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I've just been playing with Magic Filters on my S95 but come across a strange problem (im sure its not filter related). Taking a photo, ambient light, manually white balanced, shooting in RAW+JPG mode. The JPG has much more red and less colour cast substantially than the RAW file. BUT when i load into LR5.2 or CS6 RAW editor it initially displays as the jpg (as its reading the embedded preview) but once its rendered properly the colour goes substantially green or blue. I'm unable to process the RAW to look anything like the JPG - the white balance tint is already at the max of 150 and the image is still very green or blue. As the slider appears maxed out already i cant remove this. The result is a JPG off the camera looks fine (if i load this into LR or PS i can do a lot of editing the colours so plenty of room to spare) but a RAW file that appears maxed out. Example below (crap picture due to low light and algae but it gets the point across):- The first is the JPG straight off the camera (sliders on LR are neutral/middle FWIW) and the second is the same RAW file which comes with the tint at +150 maxed out already so no further correction possible. Any idea what/how i can sort this problem out? Its odd i have a lot more potential for JPG editing than i do RAW or is it likely to be an ACR bug in handling the S95 files? FWIW i've tried using DPP and the RAW file displays properly and can be white balanced adjusted in there, it just seems to be adobe RAW handling thats different. For anyone interested in playing themselves i've uploaded the original right off the camera JPG and RAW files here:- Index of /files/2013/wb/originals I know the photo etc is technically useless - it was grabbed on a guided dive purely to prove the point above with no attempt at getting settings or anything correct. WB was set manually with a slate at the same angle/depth a few seconds previously. Depth roughly 17m in fairly dark green water.

Try it on land against something where sharpness is easy to judge - the lens SHOULD be very good. I use it underwater with the ikelite flat port and extremely pleased with the images - fast focus and exceedingly sharp. I generally shoot f/8 to f/11 (sometmes higher) and it is to my eye, perfect. I always use centre single focus point to make sure the object i want is focus locked before recomposing. With a strobe, shutter speed should not be an issue at all for the image provided the subject is well lit by it. The ruler suggestion above on land is a good staring point to check the lens is actually performing as it should. Underwater all i can suggest is that its focussing on the right subject and not auto picking something else in the image.

The extension ring on my setup is black and not transparent so its not light getting through there.

Ive got a canon 10-22 and 8" ikelite dome and have exactly the same problem - its a reflection of the front grooves of the lens and manufacturers name. I get it when the sun is directly in the front OR when its JUST outside to the top left or right. This is quite restrictive given they're common shooting angles. It happens to me underwater as well, particularly shallow depths in tropical waters. The first thing i did was colour in the lens writing with black marker and and that stopped those from showing. Someone recommended matt/rubber tape over the lens grooves to stop the reflection but i like the idea of the sock trick and will try that shortly. The 6" dome does NOT have the same problem.

Im currently using a canon 10-22mm wide lens and a single Ikelite DS-160 strobe. Im really struggling to find a decent position for this strobe for wide angle so looking for tips. If ive got it spaced a long way out from the housing i seem to drastically lose power to the extent i struggle to light the subject for example. Would directly in the middle help to evenly cover the target or is that just asking for backscatter chaos? Also, as its wide angle and a single strobe is it best if i keep the diffuser on or off? (assuming i dont need the extra power without)? Im really struggling to light up entire objects (specifically a diver!) currently. What sort of position would people suggest i use for a close up, head on shot of a diver swimming towards me for example and would that be with/without diffuser? How close to the housing assuming subject distance is 0.5m or less? Stupid as it sounds, would i be better off going a bit further away, zooming in to compensate so allowing the expanded cone of light to better cover the diver?

From there it doesnt look good then. I may just have spent money on something that isn't going to produce decent shots. Resisted getting a fisheye as they're completely useless on land and i dislike the curve on some U/W shots.

That i dont know and cant really see any way of finding that out. Its the standard ikelite 8" dome and the stalk they recommend for it (5510.22). When its all fitted the markers on the camera for the point are hidden. Are there any disadvantages to using a dioptre if one does work? Will i lose the ability to focus further and so on? (fwiw the ikelite lens/port chart says one isnt needed for my combination of port and stalk).

Just started playing with my Canon 10-22mm lens in Ikelite housing with 8" dome, correct stalk etc. The centre of the image and so on is great and sharp BUT the corners are extremely soft and very noticeably so on every shot ive taken with it. Am i just going to have to live with this or would a dioptre help at all ? Going on a trip soon and would rather not have several months potentially of very soft corners or having to crop all my images all the time to remove it. A few examples showing it off fairly badly: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3465/337905...c49135b87_b.jpg http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3571/337905...56a141c19_b.jpg If a dioptre wont help is anything likely to such as closing down the aperture, zooming in etc ?

I've been offered an ikelite 100a strobe (cost nothing). Ive just bought an EOS 450D and Ikelite housing. Is there any way at all this strobe can be used with that setup if not in TTL but in a manual mode (with cable?) or is it likely to be of no use at all in any mode? This is no cost to me but obviously if its no use at all either then there's no point in taking it.

Cheers for the replies, weighing up the options i went for the 8" in the end rather than get the 6 and risk being disappointed. Once im over the shock of how much money ive just spent in a short space of time i'll be fine!

Ive got the 18-55 IS and although its an "ok" lens (my tamron 17-50 f/2.8 is far far sharper) my main query is will i actually need or want a lens of that range underwater so is it worth actually buying a stalk for it.

Im finally ready to order my DSLR housing (Ikelite for 450D) and just deciding on dome port choice. Lens primarily will be a Canon 10-22mm in Ikelite housing. Apparently this will work in a 6" or 8" dome. Other than the obvious cost difference am i likely to get vignetting on the 6" on the lens and is the 8" worth the difference in price? Im not adverse to paying for an 8" dome if there are real world benefits but on the flip side dont want to pay for one if there's no advantage to the 6". Also, is it worth getting a stalk for the 18-55 IS kit lens as well or am i unlikely to use that lens much underwater? (currently only use compacts underwater and rarely if ever on anything except full wide). Advice welcome before i spend a lot of money in the next 2 days!

Been using this on my A620 for a while and its excellent. RAW mode for underwater is invaluable. Other small things make it so useful as well such as a proper battery level indicator, "zebra" mode for exposure help along with live histogram and so on.