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DanInSoCal

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About DanInSoCal

  • Rank
    Lionfish
  • Birthday 08/01/1970

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Diego, CA
  • Interests
    Underwater photography (duh!), in addition to scenic, nature, portrait, and landscape photography. I am also a karate instructor, professional scientific software developer, and father.

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sony RX-100 V
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    2x Inon z240
  • Accessories
    BigBlue light, ULCS arms
  1. Paul, underexposing does not in itself cause noise; only trying to correct that in postprocessing does (by amplifying shadow noise in underexposed areas). Maybe it's a semantic difference, but I feel it's an important one. I am not sure what you mean about "shooting to the right incorrectly exposes an image". If you shoot to the right taking care to not blow out any highlights, you are maximally using (getting the highest possible signal to noise ratio from) your digital sensor. You can of course decrease the exposure in postprocessing a bit, without adding any noise. In general, sharpness is not a function of exposure, within a wide range of reasonable parameters. Regards, Dan
  2. I agree with many that there is no strong correlation between proper exposure and "sharpness". One setting that does pop out to me that will affect the resolving power of your system is "f/20". Except for the finest macro lenses, and even then sometimes, you will start to see diffraction-limited decrease in resolving power as you head smaller than f/16. In general, I find the things that limit my sharpness are focus accuracy and subject movement. Proper exposure affects other things but not sharpness. Shoot RAW, expose to the right, and all will be good. Regards, Dan
  3. I have the Mark V. I don't intend to upgrade. The issue is that big ol' strange port that will destroy compatibility with the WWL-1 and CMC-2 lenses I have. For underwater I think that the extra zoom isn't the right answer, and it's better to get the enhanced Mark V. Regards, Dan
  4. I just got one to use with a Sony RX100-V (Nauticam housing obviously). It's a beast. It's like four pounds of glass. For a trip to Cozumel, for the types of things that like to shoot, it was just TOO wide angle; I kept finding myself trying to zoom more. Optically it performs magnificently. I am sure that there will be situations where it will be amazing. I look forward to exploring its uses when I can slow down and compose wide angle shots and video better.
  5. I did not. I just sent you a PM with my email address.
  6. I am selling a Sony NEX-5N interchangeable-lens mirrorless camera in an Aquatica housing. Included are: - NEX-5N camera with battery, charger, and kit 17-55mm equivalent lens - Aquatica AN-5N housing with the matching plexiglass dome port, double handles, and extended shutter release - Sola 600 white/red focus light with two chargers - Various accoutrements -- extra O-rings, a strobe cable for an Inon strobe if you want it Paid ~$2500, asking $1000 OBO. Please don't low-ball me, but reasonable offers will be considered. This is a fantastic starting kit for someone getting serious about underwater photography. The camera is small and lightweight, and takes excellent detailed images. It's also a great land camera, for that matter. You can purchase any number of E-mount lenses and compatible Aquatica ports, in particular, a highly rated macro lens is available. This package does not come with any strobes, I cannibalized the strobe I had been using, onto my new setup. Why did I get rid of this? I moved up, basically, to a more capable setup at, of course, a much higher price point. Such is life. This kit is impeccably maintained. The only deficit is a few small scratches on the dome, which are only visible when you shoot straight up into the sun. Does not come with the scorpionfish. This is a 100% crop to show the detail the camera is capable of.
  7. I am selling a Sony NEX-5N interchangeable-lens mirrorless camera in an Aquatica housing. Included are: - NEX-5N camera with battery, charger, and kit 17-55mm equivalent lens - Aquatica AN-5N housing with the matching plexiglass dome port, double handles, and extended shutter release - Sola 600 white/red focus light with two chargers - Various accoutrements -- extra O-rings, some boxes, a strobe cable for an Inon strobe if you want it Paid ~$2500, asking $1100 OBO. Please don't low-ball me, but reasonable offers will be considered. This is a fantastic starting kit for someone getting serious about underwater photography. The camera is small and lightweight, and takes excellent detailed images. It's also a great land camera, for that matter. You can purchase any number of E-mount lenses and compatible Aquatica ports, in particular, a highly rated macro lens is available. This package does not come with any strobes, I cannibalized the strobe I had been using, onto my new setup. Why did I get rid of this? I moved up, basically, to a more capable setup at, of course, a much higher price point. Such is life. This kit is impeccably maintained. The only deficit is a few small scratches on the dome, which are only visible when you shoot straight up into the sun. Does not come with the scorpionfish. This is a 100% crop to show the detail the camera is capable of.
  8. Thanks everyone. I'll post something in a few weeks once I get the housing back from Ikelite and the light and attachments from Backscatter; and I actually get a chance to go diving with them. Dan
  9. Wow, so many replies, I can't even count them! In any case, after some additional digging and realizing how very large this light is, I think I'm going to go for the Bossk Al 1x5 (which is much, much smaller). Thanks, Dan
  10. This may be slightly off topic, but I am curious as to your desire for a fast prime here. Is it just a bright viewfinder? If so I can totally understand! But I couldn't imagine shooting at below, say, f/5.6 underwater. That said, either of the two lenses you mentioned (as well as the Sigma 30/1.4) are good. Regards, Dan
  11. Ikelite recently upgraded their housings with some cool new features -- four port clips rather than two; and a 1/4" x 20 threaded attachment at the top, perfect for a focus light. I called them, and they will do an annual service (replace all seals, test electronics, pressure test the housing) plus install the two additional clips and the thread for $200. Seems quite reasonable to me! Just thought I would pass this along. Regards, Dan
  12. Hi, all. I am looking at this light: Bossk BigBlue FF-1x5W LED Focus Light Anyone have any experience with it? It looks just fine as a focus light, has auto-shut-off when strobe is detected, all that good stuff; comes with a ULCS-compatible ball; and lacks the massive sticker shock of other lights. Thanks much, Dan
  13. No -- the amount of shock that the animal can generate is size-dependent. There are specialized muscles that act as batteries. The total amount of electrical energy that can be delivered is dependent on the amount of this muscle present. This little cutie can probably cause a zap, but it'll be a AAA cell as compared to a car battery for an adult. Dan
  14. Roy Caldwell's mantis site is here: http://www.ucmp.berkeley.edu/arthropoda/cr...traca/royslist/ The "checkerboard" appearance of the mantis' eyes made me think immediately of Pseudosquilla ciliata. However, it will be difficult to get a definitive ID from this picture. Dan
  15. Karen, I went through the same thing some months ago. One thing that really helped me was that my ISP -- the people I got my internet domain from -- provided a bunch of different tools that were easily installed. I looked at a lot of the photo gallery tools and settled on "ZenPhoto". It was straightforward to customize. Take a look: http://www.dangehlhaar.com/gallery Significantly, it took care of the whole "watermarking" thing for me. I uploaded a watermark and ZenPhoto applies it dynamically when the picture is viewed. That "Dan Gehlhaar Photography" image is stuck on there by the gallery software (so I didn't have to edit each image!). Before diving into this too deeply I suggest looking at your gallery software. This might be a "solved problem". Regards, Dan
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