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About dunfield

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  • Birthday 11/12/1961

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  • Location
    Kingston, ON, Canada

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sony T1
  1. On DP Review, folks are recommending I take a photo of the white card at every new depth and then use it to set the WB adjustment and apply to all photos in the section. This likely won't work for video though. Thanks Jim
  2. I am using the NEX 5 for my first dive trip. We are in Bonaire and the custom white balance function gives an error when I use it underwater. I use a white card to set the white balance. With the NEX 5 it works above water but not below where I get the following message: White Balance Error - 9900k M9 I have used the technique of setting the white balance using a white card with our Canon SD870IS and it has worked extremely well. The NEX 5 white balance adjustment is not working and all photos are blue. I am now shooting in RAW and JPG hoping to be able to adjust pictures and video colours later but I suspect it will be very labour intensive. Anyone else using custom white balance underwater on a NEX 5. I am typically using the Aperature Priority mode with F8. Three days left of diving and I would love to be able to adjust video and photo colours in real-time. Thanks Jim
  3. Thanks Ken What do you use for your stronger light? Jim
  4. I have just purchased a Z240 type 4 and am a bit confused by the manual's description of the need for the focus light filters. If I understand the manual correctly the filters are to be used in the following ways: 1. red filter sticker over focus light: Used when not using the "-0.5 White Diffuser 2" and when shooting ultra macro shots; 2. red screw-in filter LE: Used when using the "-0.5 White Diffuser 2" and when shooting ultra macro shots. This filter screws nicely into the diffuser in front of the focus light. It also suggests that the focus light will not disturb animals as much. 3. W40 degree screw-in filter LE: Seems to be the same use as the red screw in filter. I will be using the Sony NEX5 in the Nauticam housing with it. I expect to use the strobe in the S-TTL mode mostly. My question is should I use any of the focus light filters? I am tempted to use the red screw in filter. Anyone know if it disturbs the wildlife any less. Thanks Jim
  5. Thanks very much Chris and Phil for your quick replies. I think I will start with the 18-55mm port with the macro adapter. Later, once I have got a handle with it I will progress to the FE and dome. Phil I very much appreciated your review of the camera and housing. Jim
  6. I will be getting a Sony NEX-5 with a Nauticam housing and a Inon Z240 strobe. For the Nauticam housing I now have to decide if I want to start with the port for the 18-55mm lens which can accept a macro lens or to get the dome port for the 16mm lens with Fish Eye lens. I am torn between the two. Any comments or experience. I am upgrading from a Canon SD870 P&S. In the long run I will probably get both but would prefer to start with one and get use to the setup for our first trip down south. Thanks Jim
  7. Thanks for the comments. Would it make any sense to continue to use the Epoque strobe as a second strobe to the Z-240. My long term plan is to get 2 similar strobes but I would like to spread the investment out. The Eqoque strobe only has a manual power setting so getting the correct strength is always tricky. The plan would be to use it for fill. Thoughts? Thanks Jim
  8. I am planning on getting a NEX-5, a Nauticam housing and one strobe. Is an Inon Z240 the best way to go? A small strobe is advantages for traveling. I have been using an Epoque strobe for a few years now with a Canon SD870 and would like to move up in capability. Should I buy a 0.5 or 1.5 diffuser with it? I am not sure what lenses I will get with the camera but will likely get the fish eye lens to attach to the 16 mm lens. I believe the Z240 has a focusing light. Is it a tight spot or very diffused? Is there any chance I can use this as a weak video light? I currently use a UK Light Canon for my video light but since the Sony NEX-5 has much better low light capabilities I am hoping to not have to include the LC on the setup. If not, if there is a different strobe that includes a video light that would work I may consider it instead of the Inon Z240. Thanks
  9. In addition, any comments on the flexible arm. I planning on getting the 30 cm arm. I find it odd that you have to order the arm attachment piece, required to attach the arm to a tray, separately ( $14 USD). I'm hoping to make up my own sync cord from a piece of fiber optic cable. Anyone done this before?
  10. I'm considering to buy the new alpha version of the Epoque ES 150 DS. I'm wondering if anyone has used one and if they have any opinions on it. It has an improved battery case cover so should reduce the chances of flooding. I use a Sony T1 camera. Thanks Jim
  11. Sorry Fuzz, I stand corrected. It's the Sony M1 that has MPEG 4. The P150 has MPEG VX as does the T1. Jim
  12. One additional point. The T1 takes excellent videos. This is one of the main reasons I purchased it a year ago. Not many cameras could take 30 fps at 640 by 480. Now a number of other cameras can do this. The new Sony P150 also does this, I believe and it uses MPEG 4, twice as efficient. I find for underwater recording, video captures the atmosphere better than pictures. You can see some of my pictures / videos here. I am a new diver so don't expect anything beautiful yet. http://dunfield.rmc.ca/scuba/ Jim
  13. I have a Sony T1 and will be using it soon in Cuba. I am hoping to be able to rig up some type of filter holder in front of the camera lense housing. Sony does sell a filter but after taxes it would cost over $200 CAD, which I can't justify. The water in Cuba is blueish, and I plan to take more video than still shots. (The T1 is very capable of doing both, although it's not good in low light conditions). I've been doing as much reading as I can about the filters but can't seem to find a lot to detailed info. For Cokin filters, it would seem that the color correction magenta filters; ie CC 30M or 50M would help, but other sources seem to lean toward the color conversion filters ie 81C or 85 etc. The UR Pro filters also seem to be popular, although I suspect more expensive. It would seem that the CY version would be best for blue water. In either case (Cokin or UR Pro) I would need to cut them to size, which I assume I could do in our machine shop at work. Does anyone have any recommendations between these filters? The depth of course would vary. I get the impression that I would start to use a filter at about 10 ft. Any experience would be helpful. Thanks Jim Here are sample pictures / videos from the first time I used the camera underwater (no filter used) http://dunfield.rmc.ca/scuba/Cuba/scuba_snorkle/
  14. I have the Sony T1. I love it. It takes great videos, but the fact that the widest aperature setting is only 3.0 is quite limiting. I am a beginner diver and cannot profess to be experienced with underwater photography yet, but have a look at my pictures / videos to date if you like. http://dunfield.rmc.ca/scuba/ Jim
  15. Does a color correction filter reduce the light level much? Should I expect a one or two stop change in light level? Thanks Jim
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