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Everything posted by jmauricio

  1. Laz Ruda is one of, if not, the best guide on the bridge. You can pm me for email details or reach out via Pura Vida (linked to above). I've dove at the bridge multiple times and still seek out Laz. He's awesome
  2. I'm totally cheating as well. I made a conscious effort of late to create depth in my wide angle images. This is not the best one, but shows what I mean and I like it because of the sense of motion conveyed. This was my first time shark diving. I'm hooked. Sadly I was a little too excited to take any proper photos but I was pretty happy with this one
  3. Were you able to speak to Kevin? Did you decide any course of action?
  4. Very basic b&w convert in lightroom. i adjusted the sliders to drive more contrast.
  5. Nothing wrong with shooting up. I think it works. perhaps turn the strobes off next time. if the subject isn't very close, you don't get the benefit of the light but all the downside of lighting up particulate inbetween. I would try it in B&W. Very hard to edit otherwise given the amount of backscatter.
  6. nice hammerhead encounters. Very nice images overall. what are you using for wide angle? Very odd behaviour for the lens. are you saying you can't do back button auto focus? I don't have the 50mm nor the nex 6 so if this is redundant to you, i apologize. for macro, I typically have my nex 7 set to manual focus and the AEL/AF/MF button set to af/ml control under the custom keys settings. So => Menu/Setup/Custom Key Settings. I notice the NEX 6 only has an AEF button where I have a toggle. That said, I would have thought it would be customizable. I would think the trick would be to move af to a back button process and take the lens and shutter out of it. Hopefully this helps and its not something so obvious that you've already tried
  7. I've been a few times and really like Birds Underwater and they have come highly recommended by others here too. Birds is great as they go out earlier than a lot of other tours, so you get one on one time with Manatees.. Definitely bring strobes & fins. Strobes bc when you first get in, its dark. Water is a constant 72 degrees f due to the springs. Air temp can be in the low 30s-60s. widely variable. keep in mind you are not swiming much, mainly just floating, so you will feel the cold esp when you come up. I'm a native floridian so 5mm-7mm would be my choice. Some of the guides go in Dry suit, but that is overkill. There are loads of hotels around. Do a google search but all the holiday inns, quality inns, etc are covered there. As said previously, the manatees will seek interaction if you mind your own business. they they like puppies. relax and they will come to you. One other thing. its illegal to submerge while swimming with the manatees. so practice "shooting from the hip" if you want upward facing shots.
  8. Yes, i would go with two strobes. you will need two for wide angle coverage and if you are not able to get very close to the sharks you will need the power. its really important to be close. as is the golden rule with UW photography
  9. I would suggest you run with the 16+fe adapter. You will be fine. just will have to get close! Another option is to buy the wide angle adapter to the 16mm. this gives you 12mm (i think) rectilinear. it works with the 4.33 dome. Then you have a choice before you go in the water 10mm FE or 12mm rectilinear.
  10. I wouldn't buy the rokinon 8mm. Not sure with the 5n, but with my nex 7 it has purple fringing. you also lose aperture and focus control. I would say your 16mm with fisheye would be fine. Most shark photos tend to be shot with the 10-17 tokina fisheye. (16+FE = 10mm FE). switching to a sigma 19mm, which is rectilinear would significantly decrease your field of view vs the fe. I wouldn't bother. if you don't mind spending the money, you could go the 10-18 route but stick to the 10-14mm end of the spectum. Don't have the math but fov for 18mm fe vs 10mm rectilinear that is what you will want to consider.
  11. also lets hope there nex ports avail too along with fe.
  12. there have been loads. 90-100mm seems to be the consensus. I'd be happy with either at the moment.
  13. yes, just like nikon ff lens on aps c. same crop factor. i.e the 35 2.8 would be 52.5mm and 55mm would be 82.5mm So if Sony does indeed come out with a 100ish-mm macro for FE, as rumors suggest, then it would be similar to shooting a Nikon 105mm on a D7000. The NEX series would then have 30, 50 and 100mm macro options and the FE line would just have 100mm. (or the others in crop mode).
