witchieblackcat

Hi Mike, I got a refund being as the Leak Sentinel doesn't actually fit in any of the places you might like to put it on a D300s housing. I keep thinking about trying something else but haven't done anything about it so far. Alistair Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Have you considered a D300s? It's a touch newer than a bog standard D300 and may do until the somewhat mythical D400 turns up (although NikonRumors.com reckons it might this year or next). Personally, I intend to convert totally to FX. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks Bill It's the threaded bolt in the middle of your picture I can't remove. I've got the outer nut off as well as the control and have no retaining nut fitted. What do I used to remove the threaded bolt in the middle of your picture? Pliers seem like an easy way to ruin the threads if I ever wanted to replace it. Alistair

I got the Vivid Housings Leak Sentinel V3 for my Ikelite Nikon D300s housing from my LDS. Initially installation was tricky following the instructions on the package: 1. Remove the control gland 2. Screw the adapter into the opening 3. Apply the standard test procedure (see manual) I was stumped on 1. Remove the control gland! After talking to my LDS I found out that the instructions are emailed direct rather than come with the package. I soon received them. 3. Installation The installation procedure depends on the type of the adapter/housing. Instructions for the specific type are included in the product package. Leak Sentinel is installed by either replacing the bulkhead, bulkhead cap, or screwed in the corresponding accessory port. For more details, please refer to the instructions in the product package. So it looks like the instructions I already had were the ones I needed. But... how does one remove the control gland? Another chat with my LDS and I get further instructions from the Leak Sentinel chap. To replace the control gland on Ikelite housing, please follow the steps below: 1. Remove the control button using the appropriate hex wrench 2. Remove the control shaft by pulling it from the inside of the housing through the gland 3. Use the wrench to unwind the control gland (hexagonal metal part) from the housing 4. Screw the Leak Sentinel's adapter into the threaded opening in the housing 5. Apply the standard test procedure (see manual) Ok. So I can do step 1. Step 2 works with some of my controls but not others and, more importantly, not the one I want to replace. Step 3 doesn't work as the control I want to replace is threaded in and unscrewing it reveals an x-washer which is incredibly difficult to put back in and nothing to unscrew. I'm stumped. Does anyone know how to do this before I take it back to the LDS for a refund? Thanks

I use a D300s underwater (I used to have a D300 which is pretty much identical in this respect) and a D600 on land. The D300s has much better AF than the D600 does so I suspect it will perform better at depth (for AF). I've had a little dusting on my D600's sensor but nothing to really worry about. It needed a clean once (I did it myself) and since then it's been happy.

The focus lock is on the back of the camera so removing the LCD protector to shift the camera back would exacerbate the problem surely? Not the the camera will shift back much at all as it's secured to the mounting plate using the tripod screw.

Again thanks for the advice. I checked the camera at depth (45m) at the weekend. The problem is the AE-L/AF-L lock button which has the additional effect of locking the focus so every picture below 15-20m is out of focus! I'm thinking of removing the little plastic cap from the end of the pushing rod to give myself a little more clearance which should sort things out. @jcclink No, the eyecup is present. I used to take it off on the D70s I had but it makes no difference so I leave it on now. I just looked at the camera and the eyecup is further in than the LCD protector @Tinman The LCD protector seems exactly the same as the one on the D300 (I had one of them up until I flooded it in July hence all the new kit courtesy of the nice insurance man). I might try taking the LCD protector off. Not sure it will help in this situation as if anything it'll be pushing the camera and the AE-L/AF-L lock button forwards and away from the pushing rod causing the problem. @UWphotoNewbie I can't see why it would be the shutter as it's on a swivel rod rather than in and out (so water pressure wouldn't affect it) but just to be sure I checked anyway. The shutter definitely isn't being pressed by the water pressure. The housing is brand new so I'd be really disappointed if the spring was worn. I'll report back after my next test which is probably in two weeks.

Thanks for the replies. Tinman, I've been working through the buttons on the back and seeing if they'd interfere with the LCD function but hadn't considered the shutter. I'll have a look at that area next. J-S, I always leave the LCD protector on a housed camera. It's worked for my D300 and D70s so I can't see why that will upset the D300s. Although it might just be moving it a touch towards the shutter causing a Tinman issue.

I've just taken delivery of a new Nikon D300s and Ikelite housing to match. I tried it out last weekend and all went well apart from one thing: the LCD won't go on when it's below any significant depth (10-15m) either by manually pressing the button or automatically after taking a shot which makes checking the histogram a bit tricky. If I'm shallower there isn't a problem which makes we think that it's a misaligned button getting pressed by the water which is blocking the LCD on function. Does anyone have any idea which button would do this and how to fix it?

I'm no longer interested because you've ignored my email and my post here. Good luck with your sale.

Hi Marianne, I'm interested in your 8" dome. I'm in the UK. How much do you want for the dome and what will postage be? Alistair

Has anyone had any success in sourcing Micro Mesh in the UK. The website given doesn't ship anywhere but the US.

Maybe... just maybe... http://nikonrumors.com/2012/10/03/at-least-one-new-nikon-camera-to-be-announced-by-the-end-of-2012.aspx/

I spoke to Kevin at Aquaphot. He said it's very unusual for the LED light to fail before the rest of the strobe and it was likely to be my battery. I tried swapping the batteries on the two strobes and this makes no difference so that looks like a red herring. Kevin wasn't optimistic about getting spares from Ikelite but reckons he may be able to do something - I'll probably send it to him once winter sets in properly. I'm not terrifically keen to send it to Ikelite as it's already been repaired under warranty twice.

I have two Ikelite DS160s and one one the light (but not the flash) no longer works. Is this something I can fix myself or do I need to send it away? What sort of cost am I looking at? I'm in the UK. Thanks