The issue is i already have 1 x V6K (non pro) so just need one extra. I found the pro significantly heavier and bulkier for travel and hard to fit with my already excessive baggage.
  4. Ive upgraded my housing so have some older Ikelite stuff to sell. Please note these are all for the FL (Four Lock) system NOT the newer mechanisms. All of which have been used for several years or more, all of which work. Reason for selling is i went for Nauticam. All items are located in the UK. First item:- Ikelite 8" Dome #5510.45 (https://www.ikelite.com/products/modular-8-dome-for-dlm-and-fl-port-systems) Bought in roughly 2009, saw use for 3 or 4 years before being retired and replaced with a minidome. Used semi-occasionally for split shots since then but otherwise gathering dust. It comes with the neoprene cover. Also included is the Ikelite extension port #5510.22 ( https://www.ikelite.com/products/fl-port-extension-for-lenses-up-to-4-125-inches) for Nikon 12-24 / Canon 10-22 and similar zooms The dome itself has the usual cosmetic marks consistent with use. The exterior has a few small marks on the acrylic as expected but these do not show on the images or videos. Normal surface wear only. Looking for £200gbp or rough equivalent for the dome, extension and cover Item 2:- Ikelite Flat Port Next up is a Ikelite FL flat port #5502.41 (https://www.ikelite.com/products/fl-flat-port-for-lenses-up-to-4-1-inches) for macro lenses up to about 60mm Again shows marks and some dust as per use. Optically no issues or marks at all on the surface. Does NOT have a neoprene cover Looking for £75gbp or equivalent. Item 3: 5" precision minidome for Tokina 10-17 This is a 5" precision mini-dome designed by UWCamera stuff solely for the Tokina 10-17 lens. Part number:- Prec-5in-Tok-ike It can be seen here:- http://www.uwcamerastuff.com/precision_5_dome.htm This was my go-to dome and used for 95%+ of my photography. As a result it shows signs of usage. (The photos also show dust from the cupboard). [/img] [/img] Please note the above photo:- It DOES have a scratch on the front which IS visible in photos and video, particularly areas of blue water etc. Its not that bad (i used it for months like that) but to get rid of it you'd need some nova polish/wet and dry and do the standard acrylic port polishing to remove it. I didn't bother because i could live with it and had no source of materials to polish it where i was based. Please be aware of this - i've gone out of my way to highlight it as much as possible in this image. All of these are exterior surface, internal is fine and has no markings. It comes with the neoprene port cover, shade and so on. It has the Ikelite 5510.11 port extension with it to fit the Tokina 10-17. Looking in the region of £100gbp for it or equivalent. All items are located in the UK, postage can be calculated if needed depending on where the buyer is. I will sell separately or as a package. If you want all 3 i can charge less. Also, not listed but if anyone is interested in a well used Ikelite 70D housing to go with these let me know - i have that too and can work something out.
  5. As above, interested in a V6K non-pro ideally but will consider pro otherwise. I already have one and am after a second. Currently im in the UK but will be back in Asia in a month or so.
  6. I do label the inside of the housing but the outside would be handy (im not even sure people would know how to equalise then open my housing for example!). Also occasionally there are multiple housings of the same type in the same place.
  7. Actually not. In most places worldwide you're going to find the Alfa flag has protection and guidelines whereas the USN one does not. Especially in terms of incident fault, insurance and so on. Its something the US exported worldwide but isnt a full international standard. You see it in lots of places purely because of US marketing/customerbase and so on - its recognised by customers. Either way, im buying stickers (and dive gear!) without the thing!
  8. Thanks for those, i'll try one or maybe both listed to see which works best. Going to email to customise because ive got an irrational hatred of the USN dive flag (i wish they'd use legally recognised standard A flag like everyone else!). More importantly, i might need 2 sets as i want my name and email/phone number on stickers.
  9. This is stretching the definition of photo gear so mods feel free to move if needed... Does anyone know of a source (ideally UK or fast uk delivery) of labels that i can use to stick on the *outside* of my housing (nauticam) with my name and email and/or phone number so i can identify it (as well as other people)? Ive seen people with all kinds of dive gear including houses labelled with small, seemingly tough, sticky printed labels about the size of the old school Dymo machines but my google-fu has failed me and i cant find them. I guess im searching for the wrong term or something. Im looking for thin, smallish strips that are printed with my details i can stick onto the housing in places that obviously wont come off or fade the second they're immersed.