  14. Advice in order of importance Be Safe Have fun - really, don't put too much pressure on yourself Don't chase subjects - (i see you have a macro set up) if you see something larger, just enjoy the interaction, don't feel compelled to take a photo of everything. Get close - clearer photos & less scatter High shutter speed/mid to high strobe power for black backgrounds; Low shutter speed for natural light backgrounds. have fun
  15. without a doubt they work http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3673537#forum-post-53712948 am loathe to buy any e mount lens that is not FE at the moment. Hence I wanted to ask about the sony 50mm before buying
  16. Thanks for the reply. Was just curious. I have the 30mm. Will continue holding out for whatever FE macro option is rumored for year end Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  17. has anyone tried the 50mm 1.8 attached to two extension tubes (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007RDAV02/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2OFI12A5HBP2B&coliid=I3HTGN7IBF2TK1)? any guess to the expected results?
  18. my humble opinion... Nice image overall. I like how the dolphins and boat line up. I like the blue in the bottom 2/3 of the frame, I don't like the surface color in the top 1/3. It looks too washed out/over processed. Perhaps play with your white point or selective white balance The blotch or speck or bubbles in the bottom left quadrant is distracting. I would clone out or crop. Perhaps consider black & white conversion?
  19. If you are planning to dive. I would highly recommend that you focus on learning to dive properly and leave the camera for another time. Its a lot of effort to pay attention to your diving and trying to take photos. Diving is dangerous enough as it is. i would emphasize working on your buoyancy. This has some significant advantages. 1) you won't destroy the reefs 2) you won't scare the fish away. 3) when you do start bringing a camera underwater, you can more easily focus on the photography and not have to worry about numbers 1 & 2. I realize this may be a disappointing answer. In diving we have a concept called task loading, which is doing too many things at once. You will find it much more enjoyable learning your diving skills first before bringing a camera with you. There are several examples of professional underwater photographers putting the camera away while they learn new diving skills such as dry suit or trimix. If you are snorkeling. I would recommend you bring something small and light. Maybe an AW120 or a smaller compact. These can be had fairly inexpensively esp with the OEM housing. As for the aw120. I don't have any experience with it first hand but here is an underwater sample image and a good example of the fov you will get out of 24mm. http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=53157&do=findComment&comment=347768 Without strobes you will want to stay shallow to maximize the available light. Good luck and have fun.
  20. That seems like a really odd response from them. They released a promo video of a German photog using the 50mm macro for studio portraits! I get that UW photographers are not their core target market, but its absurd to think someone shooting macro would not need flash. There are loads of examples of flash based macro (ring lit bugs or flowers, back lit bugs/flower, product photography, etc). Sounds like they just BS'ed you.
  21. here is a list of options available http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=45055&p=342667 I think the most common stock options will be 30mm macro with the nauitcam 45 Macro port 16mm+FE Adapter behind the 4.33in Dome Also the 10-18mm looks a decent non fisheye WA contender. Unfortunately, there are not a ton of options. Fortunately the options are easy to digest.
  22. Hi, welcome to wetpixel. In order to provide you with the best info we need some more detail. specifically What is your prior diving experience? What are you hoping to photograph in Sipadan (W/A or Macro) Do you have access to underwater strobes? Underwater is a completely different beast than on land. Generally speaking you want to be as close to your subject as possible. This usualy means use of wide angle lenses to get close to your subject but get it all in the frame at the same time. Also, water changes the properties of a lens slightly. eg a 24mm underwater behind a flat port might be more like a 35mm FoV (not exact math). hence we use dome ports in order to restore the correct field of view. All this said, your 24mm might not be wide enough for your purposes underwater (if considering wide angle subjects like turtles, schools, etc). definitely not behind a flat port that you might find on the ewa-marine U-BXP100. Nor are the lenses you suggest particularly good for macro either. There are a plethora of options out there and any more detailed info you can provide would help us give you the best advice.
  23. My nauticam Handle broke. Not sure when/where. I soaked my housing and let it dry before breaking down and the handle just fell off. Do handles need special care? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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