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LauadiBaby last won the day on June 5 2015

LauadiBaby had the most liked content!

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About LauadiBaby

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  • Birthday October 27

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    Los Angeles

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  • Camera Model & Brand
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea and Sea 250's
  • Accessories
    ULCS arms, Sola 800, Sola 4000's, Xit 404 gears
  • Industry Affiliation
    Go Ask Erin
  1. I'm shooting a Canon 1DX - I'll ask my pal at Canon what he thinks. Even though the Digic 4 is 14 bit, I think the sensor still collects data in the same fashion, so although the numbers of available tones would change, the percentage collected for each stop would remain the same. In the meanwhile here are some before and afters, histograms included.
  2. Here's one that wouldn't upload in the last post...I'll post the edited versions when I get a minute :-)
  3. Because I edit and print, I don't mind a washed out image straight from the camera. Better that than a dark one, by far.
  4. I always try to expose to the right, but it's not always possible to exploit the brightest stop as much as I'd like. Nonetheless, I'm always THINKING about exposing to the right, which means I'm always analyzing the histogram to see how I can maximize the potential of each image, data-wise. The histogram is a critical tool for me to get the best shot I can in camera, thus the best image to work with in post. For me the two are inextricably intertwined. My version of "nailing it in the camera" means gathering the most possible RAW data available about my shot, which results in the richest possible file and the best final image. I'm likely to spend a lot less time in post with a nice juicy ETTR file. An ETTR file often looks flat and overly hot on the back of the camera, but here's the thing - the LCD preview and histogram don't accurately represent the way your RAW capture will look. They're based on an sRGB (smaller color space) preview, so the histogram may be as much as a stop off. A "properly" exposed shot, with the lion's share of the image creating a "mountain in the middle" is a shot in which you may have thrown away fully half of the available image data. I usually shoot until I see just the teensiest highlight warning blinkies and call it good. Managing the dance between shutter speed, f-stop and ISO can be complex. I used to do everything possible to avoid raising the native ISO, but I've changed my ways. Though most newer cameras are built to handle high ISO magnificently, the sensor still collects data in the same linear fashion, with 2048 of a possible 4096 (12-bit RAW) tones collected in the brightest stop. That means that underexposing (no ETTR) can result in a hefty potential data loss. I'm not advocating blown highlights here. Lightroom can restore almost 2 stops of highlight data, but nothing kills a shot faster than a blasted sunball or badly clipped highlights. For many, "nailing it the camera" is code for not having to edit in post, so it follows that ETTR isn't at all enticing to those with an aversion to editing. I think there's a misconception held by many that all editing takes forever, and is only needed to rescue sub-par images. Not so. Finessing an ETTR exposure can take just moments in Lightroom or Adobe Camera Raw. Fluency in editing can be as much the hallmark of an accomplished shooter as their photos are. Shooting and editing inform each other, and post-production provides a set of tools like the darkroom used to, that gives the artist an extra level of control over the finished photo.
  5. I'm very interested in the conversion kit for the D300. How can I contact Sam Chae? Best, Erin Quigley sugarcube@earthlink.net
  6. At 7 PM PST tonight (Jan 16), something happened to the upload page, and the only competition that appears as an option for submissions is DEEP. I though both competitions were extended until 11:59 PM PST on Jan 16. Is it just me? EQ
  7. Has anyone read the letter circulating about KBR and the Naia from Kevin and Valerie Tear (former managers of KBR)? I received an irate email response to their letter from KBR's owner, but have no idea what instigated it. This is of particular interest to me since I'm traveling to Kunkungan Bay Resort in August. I've been to the resort once before and loved it - it's an unbelieveable Mecca for muck divers/macro enthusiasts.
  8. You're right, it's time for servicing, especially since I'm going to Indonesia for a few weeks in August. Ergo, I'm having it overhauled and upgraded for the 4040 as well. The button is still an addition charge. The total will come to $225.
  9. Great idea for the Tetra - wish I'd thought of it! By the way, after more conversation with LMI, I'm sending the housing in to have the shutter mechanism replaced. It's true that a stiffer (rated to 300ft) spring was originally used instead of the current (rated to 200ft) one, but apparently there was also an issue with a particular batch of springs that were mistakenly manufactured from aluminum and thus corroded badly. Regardless, LMI doesn't consider the replacement warranty work, so there's an upgrade charge. Good Luck with your wetmate plan. EQ
  10. There is macro at Cocos, but the hammerhead shots were taken with a Nikonos RS and a 20-35 zoom. Everything on the 35mm page of my site was taken with the RS.
  11. I can't follow John's link either - maybe you can repost it?
  12. Thanks for the corrections, guys. I own both the wetmate and non-wetmate lenses. I think the Tetra is a wonderful housing or I wouldn't have invested in more gear. It's just that shutter thang... The housing has had 1 full service maintainance, but that was before LM had the 4040 upgrade available. I don't recall the exact cost of said upgrade( I think $350-$450), but I'll find out and post it later along with the amount I paid for the rig at DEMA. I'm sure if you've had luck with L&M's support system in the past, it won't be any different as it relates to items purchased at DEMA. A full warranty was included on everything. Thanks! [Edited on 5-30-2002 by LauadiBaby]
  13. Thanks, Herb. I look forward to seeing more of your shots.
  14. Herb, your pix are gorgeous! The Solomon's are a wonderful place for photography of any kind, but I had a great time trying out my Tetra/3030/4040 combo. I'm not having much luck attaching the jpegs to this post , but I've posted them at: http://homepage.mac.com/erinquigley/Personal.html
  15. The housing has had this problem since day 1; I bought it at DEMA along with the 3030. One day I'll stop investing in Beta versions. I managed to get some nice Macro shots out of the box - http://homepage.mac.com/erinquigley/Personal.html - but many opportunities were lost while wrestling with the shutter. After talking to L & M, my understanding of their expensive upgrade is that it pertains primarily to the labeling of the control buttons on the back of the housing, and also includes a minor adjustment to the lens opening in the housing. Since any labeling erodes fairly quickly on the conrol buttons, I removed the foam from the inside of the lens portion of the housing and have had no problems ( except the lame shutter release button) with using the 4040. I've become leery of L & M since I discovered (on this site) that their Wetmate lenses are actually manufactured by and available from Inon at a fraction of what L & M charges. Since I bought the Wetmates at the inflated price and have had no satisfaction from L & M regarding my other Tetra issues, I guess I feel a bit taken advantage of.
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