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About ckhorne

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  • Location
    Atlanta, GA

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Housing
    Aquatica 5DII
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon 240z

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  1. Selling my Sigma 150mm f/2.8 EX DG OS HSM APO Macro Lens (For Canon). Please note that this is the newer OS / Image Stablized version with the smooth finish. Excellent condition - no scratches, marks, or otherwise to glass or body. Sale includes lens, tripod mount (not shown in pictures), lens hoods for both FF and Crop cameras, carrying case and strap. I'm willing to trade for a Canon 100mm IS in same condition. Will only ship to North America. Price: $900 shipped via US to CONUS.
  2. Here's hoping that Aquatica (or possibly other manufacturer's, but since I use Aquatica.... ) will have an option to purchase a new backplate, instead of a whole new housing. I imagine that just the back plate will be $1000, but that'd be better than re-buying the entire housing to go from 5D2 to 5D3. Having said that, I'm not sure if the 5D3 will offer enough of an upgrade to be worthwhile. If they had updated the 1/200 sync speed, then it'd be a no brainer...
  3. Thanks. Absolutely. Just can't seem to find time these days. I'll be headed to the Solomons again this fall, but trying to get something/anything in before then!
  4. I've got some news about a new iPad app that I've been working on, and I'd like to post it somewhere here on the wetpixel community, but I'm not sure how to go about doing so without stepping on toes with a commercial post. It's of direct interest to people here (in fact, the idea for the app started while on a dive trip). How should I go about submitting a news article?
  5. Finally got everything working, and I have the same problem. I don't have a reference point of what it was doing before the 2.0.7 firmware, but I did find that to get proper exposure, I needed to set the exposure compensation on the HW converter board to +2.
  6. I will be in a few days when I get my housing back from Backscatter with new bulkheads. I'll report back here with what I find, although I've already upgraded to 2.0.7 myself. I'll be using Heinrich's OEM eTTL board, ordered just a month ago.
  7. This is the one that worked from me, from Reef Photo: ULCS AD-1420
  8. I always leave the neoprene on until I'm on my way down or on my way up. Except that the salt won't accumulate into "sandpaper" over time. Sure- you'll probably never get all the saltwater out of the neoprene with just rinsing, but you'll wash out the vast majority of the salt every time. Otherwise, putting on your your wetsuit would be horrific after several years... and when's the last time you saw any salt buildup on your wetsuit? An anecdotal story - I've been keeping saltwater reef tanks for more than 15 years now - mostly with acrylic tanks, and there's always the concern about scratching the acrylic. (Recent picture below of my current tank). In 15 years, I've never had any instances of salt causing scratches on acrylic. Sand and rocks, yes. Salt, no. Which leads me to believe that the hardness of salt is less than the hardness of acrylic. I'm not saying that it's not possible, but with as much as I deal with salt and acrylic, you would have think I'd have seen evidence of salt scratches by now... Either way, I think the risk of scratching by a boat operator or other divers is far greater than the possible salt buildup.
  9. FS: One barely used SeaTool Fisheye Port. SLDP-170WC Used on one dive trip (~30 dives). Glass is in perfect condition - no scratches or scuffs anywhere. Gear is fully operational. Extra O-ring included. $700 + shipping My parents own(ed) a SeaTool setup, and the housing was stolen by the airline handlers, so they're stuck with a couple odd parts. Feel free to contact me for questions, but I may need to relay the questions back to them if I can't answer them. Click for larger pictures: I also have two SeaTool zoom gears - one for Tokina Fisheye 10-17mm, and one for Canon 18-55mm kit lens: $50 ea + shipping I will ship internationally. Please contact me to arrange for shipping.
  10. Ouch - I didn't plan for weight requirements that low... Is that from the local carrier to Bali or the international airlines?
