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Posts posted by escape



    Sorry for the stupidly used epic kind of music (again) on not epic footage.

    This is my last footage from GH4 which I don't have anymore (GH5 coming).

    I liked GH4 except some purple color cast on wide shot with manual WB (hopefully GH5 will be better).


    Shot on GH4 with Panasonic 7-14mm in Nauticam housing, Fix 7000 lights.

    All clip shot on 4K mode & no post color grading done.



    • Like 3

  2. I have a Canon 5DM3. So the 100mm should be good then? When I went to Analio I used a 60mm but on a 7d so that was 84mm.


    If it's about EF-S 60mm then you can't mount on 5d3 which is ef mount (unless use tc or extension ring).

  3. Point at the sun maybe? It might help in some cases. When I used to get MWB errors on my Sony Z1P when white balancing against the palm of my hand or something white (usually deeper than 20m), pointing at the sun would often let me get a successful white balance and get me out of trouble.

    I'll try it next time.

    Thanks for the reply.

  4. Hi everyone,


    I recently start using sony a7s because I needed high iso.

    I like the camera and the lens. Superior Sony FE1635 and some Canon optics with metabone.


    The problem is mwb issue, very often getting error message if I'm trying mwb or I'm getting very poor color with what ever method I try (different PP or without).

    So now I'm shooting everything with "underwater auto" which is just ok (getting lot of red with strong light or shallow).

    And "Underwater auto wb" tend to change color reproduction (so they call auto) each time when I start record (this is more problematic in post).

    I can reduce some red in post and possibly makes them usable but most of time I need throw them to client directly without post-edit.


    Normally I do mwb on sand or other object and I didn't have any mwb problem with Canon DLSR (7D, 70D, 5D3) or Panasonic GH4.

    Do I need more accurate white or grey card for Sony?

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.



  5. thanks , Nick hope, at 2.52, that nudibranch is really big, about half palm size(i use hand to compare the size), really rare to see that size, that's why i can shot some big close-up,

    actually, the lenses of mark 4, is so hard to shot macro image, i use Subsee+10 ,but i don't think it's enough for shooting close-up, i may consider to get another more stronger macro lense for fitting this camera, maybe SAGA +25, or some other choices..


    I had a experience with only RX100 mark 1 but maybe you could try nautcam cmc which is specially designed for compact camera lens?

    Because I was having more difficult with very short working distance not because of power of diopter.


  6. Hi Davide,

    What kind of buoyancy device you're using?

    I just tried mount a7s + 17-35, fix 7k on a scooter but too negative with stix + nauticam carbon arms.

    I can add more of these but I'm afraid it'll make too much drag and I guess stix losing (compress) buoyancy from +40 meter.




  7. Davide, Thanks a lot for the reply.


    We often have rough sea and very hard to entry/exit with heavy gear (ccr, bo's) and it seems suex is better because of quick release.

    Are you mounting both (housing & lights) on the dpv?

    I really curious to know stability (video footage) when lots of gear on dpv.

  8. 18516563361_fdbb8d9bf4_z.jpg




    Olympus M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 60mm f/2.8 Macro Lens

    Macro port 65 for Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 60mm F2.8 Macro (with M67 thread)

    O60-F for Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 60mm F2.8 Macro focus gear


    About 1 year old, mint condition.


    Lens + focus gear + Port : $550 + Shipping.




    Nauticam SMC / NEW / never been wet / $300 + shipping.




    Panasonic 35-100mm f/2.8 Lumix G Vario Zoom Lens

    5 month old, mounted once. $750 + shipping.


    All item locate in S.Korea and I can ship to anywhere via EMS (trackable / $30~$50).





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