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Everything posted by String

  1. From personal experience id say even a low lumen constant light has MUCH more of an effect on marine life than a strobe. Even something dim like a 3,000 lumen lots of marine life actively distances itself from you or turns away. 10,000+ is significantly worse. With a strobe, although its much more powerful its over very quickly. I suspect some animals simply dont even see the flash - theres no reaction at all (lionfish, bannerfish, barracuda etc). Some clearly DO see it and blink (turtles octopus, cuttlefish etc) but do not turn away or try to leave the area. I guess its like a person, take a photo of me with a camera flash its unlikely to annoy me. But shine a really bright light constantly in my face and im far more likely to get annoyed or turn away.
  2. Surely a lot of that is personal preference. Some like colour, some don't. Depends on the viewer. Personally i've never yet seen a B&W image or video that i didn't think "i bet this would look so much better in colour" but i fully understand there are people who feel the exact opposite.
  3. Actually should clarify i mean for non uw use. Adapted lenses generally all seem to suffer in terms of AF speed and accuracy the longer the focal length. On all the ones ive tried (sony and canon systems) at 400m the AF performance is fairly dire compared to native without an adaptor. I know its not an issue underwater but like i said, for me i ideally need one system to cover both.
  4. Ive never used those (or seen them in the wild in fact). Experience the above-mentioned Sony models and the Eos R. The AF issues with adapted lenses are another issue for me - combine that with EVF lag and above water sport and wildlife is tricky.
  5. Its totally different from the 80D sadly (joystick etc). I bought it in the hope that a housing would be made. I know Ikelite and some have them but i dont want to go there. I may have made an expensive gamble. Ultimately my underwater setup currently is a dated 70D so no 4k video and other things so in bad need of an upgrade but as of yet there isnt really anything on the market i can use for underwater AND surface sensibly. The 90D hybrid isnt really that - it superimposes a lot of data but the view itself is still optical. You need liveview for video and other features. Id *love* a camera i could take video by looking through the viewfinder which mirrorless does as holding a DSLR steady and having to look at the back LCD screen is difficult. I still cant accept the lag in an EVF for sport/wildlife shooting on land. As i said, i havent tried an A9 or A7m4 but the others i have tried still to me had distracting and noticeable latency.
  6. This is the problem, as they themselves admitted, its not based on any evidence the masks actually do that at all (and no research into harmful unexpected results such as potentially increased risk of infection due to incorrect use and adhering). The CDC is a massive outlier here, i dont know another major body recommending masks (nor making recommendations that aren't based on any science what-so-ever). Its very odd for them to do such a thing and does hint a bit of desperation. In short, there is no data to suggest "my mask protects you" and also no data showing "my mask doesn't make me more prone to disease than no mask". Both of which are pretty important. ...and getting back to the original point. The website that is ultimately "fake news". Ultimately it makes claims that are demonstrably untrue, selectively edits the data to try to fit its conclusion and offers no scientific backing. Its worth than nothing. Its possible to have sensible debate of the actual science but that website is nothing of the sort. Its a screaming hysteria site with absolutely no basis in science or fact. Its misleading and potentially dangerous.
  7. I actually bought a 90D and its a good little camera. Not high end for sure but a big upgrade over my 70D (I just wish there was a nauticam housing....). Maybe im different but i do above and below water photography and for ease of accessories, travel weight, spares and so on really want the same gear to use in both for some commonality. On the surface at least, mirrorless AF still lags behind a dedicated sensor. There's also the issue that most (all?) mount adaptors tend to drastically affect the AF speed and accuracy the more you get into longer focal lengths. So for me at least, sport and wildlife wise where most of it is through L glass at longer lengths, mirrorless simply isnt going to be useful for me yet. I like APS-C for the above (combined with the resolution of the 90D) for the reach it gives me. Admittedly i haven't tried an A9 or A74 but i absolutely hate the EVF for tracking sport or wildlife. The A72 was unusable completely, the A73 still feels laggy to me and isn't a pleasant usage experience. Again i can see an upside to EVF but also downsides. Underwater probably more pros than cons, surface not so much. If i was doing underwater *only* they im fairly sure id go full frame mirrorless but as i need a setup to both, that isnt a useful option for me currently. At least not yet. My setup is a compromise, not absolutely perfect for underwater but good enough. The other way around would significantly hamper my above-water ability.
  8. ...which actually admits there is no evidence or studies to the efficacy of masks at all. They're honest enough about it. (Its surprising to see a recommendation based on no peer reviewed evidence into (i) bemefit and (ii) potentially harmful unexpected effects from a major world body though. This puts them massively out of step with just about everywhere else). CDC is basically saying "We know asymptomatic carriers are everywhere due to new research" (this much is true) but then says wear a cloth mask where no studies at all have been done to see if they have any positive effects or if so outweigh the actual negative effects.
