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Everything posted by String

  1. Can anyone suggest tutorials or methods of colour correcting underwater video using Premiere Pro CC? Im familiar with photography and Photoshop/LR for editing where i can simple for example correct water by just sampling it with the HSL dropper and dragging down luminance, hue etc There seems to be no equivalent Premiere system that i can find for editing such as editing a single colour. I've read around and it seems to suggest using the HSL Secondary but despite a long time of trying ive never been able to get an adequate selection to perform a similar task without artefacts being clear or bits of the water missed entirely. So what is the standard technique used for removing a colour cast or say darkening blues and so on ? Its easy on stills but seems very very hard on video.
  2. To me it looks like standard TTL failing. As the ambient is quite bright its not firing the strobe enough to put any sort of light or colour back in. Its a fairly common failing of TTL - it just tries to get a good exposure. It has no idea the purpose of underwater is to block out a lot of ambient and overpower it with strobe. You really need to shoot manual where you can set these things for yourself. Automatic TTL modes from my experience always underfire the strobe and create washed out images on wide angle like this.
  3. Watching this too.... I know what im doing with PS/LR but Premiere has nothing in common!
  4. Im looking for advice of recommended white balance strategies for filming using video lights. Im primarily a photographer so have a good grasp of the theory there but obviously video is different (less light, no RAW etc). I currently have a V6K (12000 lumen) single video light and primarily testing wide angle subjects, diving in the tropics. What is the best option for getting a sensible white balance with this type of setup? I did experiment setting the colour temperature of my lights as a white balance but havent found the results there great - far too green and washed out. Is this simply because the light isnt powerful enough ? Im getting far better results on auto and the deeper i go, the better it is (i guess due to less ambient light getting in the way,again, is this just a lack of power)? Is there any merit in trying to take a manual white balance via a grey card or slate with the light on and using that? Last time i tried that i had some very odd colour shift and results so maybe its my technique? Im aware for wide angle i really need 2 lights for coverage and 12,000 isn't overly powerful which wont help but basically im looking for advice on the right technique to get a decent white balance on the video.
  5. Ive got 1 x V6K (non pro) and have done a few trips with it. My previous light was a sola 3000 fwiw. From my initial observations, the light appears solid and well made, battery life is roughly as advertised as is burn time. The beam seems even with no obvious hot and cold spots. From flat the recharge time seems to be 2 hours or so. I did look at the Pro version but for me the weight was substantially more and i dont need that extra burn time as i can charge inbetween dives and arent using it for long extended periods. The smaller size and significantly less weight won it for me. I got mine from Prestiege Scuba (Nauticam Malaysia) in Kuala Lumpur. Thai import tax and duty for anything electronic is ludicrous so its often cheaper to fly to KL or singapore and buy there.
  6. Thanks for that, ive decided to try Scubalamp V6K as its easy to source in the region i am now and seems to get decent writeups.
  7. My Sola 3000 Flood appears to have died so looking at replacement options. FWIW i shoot mainly wide angle, DSLR video in the tropics. The limitations i found with the 3000 were (i) it wasnt wide enough so i really needed 2 and (ii) its not bright enough shallower than 20m. So with that in mind, what are the potential options out there these days? Ive seen mention of cheap chinese ones that actually seem to work OK and others say not. Anything in particular to look at? Cheapish would be nice but obviously prepared to pay whats needed.
  8. Ive tried 4 different batteries so the odds on all 4 being faulty id have thought are slim. After on/off switch and general fiddling, so far after 5-10 mins i can get it to come on and work. Once working it generally stays working. That said on dive 1 today on the dive i got a brief (2 second) flashing red LED but then went back to green and stayed there. Im not getting any audible alarms here with this at all. Ive inspected and checked the moisture probe pins and they look fine. No obvious signs of corrosion on the wires of PCB that i can see (its a newish housing). Admittedly i havent taken the entire system out of the bulkhead to inspect yet as im on a boat with limited tools and time so maybe that'll be the reluctant next option.
  9. I'll give it a go later but i dont think its that as i can fiddle for 10 mins or so around the battery area and then it usually works normally (until i turn it off again). I get no audible alarm.
  10. Looking for some possible advice. Ive got a fairly new (Feb 2018) housing with the fitted vacuum and leak detector. This worked perfectly for a few months but now i've got an issue. Basically, when i turn on the housing i get a blue flashing LED then it goes to constant red and stays there. According to the manual this is low battery but ive now tried 4 x 2450 batteries with the same result so the chances of a bad batch are likely remote. If i fiddle with it enough (remove, reinsert battery, turn it on/off, push, squeeze etc) for a few minutes then usually i can get it to behave itself and it works, shows vacuum and stays working normally until i next turn it off. Im confident there is no loss of vacuum or moisture (contacts are clean on the detector probe). The red comes in before even fitting the back. Any idea what i can do to troubleshoot or attempt to fix this issue as obviously having a known vacuum and working leak detection would be nice.
  11. I used to get this all the time with my 8" dome ikelite using a 10-17 and 10-22.Never found a fix other than permanent marker on the lens writing. I never fully cured it. Sent from my BTV-DL09 using Tapatalk
  12. I seriously doubt the Sola 2100 is going to help anyway unless its night time or very deep. Its nowhere near powerful enough shallow and sunny to overcome natural light. If its wide angle you need to be close - if you're over half a metre away its too far. And if you are close enough my money is on TTL not firing the strobe enough so switching to manual is the answer. If macro then TTL should, kind of work.
  13. If its TTL then quite possibly its choosing to use too much ambient light and not enough strobe and the result is a blue/green washed out image lacking in colour. Try it manual without TTL above.