  10. A few observations with mine. I often prepare in a 20c room then dive in water 28 to 31c after that. I also sometimes have the housing (accidentally) in direct sun in the tropics. I've never had the vacuum fail or a warning when going to or from these environments. It is very sensitive though. It picked up a hair on an O ring in about 20 mins and triggered after a few hours when my electrically connected ikelite strobe minus the battery (which was charging) created a tiny leak path through the cable and strobe. So I think the circuit may well be temperature compensated or similar. It seems to behave with environmental changes but still very sensitive to actual leaks. Sent from my BTV-DL09 using Tapatalk
  11. A work colleague of mine had one die after 20 dives 2 weeks. Just refuses to fire but looks like it is (charging whine, LEDs etc) I think his replacement when he eventually sourced one is ok. Sent from my BTV-DL09 using Tapatalk
  12. Slight not so good update? The V6K has died after a few months. It went off mid dive (on the lowest variable power). Battery is fine, charger is fine. Turning it on the button LED comes on but the light doesn't. Pressing to select the power gives the usual green light around the button but no light emerges from the head. So sadly I've had to take it back to KL who then send it away to the manufacturer to see if it's a warranty item out not. Which means no video for the remainder of the dive season here. I know random failures can happen to any device but it's disappointing none-the-less. I'm hoping they honour the warranty at it's only about 4 months old (and not flooded etc). Sent from my BTV-DL09 using Tapatalk
  13. I know it's an age old question but thought I'd bring it up again... Basically, with murky water, do strobe diffusers make backscatter worse or better? I've been trying to work it out and test myself with no clear answer. I'm using 2 X DS160 ikelites so are fairly powerful and also have a nice, big, circular flash bulb unlike some of the others. Shooting WA with a 10-17 tokina. Ultimately I am finding I get far more backscatter around the edges with diffusers than I do without. The obvious downside is the trickier positioning needed to not leave centre shadows. When I put the supplied manufacturers diffusers on the edge backscatter seems to increase. I also lose over 2 stops of light which means I need a near full power dump for a diver sized subject located a metre away (I know, get closer but divers don't always allow it!). I assume edge lighting drastically reduces the light put on the subject? I've also got the ikelite dome diffusers but finding backscatter is even worse with these. Using standard 9-3 or 10-2 strobes with the head roughly in line with the handles. Positioned straight ahead (or out slightly if close) and arms about the subject to dome distance apart. Subjects roughly 1m or less from the camera. So I'm just wondering what are people views for diffuser Vs non diffuser for murkier water? Is my technique drastically wrong to be getting more scatter on the edges with them or not? Or more in general what are peoples recommendations for wide angle in murky water? (I have to dive Myanmar a lot where 2-3m of dark, green, sediment full water is the norm) I've done hundreds of dives experimenting here but still have issues. I'm finding none is better, everything I'm reading online says the opposite so possibly is a technique problem. The 2+ stops light loss is an issue too preventing multiple shots in a short time. Any thoughts? Sent from my BTV-DL09 using Tapatalk
  14. Was just about to post this but got beaten to it. Its a limited study (seahorses only) but does dispel a lot of the myths surrounding it and the non-scientific approach to lighting bans. It does tend to support my theory that a lot of the bans (such as Malapascua Thresher Shark dives) have no basis in real world fact or science and are simply made up. Ive been looking (without success) to find any research providing justification for the Malapascua ban (and the unofficial Mola limitations imposed by dive centres in Lembongan etc).
  15. Thats all well and good but if you're over a few metres depth then typically a correctly white balanced photo or video means the water column loses most of its blue colour so looks washed out if you arent using a filter.
  16. I think it varies with strobes at least. From my experience, most marine life seems to see and hate a bright video light in their face. Pretty much all the subjects i point one at visibly recoil or shy away (i dont do macro though). With strobes its a little different, im fairly sure some types of marine life cant actually see the flash because its so fast and theres no reaction at all whereas others clearly do and do blink or recoil. For example Cephalopods such as Octopus and Cuttlefish visibly blink and sometimes recoil when a strobe fires. Turtles also. Whereas Triggerfish Lionfish, Parrotfish, Lobster and other reef fish seem to have no reaction what-so-ever. Edit:- just noticed the year. I thought this thread was a few months old not a year and a few months!