  9. I would caution that nothing on that site seems to list ANY scientific evidence at all yet claims "scientific evidence". Alarm bells should be flashing. I uses a chart claiming "MASK USE!!" for some countries that have controlled this while ignoring (i) they embarked on mass testing, rapid tracing and isolation and (ii) some of the countries there actually had big fines FOR wearing a mask in public without being sick. Its misleading at best, deliberately deceiving would be another term.... When you dig around the mainstream media stuff it cites, it leads to NO peer reviewed articles on it. It's also worth noting in its change of policy the CDC itself admitted there is no research on mask efficiency. There are some (unreviewed studies) on distance of droplets travelling but crucially *none* showing the efficacy of masks to reduce or change this. They admit this - its a recommendation based more on a hunch and guess than actual evidence. All the research that HAS been done is in a clinical environment. Thats very different to average people on the street. There is evidence that masks, especially cloth masks can INCREASE the risk of infections due to moisture and pathogen trapping, this combined by a non clinical (untrained people touching them, sliding them on and off etc) can transfer infections. From the ECDC tehnical report 26/3:- NCBI paper in 2015 found: There are 20+ references off this and a further 40 from the ECDC on about this. Actually, peer reviewed data. So i'd be VERY cautious of this website as it contains *no* scientific validation, cherry picks outcomes from charts whilst (i) invented things about mask use and (ii) ignoring ACTUAL mitigation factors performed. A few mistruths from that site:- There is no data what-so-ever anywhere to suggest we "know" that. No verified peer review model published out there suggests anything of the sort. Is demonstrably untrue using the data on their own site! I could go on tearing apart each claim but you get the point, in normal times this website would be banned for unaccirate or misleading medical claims and advertising in many countries. Ultimately if you do decide to wear a cloth mask, be aware that you could easily increase the risk of infections generally so it should be sterilised and washed certainly after each and every use, ideally every time you touch it bare hands. Otherwise you maybe creating a bigger problem than the one you're trying to solve.
  10. Local store isnt really an option where i am in Thailand as there are none. All would involve multi hour trips to a city and back and even then the chances of them understanding what i need are slim! Its a genuine, newly bought Nauticam housing so the parts themselves should all be Nauticam. Its the reducer thing i need really as without that i cant screw the handle down.
  11. I've got a Nauticam housing for my Canon EOS 70D and in the process of reconfiguring it slightly and have lost some original bits. Currently i have a ball mount for a gopro mounted which i want to remove. The problem is, removing this requires some sort of reducer and screw to complete the housing setup but im unable to find the name (or part numbers) i need. This is the mounting hole with the ball removed. The other side has a reducer of some sort and screw as can be seen here:- Basically im after the name and/or part numbers of these items (reducer thingy and screw so can order them and remove the unneeded ball mount.
  12. Cardiff specifically, Doha and other places they didnt care less. I was 7.2kg, had to lose 200grams (and then unknown to them collect the other 7kg id left with relatives outside the check-in area....
  13. Qatar Airlines from Cardiff ruthlessly enforced hand baggage to the gram. The other one now is all flights at KLIA2 (so Air Asia main hub) they now weigh after checking and before immigration. I end up wearing 2 pairs of shorts and hiking trousers with stuffed pockets every single time going through there now as a result.
  14. We go there roughly once a month (OK less this year due to the crazy myanmar visa price and new $1000 per boat fee they've introduced!). Myanmar can be highly variable. Typically 3-5m vis and green, sometimes the Mantas are around Black rock (and the Twins), sometimes not. Once a year in roughly February they seem to congregate for a few days in large numbers then vanish (this video was shot over a period of 3 days/12 dives - normally we do 1 day at black rock but customers kept voting to stay so we did). As far as IDs go, we had 50 different individual mantas on this particular trip and yes, I submit to Manta Matcher). Unusually the vis was 15m+ and blue water as opposed to 5m of green as well. The following year we only had 1 day of Manta madness there but got 20 different IDs over 4 dives, the next day there they'd all gone. This time though they were breaching, sometimes as 1s, sometimes as pairs so behaviour was completely different. What was interesting is both seasons we didn't have the same manta on more than 1 dive so that hints there's a very large number of them moving through the area. A lot of the Manta IDs came back as new but several had been seen at Koh Bon / Similans several years previously. Also some of the ones we get in the Similans come back as being at Black Rock and further north so they clearly move around a lot over several years.
  15. I can see both sides of the coin as im a photographer (or claim to be) and also a guide. Personally when ive got my full camera setup in photographer mode i would NOT want to guide me. No matter how much i try to be a good buddy and good group person i simply cant pull it off. As advice above, going when its quiet OR getting a private guide is often the only sensible option. Speaking as a guide its a nightmare when you have a group of "normal" divers who want a tour and 1 proper photographer with a camera. Its impossible to please both.
  16. Thought i'd posted this before but i don't think i did. A slightly-too-long compilation of 3 days of Oceanic Mantas at Black Rock in the Mergui Archipelago, Myanmar. Very unusual trip in that (i) lots of mantas there and (ii) the visibility wasnt 5m of green for once! Underwater shot with a Canon EOS70D with and without a magic filter. I know there are frame rate stutter issues in places. No sound track as i dont actually have any music stored locally to put onto the footage.