  14. OK... So how would i go about creating a "40T" calibration style profile for lightroom/ACR? Ive looked at the DNG editor but that needs a colour chart which obviously isnt applicable to this. EDIT:- Scrap that, i found it. Created a 100T profile and its a massive improvement.
  15. Interesting, I've never played with custom profiles before. Need to look how to go about creating one. FWIW it tried capture 1 and it's fine. The restriction appears to be entirely adobe raw. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
  16. Camera colour space is sRGB. Its an issue ive had going back a few years with various canon compact and DSLRs and all versions of LR/ACR at the time. Rebuilding the red channel would be a lot of work - its easier to import raw into DPP then export the TIFF into lightroom. Its an extra step and one id rather not make hence the question. I can edit that TIFF perfectly.
  17. Its not a camera profile setting - they all have the same issue. The tint is simply maxed out in LR with no further scope for reducing it. The raw file is here:- http://www.whitcombe.org.uk/photo/IMG_8090.CR2if anyone wants to play.
  18. Im using LR/Photoshop a lot but keep running into the same problem repeatedly. Namely, with photos involving a significant tint (ie underwater, manual WB or filter photography), the adobe software gives me substantially different looking images with substantially less editing potential than the same file loaded into Canon digital photo pro (and then exported as a TIFF). Some examples:- Manual white balance at about 4m depth. No editing on RAW Same as above. The situation gets worse the deeper i go. Some filter stuff in the 10-16m range is drastically different. 20m depth, magic filter From Lightroom/ACR the white balance slider is imported as this:- Its an issue because the original JPG looks good, importing the preview jpg (embedded with RAW) displays as per the camera. Then when its thumbnailed and finished importing the lock to the green with maxed out tint and balance settings. It means i can do very little or no colour correcting editing in the Adobe products. Canon DPP imports it looking pretty much as per the JPG with full adjustments allowed. Exporting the RAW from DPP as a TIFF then importing that TIFF into lightroom allows full adjustments to be made. To me it seems as if the Adobe raw engine for Canon is misreading or unable to utilise the full range of data or is importing a setting incorrectly. With strobe lit shot this isn't an issue as there arent the huge tints to deal with. Ive had this problem with RAWs from various canon compacts (S95, S120) and DSLRs (450d, 550d, 70D) and lots of versions of lightroom (from v4 to CC 2014) and photoshop (from CS onwards) and its a consistent problem. Its not a picture style issue as ive tried all the various ones of those - its quite simply my manual WB underwater shots appear far greener and tinted in LR with little or no scope for adjusting than in DPP. Obviously re-exporting all my CR2s as TIFFs from DPP just to import into LR is a fairly annoying extra step editing. So has anyone else noticed this or can suggest a workaround?
  19. As above, its handy for me with the 70D as i don't need to break open the housing inbetween dives or often after a days diving. The battery gets me hundreds of shots without a charge so thats often a few days worth. Once in the housing and sealed and dived id rather not risking making it leak by reassembling if i can avoid it. Obviously the wifi is very slow when transferring RAW files so something to be aware of.
  20. Cheers, masking worked. I don't use TTL anyway so its no real loss. Ive had the issue on a previous (550D) housing and the same on this. It also sometimes "crashes" and buttons stop responding and i need to power cycle the primary strobe to get control back. I may just bypass it completely as above to prevent the problem coming back. The controller has never been flooded but the housing does get varying amounts of condensation in and this does seem to affect it sometimes when it runs there. No real way around that as im in the tropics, high humidity and no aircon available.
  21. Relatively time critical question... I'm currently in Lembeh for a few days with the camera but the TTL controller on my housing is playing up, buttons electrically (not physically) stuck causing mode and power changes i cant override with the strobe (DS161s) dial themselves. The last time it was stuck on the default TTL mode and i couldn't hold both buttons in to turn to manual. I never ever use TTL so this was a pain and causing very inconsistent shots. So, can anyone tell me what pins to mask on the hot shoe OR as a last plan, what wire to cut so the thing just fires bypassing the controller? This should then allow me to use the dial on the strobe to adjust power.
  22. I have that problem with the 8" ikelite dome on both the 10-22 and Tokina 10-17 lenses. Its a reflection of the lens front (on the 10-22 i could read CANON in mirror image on the thing. It was always worse on split shots OR very shallow water shots where the sun with *just* out of the frame. It ruined a fair number of shots as quite often it was too big to clone out. I tried various methods like a black marker pen over the lens from to hide the writing but nothing stopped it. The port itself is black so i assume its internal reflection through the housing itself. Short of duct tape over the entire housing front i don't know what to suggest. On the 5" mini dome and 10-17 on the same setup i get no such issue.
  23. Ive got 1 possibly 2 days in KL before returning to Indonesia in a few weeks. Im specifically looking for either a Canon S110 or S120 with the Canon U/W housing. I know Lowyat is likely my best place for the camera but am i likely to get the housing there as well? Failing that, can someone recommend me somewhere in the area i can get to in order to buy one. Ideally i'll be there 1 day, 2 at most. Also, im looking to see if someone sells the Ikelite 67mm wide angle lens for their S100 housing somewhere in that area for a friend if possible.
  24. Nexus 7 is OK for displaying the JPGs and so on. I use my 70Ds wireless to send to it. The screen though really makes it unsuitable for editing (as do all tablets). Color reproduction isnt accurate, shadows aren't right and so on.
  25. Its set for process 2012 (i tried the older ones as well, same problem). This doesn't seem to be on *all* photos with the camera - merely the ambient light photos where reds and so on are missing. Its happened on all the dives ive done so far with magic filters.
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