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fongalv

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fongalv last won the day on December 22 2015

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About fongalv

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  1. Like I mentioned in my earlier post, the dome came a little fiddly, the lens hood locking screws were not long enough to lock the shades in place, so when mounting/unmounting was causing the screws to scratch against the inner surface because the plastic hood was the only thing you could grab onto. The plastic hood was also flexing a little which made tightening the locking screws impossible. I sent just the dome back for a refund, and I found a used h100 for a very good price. The most expensive component in this updated rig was the dome unit 2 which I bought new. It's also the heaviest and the whole rig was still pretty negative with all the stix floats.
  2. I will try to offer a slightly different perspective since most people are advocating you drop the idea of wanting to do both wide and macro. Being also an avid topside photographer, i believe it really depends on your proficiency and shooting style. There will always be people who prefer to walk around with a 28-300mm lens while others are happy enough with a 35mm. There are also those who enjoy lugging around a bag full of lenses. I started underwater photography several years back with an s90 with a subsee +10, an ufl165, a small focus light, and a single strobe. While it was not the dream full blown setup, it was really compact, and enabled me to shoot very decent wide and macro subjects which gave results I was pretty satisfied with. This is more so especially when I do not have the luxury to go on dive trips more than once or twice a year, so limiting my dives to wither WA or macro only per dive does not achieve what I personally want to do with the rig, and that's enjoying and capturing the beautiful underwater scenery(do note I'm more of a landscape photographer). Having said all that, I just returned from a trip to the Maldives with an upgraded rig( rx100m3 in a cheap plastic housing, uwl-h100+dome, LD adapters/lens holders, same arms, same strobe, same subsee). I must admit that due to the nature/dynamics of the dive group, I rarely had the chance/opportunity to spend time on macros(adjusting lighting, manual focus, etc). I had the WA on for 75% of the time, with the remaining 25% with the naked camera port so I can zoom in on subjects that stayed far away(hunting sharks/barracudas, at cleaning stations, etc). Still, I was really glad to be able to bayonet the WA on/off, or half the photos would have really small subjects within the frame(being able to crop a 20mp raw also helps!)
  3. I too am on a dive trip now, and setup my lenses with the inon LD mount adapters, and always tethered with a fishing line. Even then it doesn't let water in, so I just have to mount it underwater, which is less of an issue with the bayonet mount. Everything has been working fine this far, and there are 2 more meikon/nb branded users on this trip with no issues this far(keeping fingers crossed). Just find it strange that the similiar range G16 housings have double o-ring and no leak sensor. With regards to manual settings, the aperture should be in the front ring in M mode. To change shutter speed, you have to go into S mode and use the front ring to adjust, before changing back to M mode. A hassle it is for sure, but I generally keep shutter speed at 1/125 to freeze motion.
  4. +1 for divervision. Bought twice, delivered to SE Asia via EMS over 4 days(inclusive weekend), and DHL in 2 weekdays. Charges were very reasonable(bordering cheap) as well.
  5. I just realised when I last looked up the prices when I purchased, it was 11th Nov, and they had some massive sale(similar to black Friday I guess). I got the plastic housing+ dome + shipping at USD$243 while it's back to USD$305 now. I guess I still got good price break considering the issues I have with the dome. You can still purchase via the mobile app and get 6% off.
  6. Lwang is right about the vignetting, which is great for me!. Did a quick test in my sink, results are self explanatory. I realised the m67 mount does not let in water easily(coming from AD mount). So I had to literally screw the lens in when underwater. Anyone has any advice on this? threads are metal, so I can't really drill a weep hole.
  7. I believe that's because the h100 is meant for a 28mm native mount, which is the widest for the mk1/2. The mk3/4 are 24mm at widest, and when you zoom to 28mm, the front element of the camera lens retracts further from the housings flat port, which is probably why it needs to go a little beyond 28mm before vignetting goes away. Sent from my SGP321 using Tapatalk
  8. I would have gone for the fantasea if I didn't chance upon the plastic Mk4 housing at a great price. If you check out aliexpress, the alu Mk4 housing is about usd$500 with free shipping, which puts it at the same price as the fantasea, while the plastic Mk4 housing is less than usd$200. Oh, and one more thing to note is that I could almost get an image with a slightly wider FOV when I cropped the vignetting image as compared to the "zoomed in till it stops vignetting" image, so I would just save the trouble of zooming in while underwater and crop in post instead...
