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casbba last won the day on March 22 2017

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  1. Sure, so in the menu it's: Custom>Focus/Release Shutter>AF/AE Lock>AF-On. This appears to work regardless of the setting (AFS/AFF, AFC or MF) on the back button. Hope it works for you!
  2. I recently upgraded from a GH4 to GH5 camera, and like a lot of members here found the back focus button wouldn’t work with the GH5 once a monitor was connected and switched on. A lot of internet searching offered no working solution so I figured a ‘half press’ on the shutter release was my only option if I wanted to use a monitor. Then a friend (who also runs a GH5) provided the answer, at least for me. He suggested I set HDMI Record Output to 1080 rather than 4K or auto, and it worked! So, in the menu: Motion Picture>HDMI>Rec Output>Down Convert>1080… (p or i). Good luck!
  3. Hi there, I can't seem to find much information on these adapters. Are they for DSLR housings or would they fit a mirrorless housing? Thanks, John
  4. Here's an approach I've used to trim my Nauticam/GH4/lights combo, but a similar method could be applied to balance any rig that's unstable in water. The buoyancy chamber is a length of 100mm dia PVC pipe with a screw on cap (o ring sealed) on one end, and a CCTV dome glued on the other - just for show really (Pic 1). There's a 'rail' made from strips of PVC glued to the bottom of the chamber (Pic 2) and this slides into the C adapter shown in Pic 3. The length of the chamber is such that that the whole setup is slightly negative in seawater - that takes a bit of trial and error. The rig sits horizontal in mid water when the chamber is horizontal, but will point up or down as the chamber is rotated through the vertical axis. Also, the chamber can be slid back or forth to balance other lens/port combinations. If extra stability is needed for tripod shots I let a little sea water into the chamber pre-dive to make the rig heavier. Having a removable back also allows it to be packed with fragile bits 'n pieces on trips. The tricky part is the aluminium 'bridge' fitted to the handles, and a friend skilled in metalwork designed and made that for me. Lots of extras can be attached to it - monitor, computer, compass etc. It's simple but beautifully balanced and works well.
  5. Just out of interest, I ran a thin line of super glue into the cracks as an interim measure until I can get some more PU rings. Surprisingly it held, no leaks after another three dives.
  6. I've got the sitech quick cuff ring system in my drysuit and recently noticed a leak in one of the sleeves. On investigation I found the soft PU ring that's glued into the suit has small cracks in quite a few places and obviously needs replacing. The suit has around 350 dives on it. Anyone else had this problem?
  7. Thanks for the follow up Bill, sounds like that might be the problem. I'll still wait to see if I can try it on another MFT camera and decide where to go from there. At least this gives me a ball park figure of possible cost.
  8. Thanks Chris, Bill. I'd already cleaned the contacts on both lens and camera but did so again just to be sure - same result I'm afraid. As I said I'll try the lens on another m43 when I can get my hands on one and go from there. Thanks both for your help.
  9. Interestingly I've checked the locating holes in the Lumix lenses and the Zuiko. The bottom of the holes in both Lumix lenses I have is bare metal, while the bottom of the hole in the Zuiko lens appears to have some sort of thin foam covering it. It doesn't appear to be foreign material and why this would suddenly present a problem is a mystery. I'm in Tassie and a long way from any camera repair specialist, so my first step will probably be to try the 9-18 lens on someone else's mft, Olympus and/or Panasonic, and take it from there.
  10. Thanks for the speedy response Chris. I'm pretty sure the pin is being properly seated in the locating hole of the lens. I'd already checked the hole to make sure there was no obstruction, and that it appeared deep enough to take the length of the pin. Also I can hear the pin click into place when the lens is attached. I have two other lenses (both Lumix) that work fine with the camera, as this one has done up until now, but it would certainly be worth trying the lens on another m43 camera and I'll do that when I get the chance. Other than that I might just have to bite the bullet and have it repaired. Thanks again, John
  11. I have an Olympus ED 9-18 mft lens which was working fine on my GH4 about a year ago. Since then it's been sitting quietly on a shelf in a sturdy container, no bumps, knocks or falls. But when I attached it to the GH4 yesterday and powered up, the camera emitted three strange sounds and came up with the error message 'Lens attachment failed. Please make sure the lens is attached correctly.' Detaching and re-attaching the lens gave the same result, as did cleaning contacts on both camera and lens. My first thoughts are moisture/electrical, but before I rush out and spend who knows how much to have it looked at, has anyone had a similar experience and can possibly offer a solution? Thanks in advance, John
  12. When I recently started using an NA-GH4 housing I found I was guessing which way to turn the housing control for camera on/off. I was concerned about putting pressure on the camera switch so used a paint marker on black electrical tape to spell it out - it's not pretty but it works.
  13. Breakages aside, I don't understand why Nauticam can't come up with some sort of material for the handgrip itself that doesn't start to deteriorate after a few years.
  14. Here's a method I've used to successfully modify short micro/mini HDMI cables for a monitor used with both a D7000 and a GH4 camera (mini and micro connectors respectively). It's not pretty but it works. I should mention that I'm using Ikelite housings so have a little more internal room to play with than there would be with the Nauticams. Paring back the protector sheath and bending the connector so as not to damage the fine wiring takes a little bit of patience, but the cables are only a few dollars each so you can afford the odd mishap. I find using a grinder to pare away the sheath works best. Sourcing the correct length of cable might be a little tricky, but they're probably out there.
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