  17. OK the new board finally arrived, was duly changed but same issue- nothing happens. Must be a failure battery unit side. So far in the 9 months or so ive owned the light, its been broken for 5 of them.
  18. A few things ive noticed. It depends on your strobe design. If you have a type with a long, straight tube which is relatively small (Inons etc) but id say yes you're likely to need one to spread the light. If you have strobes with big, circular tubes like Ikelites then possibly not so much. I have DS160s for example. Personally i find i get significantly more backscatter with diffusers vs none (and dome diffusers take it to another level...) so in silty/messy waters such as myanmar i pretty much never use diffusers. If im doing CFWA or just "really close" then i do use them pretty much always.
  19. Yup its not the button unfortunately. I contacted them and they instantly said they'd sent me a new board and links to videos of how to change it myself (which leads me to believe maybe this isnt a rare problem!) Does mean ive had to go and buy a soldering iron. I like the light but not overly impressed by the fact i got 2 months use, it broke, lost it for 2 months for a repair and now its happened again...
  20. Not sure if anyone can offer advice here or if ive had yet another breakage on one... Ive got a Scubalamp V6K that simply wont turn on at all. Battery is showing 3 x solid red LEDs which it normally does when charged. However when trying to turn the lamp on nothing happens at all, no flashing of the button, no head flash, nothing. Ive tried the holding the button in to get it out of hibernation mode but the same problem - nothing happens. So any suggestions as to what to try next? Not too happy with this light - i bought it in March, had about 2 months use before the head died and had to go back for 6 weeks for repair. Ive had a little bit of use out of it, stored it for 2 months and now it seems dead again. (I know the dealer i got it from has stopped stocking Supe as well they said due to reliability issues).
  21. Glad of that! I thought it would - as i said, the only reason i didn't bother myself is because i upgraded the housing. That and the last time i tried to do it myself on another port i own i made such a mess of it i had to send it to a professional to do properly! I still get nervous selling anything with a "defect" no matter how hard you try to highlight it to potential buyers! Also a bump, the other items are still available and as an added bonus, they dont need micro-mesh!
  22. Update.. The MINI DOME has now been sold. The 8" dome and flat port remain available.
  23. The issue is i already have 1 x V6K (non pro) so just need one extra. I found the pro significantly heavier and bulkier for travel and hard to fit with my already excessive baggage.
  24. Ive upgraded my housing so have some older Ikelite stuff to sell. Please note these are all for the FL (Four Lock) system NOT the newer mechanisms. All of which have been used for several years or more, all of which work. Reason for selling is i went for Nauticam. All items are located in the UK. First item:- Ikelite 8" Dome #5510.45 (https://www.ikelite.com/products/modular-8-dome-for-dlm-and-fl-port-systems) Bought in roughly 2009, saw use for 3 or 4 years before being retired and replaced with a minidome. Used semi-occasionally for split shots since then but otherwise gathering dust. It comes with the neoprene cover. Also included is the Ikelite extension port #5510.22 ( https://www.ikelite.com/products/fl-port-extension-for-lenses-up-to-4-125-inches) for Nikon 12-24 / Canon 10-22 and similar zooms The dome itself has the usual cosmetic marks consistent with use. The exterior has a few small marks on the acrylic as expected but these do not show on the images or videos. Normal surface wear only. Looking for £200gbp or rough equivalent for the dome, extension and cover Item 2:- Ikelite Flat Port Next up is a Ikelite FL flat port #5502.41 (https://www.ikelite.com/products/fl-flat-port-for-lenses-up-to-4-1-inches) for macro lenses up to about 60mm Again shows marks and some dust as per use. Optically no issues or marks at all on the surface. Does NOT have a neoprene cover Looking for £75gbp or equivalent. Item 3: 5" precision minidome for Tokina 10-17 This is a 5" precision mini-dome designed by UWCamera stuff solely for the Tokina 10-17 lens. Part number:- Prec-5in-Tok-ike It can be seen here:- http://www.uwcamerastuff.com/precision_5_dome.htm This was my go-to dome and used for 95%+ of my photography. As a result it shows signs of usage. (The photos also show dust from the cupboard). [/img] [/img] Please note the above photo:- It DOES have a scratch on the front which IS visible in photos and video, particularly areas of blue water etc. Its not that bad (i used it for months like that) but to get rid of it you'd need some nova polish/wet and dry and do the standard acrylic port polishing to remove it. I didn't bother because i could live with it and had no source of materials to polish it where i was based. Please be aware of this - i've gone out of my way to highlight it as much as possible in this image. All of these are exterior surface, internal is fine and has no markings. It comes with the neoprene port cover, shade and so on. It has the Ikelite 5510.11 port extension with it to fit the Tokina 10-17. Looking in the region of £100gbp for it or equivalent. All items are located in the UK, postage can be calculated if needed depending on where the buyer is. I will sell separately or as a package. If you want all 3 i can charge less. Also, not listed but if anyone is interested in a well used Ikelite 70D housing to go with these let me know - i have that too and can work something out.
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