  9. Alright, its dark here, so I had to adjust the exposure on some of the photos really quickly. I've also took some photos with the camera from within the housing: With the h100m67(type 2) screwed directly to the meikon housing port, the vignetting almost disappears by 30mm. I next unscrewed the h100 and placed some step up/down rings to simulate a bayonet adapter. results were not good. I had to zoom in ALOT before the vignetting goes away, and clearly(pun unintended), the quality and clarity of the image becomes almost unusable. In fact, I had to zoom in until it was close to the FOV of the 24mm flat port without wet lens, so it renders the additional wet lens almost useless. This test/result demonstrates that the distance between the housing port and rear element of the wet lens also plays an important role. As the h100 I have is a m67 type 2(rear element flush with m67 threads), I will be ordering a type 1 screw ring(rear element protrudes out from m67 threads) to see if I can get the rear element even closer to the housing glass. I would eventually like to adapt the h100 into a LD bayonet mount.
  10. I suppose we need to he clear which version of rx100 we are talking about, and perhaps also which version of the uwl? I did a quick and dirty test by directly mating the h100m67 directly to the front of my rx100m3, and there was vignetting at 24mm. Vignetting was gone by the time I zoomed in to 28mm. To be sure, I'll post some proper photos from within the housing when I get home.
  11. I can't speak for the aluminium housing, but I've got the black/clear mk4 housing for my mk3. Main reason being the meikon acrylic housing for mk3 is the "all clear" type which I've read is less reliable. From what I've read, the mk4 camera is so slightly wider around the buttons that it wouldn't work in a properly made mk3 housing, that's why most manufacturers had to retool a new housing, with fantasea making a mk4 housing that would also fit a mk3 camera. Have only managed to do a pool test this far and all functions seem to work(less rear dial since it lacks one). With regards to the housing, the space between the lens at widest setting, is arpund 2-3mm from what I can see. Without any means to measure accurately, I folded a small piece of paper 3 times and inserted it into the housing and it seems right smack against the glass. I've tried to mate it with my old ufl-165ad with adapters and it was vignetting quite badly even when the port and rear element was really close. Zooming in doesn't help, so one must crop afterwards. I'll be picking up a uwl-h100 later today to see how it performs. Edit: The meikon dome on the other hand is not as well built as the housing. My unit came with a loose lens shade and a missing screw. As the other screws were a little short to begin with, there's no way I can lock the shade with the plastic shades that flex when I tighten the screw. Seller is asking me to ship it back before sending a replacement [emoji21]
  12. I know what you mean. I've actually sent them a picture of their housing for the g7x which has double o-ring, as well as the rear dial, asking if they had an equivalent for the rx100, and they sent me the image of the alu housing... The housing I got do come with the leak sensor, and you are right on the dome. The rear element is glass while the dome itself is acrylic. The 67mm threads on the dome are metal tho, and I do not deny that the Meikon dome does feel a little flimsy, I had to tighten the screws on the sunshade as it was loose. Regardless, I will probably try to convert it to ad mount if possible as I also have a 67mm subsee that's already ad converted. Screwing the 67mm threads is not something I want to do underwater! Sent from my SGP321 using Tapatalk
  13. I'm coming from a fisheye fix s90 housing, so I can forsee slight isues in full manual control, but I believe there is a work around(which I haven't tried), by changing to Shutter Priority and switching back. Still not a deal killer until I put it to test. I was under the impression that the dome was made of glass based on the review here: http://www.lcimagery.com/2014/05/meikon/ In anycase, I should be able to test the housing this weekend at the pool. I also do have the inon ufl165 which I previously used with the s90, so I will test it with both. I do not dive regularly anymore, hence the apparent downgrade and reluctance to invest in more expensive housing or in new wet lenses. I'm willing to jump for the fantasea, but the.meikon+dome was half the price of the fantasea after shipping, and seemed like a pretty good deal so long as it performs adequately. I've spoken to the meikon guys on facebook and it seems like the aluminium housings would be "officially launched" during the hk dive expo in Dec.
  14. I've just ordered the "newer" half black housing together with a dome. Will report back when it gets to me. One thing I don't really like is the lack of the rear wheel control, but for the price I can't really complain. Another alternative would be the fantasea housing(with rear wheel), but that's much more expensive.
  15. Looking for the above fisheye lens. If you have one that you are intending to let go, please PM me here or email me directly: fongalv (at) gmail (dot) com Thank you for reading!
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