Tim S

Thanks for the helpful & reassuring info! I just took a closer look at the pictures of the type 3 & 4 adaptors and now understand what you mean - the design is really good.

Hi, I'm planning to switch from Subal (D700) to Nauticam (D750) system. However I would like to keep using my Subal 8" fisheye dome port if possible. Does anyone out there got experience using the Subal dome port on a Nauticam housing via a Nauticam adaptor for Subal port? I believe the slight extension won't affect image sharpness as such. However my greatest concern is whether there's any vignetting with the slight extension from the adaptor ring. Any input is welcome!

The SMC do NOT fit the new Subsee adaptor for Subal port - I just tried it out today. The new Subsee adaptor use a clamp with o-ring mechanism instead of screw threads, so there's no way to screw in the SMC. And because the SMC do not have a straight cylindrical shape at the receptacle end, it cannot be secured by the clamp mechanism of the Subsee adaptor. It simply doesn't stay in. I'm trying to find out more from Nauticam HK about this issue, will come back if there's any update.

Hi Does any one know whether the SMC can be used on the new Reefnet (Subsee) adaptor for Subal port? Thanks!

Actually I've been quite comfortable shooting with manual for the past 4 years with my Subal ND700 (no TTL) . In fact i got better exposure results than the old days when I used TTL on film camera (F100). Recently I'm considering upgrading my set-up from Subal D700 to D800. Just wondering should I keep using manual or should I switch to TTL with FO sync (talking about macro shots only, for WA I would definitely stick to manual) ? I also heard (from another thread) that with TTL the shutter sync speed would be much limited - is this true or not? Any comments & suggestions?

the blue water is nice, but the foreground appears a bit too cool for me (at least on my monitor)...

Agree, I suppose the whole point is to use the "auto WB" function to cool down the background water to blue...

Thanks Alex, but why do you use the non-diffused ones for macro shooting?

Are there anyone who has used the new Inon Z240 Color Temperature Conversion Filter / diffuser? In your experience, what is the best choice for shooting Wide angle in tropical water? Color Temperature Conversion Filter (4900K)? Color Temperature Conversion Filter (4600K)? -0.5 (4900K) Diffuser 2 (TTL/Manual)? -0.5 (4600K) Diffuser 2 (TTL/Manual)? My preliminary thought is that, as the Inon Z240 has some degree of light fall off, the -0.5 diffuser option may be better but that will mean loss of half-stop of light. Is the 4600K too strong for tropical waters? Thanks!

Thanks everyone. I'm convinced. Just bought a 16-35 to replace my oldish 17-35. Can't wait to bring it underwater!

I have used both C & N systems topside. Basically they are quite comparable and the differences are not as much as one would like to believe. However for underwater photography if you are used to TTL then you probably need one that has built-in flash, otherwise you have to shoot in manual. The ergonomics design of C & N cameras is different as pointed out above. I belong to those who like button controls more than navigating through menus, both underwater and topside ...

Looking for an optimal soft-cover rigid case for check-in. To me the mid-sized Lightware cases are too shallow for housings & dome ports etc. (other models are way too big). Has anyone used the Versa-flex case? They have cases that are 8.5" deep, with much more size options than lightware...

loftus, I suppose you're using the Subal FE dome for the 16-35 with no diopter? Do you think it's OK regarding edge sharpness? (that is my main concern). Some guys say that you need a 230 dome but to me that's a PITA for packing etc. I rather stick to the FE port if possible.

I agree that much depends on the subject matter. But I have also found that with rectilinear zoom, I tend to stay at the wide end most of the time, so it really boils down to the image quality versus distortion issue. Personally I prefer the FE perspective more. In this previous thread: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=31397 you prefer the fisheye with TC to wide rectilinear on FX, so I suppose the new 16-35 with improved image quality has tipped the balance?

For all the full frame shooters - how often your wide angle rectilinear (16/17-35) got used ? especially when compared to: 1. the Fisheye, and 2. Fisheye + TC combo ? Are you using the WA rectilinear mostly at the widest end? and if yes why not just stick to the FE + TC which is much lighter, with less drag in water ?

Search the forum - there were several threads on this topic. The Kenko 1.4X Teleplus Pro 300 should be a good choice. Not familiar with S&S system but I think you need ~20mm extension.

I know there has been several posts on the Zen mini-dome already, but most have focussed on the Tokina 10-17 combo. Being a full-frame shooter I don't have this lens option as such and I'm not keen on the Tokina+ teleconverter option either. Has anyone in this forum used the Sigma 15mm FE + Kenko 1.4 TC combo behind the Zen DP-100 mini-dome? 1. How is the image quality? (pictures welcome) 2. How much extension you need? - Is the EXR 33mm good enough? Thanks!

Yesterday I experiment with the 16mm behind the FE port and found that without the filter it focuses ~3cm closer than with the filter on. So I probably go without the filter and use f11-13 (or ? even 16) for the DOF. Alex the above picture is brilliant. Can you share the lighting technique in this shot? Is the FE port in the way? In case of WA macro shots, how small a dome do one need? Is the Subal SWB good enough? My housing got a Mark 4 mount and I think the old 4" dome is no longer available...

Thanks to Loftus & Alex for very useful input...

Hi, I plan to try out the Nikkor 16mm fisheye + 1.4x teleconverter combo. I know there were a few threads on a similar topic but there are still some points I want to further discuss and clarify... 1. Do you remove the rear filter on the 16mm when using the teleconverter? and why? (and why not?) 2. On a Subal FE port, do you need extra extension ring or not? Would appreciate input especially from those of you who are using this technique... Tim

Hi, I'm almost sure that it's the ACC switch. I just got two new Z-240 strobes with me now, and in the past week I have carried out extensive testing on their operation with my Subal ND700. Here are my findings: With The ACC switch in the "down" position you got full manual control with 12 EV steps as described in the manual. But when I kept the ACC switch in the "up" position, the flash power stayed constant and the only variable I can control is the aperture of my camera. I think the original Inon User Manual isn't very clear on this point. Indeed I tried to email Inon Japan about this but no reply was obtained yet. I suspect that when the ACC switch is in the "up" position, the strobe is led to believe that your camera has a pre-flash and therefore limit the strobe output to a constant maximum in order to avoid over-exposure. (something Inon has confusingly called "manual+TTL auto"??) That's why the manual switch can no longer control the amount of output in that situation.