  11. Well, I'm stuck on land for the next 6 weeks with my shiny new Aquatica housing setup, so I thought I might as well figure out how I can best travel with it. I have Pelican 1514 with padding dividers that worked well for my previous housing, but my new setup seems to just be a little bit bigger, and adding an 8" dome port made the pelican almost worthless. After reading several threads about the dangers of pelican cases (being stolen or a target for theft if checked), I decided to check out ThinkTank's rolling bags. If I must check it, at least it won't look like a Pelican. The Airport International v2.0 fits in all international overhead compartments, the same as the Pelican. But it's much better made and has more room in the interior (and double the price tag). The ThinkTank is also 6lbs lighter (empty) than the pelican - not insignificant when you're trying to stay under 40lbs! As for the Think Tank bag itself- I can't speak highly enough about it - it's top notch quality. It looks smaller than the pelican, unless you place them side-by-side. It has three different TSA-compatible locks built into it (including one for the main zipper). I know everything mostly fit if I just threw it in there and hoped for the best. But the OCD in me always wins out, and I prefer to compartmentalize everything. So... I spent about two hours playing with velcro adapters. Here's what I was able to fit inside: Aquatica 5D2 housing 8" dome port + shade Flat port Port extension Two Inon strobes Fisheye FIX focus light + charger Two Arms + clamps Other accessories This covers my complete setup, from macro to wide angle, and everything except actual camera body and lenses. A couple of pictures (click for larger): (My other Inon strobe + arms hasn't arrive yet, so isn't in these pictures- it will sit on top of the existing Inon in the pictures). All equipment is snug, but in no danger of being crushed or broken. The dome port is in place with the protective shade, placed upside down, so that the shade rests on the bottom of the case. Port extension is attached and under the flat port. I decided to try fitting my camera gear in as well, and was astonished to get in the following as well: Canon 5D MkII body 15mm Sigma Fisheye Canon 17-40mm Canon 100mm L macro This takes a bit of work, and means that a couple non-critical items needs to be moved into check-in luggage (mainly, the second set of arms). The camera goes inside the housing for travel; not ideal (don't want the buttons pressing into the camera!), but I can't see where the camera would be damaged. I also had to wrap up a lens in a small towel and put it inside the flat port. I doubt I'll actually travel with the camera gear stuffed inside, but at least it's an option (particularly if I'm only allowed one carry on). I'll take some more pictures and do a final weighing (last I weighed it, it was 32 lbs) when I get all my new gear in. Hope this can help someone...
  12. Looking for an Inon Z-240 strobe. Type 3 or 4 preferred, but will take a type 2. PM me with any offers.
  13. Autofocusing while taking video isn't really feasible. You can, however, use the properties of the optics so that you have a large range in focus. For example, if you were to shoot video using a 5D MkII camera with a 17-40mm lens @ 17mm, you could use an aperture of f/8, and everything from 2.84 feet and further would be in focus. This means you could effectively focus before you start recording and almost everything would stay in focus. Depth of field calculator: http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html Also have a look at this article: http://www.backscatter.com/5D2
  14. James and Scubysnaps- Thanks for the replies - it looks like the 8" dome is it. I'm not sure all this will stuff into my Pelican case, but I guess I can move strobe arms or something into my checked luggage. Since we're on the topic... Do most people shoot wide angle with something like the 17-40 or with a fisheye? As I said in my original post, I used a 10-22mm on my crop factor camera (16-35 equiv), and felt it was wide, but not REALLY wide. I don't like the fisheye effect on land... will that be less noticeable underwater?
  15. I've sold my Hugyfot housing to a gentleman in Germany, so I'm about to purchase an Aquatica housing for my 5D mark II. One of my big complaints with the Hugyfot was edge sharpness when using my 10-22mm with their 4"(?) mini-dome, even with every combination of diopter I tried. So... I'd rather not repeat the same mistake again. Aquatica sells three dome ports - 6", 8", and 9". The 9" is out of my budget, which leaves the 6" and 8" domes. I don't want the same sharpness problems I had with my Hugyfot's 4" dome, but I still need to transport the new package around. Specifically, I really want all my UW camera gear to fit in my Pelican 1514, as it did before. If that won't be possible, then so be it, but the requirement is high on my list. So... what are the advantages of one size over the other? I don't do over/under shots (at least not on a regular basis), but are the other advantages of the larger dome? The price difference really isn't an issue at this point. Are there any limitations to the 6" dome that I'll run into? I'm looking at using the Canon 17-40mm and Canon 15mm fisheye lenses. Also, for size reference, what dome port is pictured in this gallery? The 6"?
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