  17. Agreed. I think photographers (i mean proper ones, who know and understand the concepts, NOT the GoPro on a 5ft selfie stick people) are generally less damaging than normal divers. Yes we have some idiots among us and yes some arent as ethical as we like but as a whole i say its above average awareness. I work on liveaboards and its depressing every day to see the sheer amount of bad divers cause damage and allowed to do so by equally as bad guides. I see knee protectors, most wearing gloves, people walking across the bottom, zero awareness of fins and so on. I see large chunks of remaining coral kicked and snapped off in real time on a regular basis. So while yes, a code of conduct and ethics for photos is fine, unfortunately i think its a tiny issue compared with the absolte battering the reefs in asia are getting on a daily basis from huge numbers of inept divers escorted by equally as inept "guides". Theres also the national parks issue allowing gloves, knee pads, divers at OW level or a small number of dives etc into the park in the first place. That said, some so called advanced with 400 divers are worse than a 4 dive OW diver at times. Ive got a growing collection of images and videos as a wall-of-shame type gallery but no way can i make it public as im fairly sure i wouldnt be able to work in this town any more!
  18. Depends if you want desktop or laptop. You can get a much higher spec desktop for the same price but the obvious downside is its not portable. Generally speaking for decent editing you're going to want a decent i7 or higher CPU (8th gen or newer for h265), 16gb or more of ram and a nice big, fast SSD. In addition a good quality screen and colour calibrator (dont bother with touch or 4k, gimmicks and not useful for video editing). A dedicated graphics card is helpful, especially if you're dealing with effects as well. If not, its mainly CPU used for actual rendering so although nice its not the most important thing. Most gaming laptops will meet those requirements as the actual demands aren't all that different. I used to use a 2016 15" Alienware R3 laptop and it handled everything without issue. I managed to kill that so now using a Dell XPS15 which also handles it well with the added benefit of being MUCH smaller and lighter with significantly better battery life. I put a 1TB SSD into it instead of the supplied smaller one. Flies through both HD editing from my DSLR and 4k from my drone. Personally i wouldn't touch apple as you don't get a lot of value for money regarding the spec (you can get a better spec PC for less money). And its the same software (Da Vinci, Premiere, Lightroom, After Effects, Photoshop etc) unless for some reason you insist on FCP.
  19. Thats interesting - tell me more. I cant see any mention on dealers websites etc.
  20. Can anyone suggest tutorials or methods of colour correcting underwater video using Premiere Pro CC? Im familiar with photography and Photoshop/LR for editing where i can simple for example correct water by just sampling it with the HSL dropper and dragging down luminance, hue etc There seems to be no equivalent Premiere system that i can find for editing such as editing a single colour. I've read around and it seems to suggest using the HSL Secondary but despite a long time of trying ive never been able to get an adequate selection to perform a similar task without artefacts being clear or bits of the water missed entirely. So what is the standard technique used for removing a colour cast or say darkening blues and so on ? Its easy on stills but seems very very hard on video.
  21. To me it looks like standard TTL failing. As the ambient is quite bright its not firing the strobe enough to put any sort of light or colour back in. Its a fairly common failing of TTL - it just tries to get a good exposure. It has no idea the purpose of underwater is to block out a lot of ambient and overpower it with strobe. You really need to shoot manual where you can set these things for yourself. Automatic TTL modes from my experience always underfire the strobe and create washed out images on wide angle like this.
  22. Watching this too.... I know what im doing with PS/LR but Premiere has nothing in common!
  23. Im looking for advice of recommended white balance strategies for filming using video lights. Im primarily a photographer so have a good grasp of the theory there but obviously video is different (less light, no RAW etc). I currently have a V6K (12000 lumen) single video light and primarily testing wide angle subjects, diving in the tropics. What is the best option for getting a sensible white balance with this type of setup? I did experiment setting the colour temperature of my lights as a white balance but havent found the results there great - far too green and washed out. Is this simply because the light isnt powerful enough ? Im getting far better results on auto and the deeper i go, the better it is (i guess due to less ambient light getting in the way,again, is this just a lack of power)? Is there any merit in trying to take a manual white balance via a grey card or slate with the light on and using that? Last time i tried that i had some very odd colour shift and results so maybe its my technique? Im aware for wide angle i really need 2 lights for coverage and 12,000 isn't overly powerful which wont help but basically im looking for advice on the right technique to get a decent white balance on the video.
  24. Ive got 1 x V6K (non pro) and have done a few trips with it. My previous light was a sola 3000 fwiw. From my initial observations, the light appears solid and well made, battery life is roughly as advertised as is burn time. The beam seems even with no obvious hot and cold spots. From flat the recharge time seems to be 2 hours or so. I did look at the Pro version but for me the weight was substantially more and i dont need that extra burn time as i can charge inbetween dives and arent using it for long extended periods. The smaller size and significantly less weight won it for me. I got mine from Prestiege Scuba (Nauticam Malaysia) in Kuala Lumpur. Thai import tax and duty for anything electronic is ludicrous so its often cheaper to fly to KL or singapore and buy there.
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