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Everything posted by casbba

  1. Hi there, I can't seem to find much information on these adapters. Are they for DSLR housings or would they fit a mirrorless housing? Thanks, John
  2. Here's an approach I've used to trim my Nauticam/GH4/lights combo, but a similar method could be applied to balance any rig that's unstable in water. The buoyancy chamber is a length of 100mm dia PVC pipe with a screw on cap (o ring sealed) on one end, and a CCTV dome glued on the other - just for show really (Pic 1). There's a 'rail' made from strips of PVC glued to the bottom of the chamber (Pic 2) and this slides into the C adapter shown in Pic 3. The length of the chamber is such that that the whole setup is slightly negative in seawater - that takes a bit of trial and error. The rig sits horizontal in mid water when the chamber is horizontal, but will point up or down as the chamber is rotated through the vertical axis. Also, the chamber can be slid back or forth to balance other lens/port combinations. If extra stability is needed for tripod shots I let a little sea water into the chamber pre-dive to make the rig heavier. Having a removable back also allows it to be packed with fragile bits 'n pieces on trips. The tricky part is the aluminium 'bridge' fitted to the handles, and a friend skilled in metalwork designed and made that for me. Lots of extras can be attached to it - monitor, computer, compass etc. It's simple but beautifully balanced and works well.
  3. Just out of interest, I ran a thin line of super glue into the cracks as an interim measure until I can get some more PU rings. Surprisingly it held, no leaks after another three dives.
  4. I've got the sitech quick cuff ring system in my drysuit and recently noticed a leak in one of the sleeves. On investigation I found the soft PU ring that's glued into the suit has small cracks in quite a few places and obviously needs replacing. The suit has around 350 dives on it. Anyone else had this problem?
  5. Thanks for the follow up Bill, sounds like that might be the problem. I'll still wait to see if I can try it on another MFT camera and decide where to go from there. At least this gives me a ball park figure of possible cost.
  6. Thanks Chris, Bill. I'd already cleaned the contacts on both lens and camera but did so again just to be sure - same result I'm afraid. As I said I'll try the lens on another m43 when I can get my hands on one and go from there. Thanks both for your help.
  7. Interestingly I've checked the locating holes in the Lumix lenses and the Zuiko. The bottom of the holes in both Lumix lenses I have is bare metal, while the bottom of the hole in the Zuiko lens appears to have some sort of thin foam covering it. It doesn't appear to be foreign material and why this would suddenly present a problem is a mystery. I'm in Tassie and a long way from any camera repair specialist, so my first step will probably be to try the 9-18 lens on someone else's mft, Olympus and/or Panasonic, and take it from there.
  8. Thanks for the speedy response Chris. I'm pretty sure the pin is being properly seated in the locating hole of the lens. I'd already checked the hole to make sure there was no obstruction, and that it appeared deep enough to take the length of the pin. Also I can hear the pin click into place when the lens is attached. I have two other lenses (both Lumix) that work fine with the camera, as this one has done up until now, but it would certainly be worth trying the lens on another m43 camera and I'll do that when I get the chance. Other than that I might just have to bite the bullet and have it repaired. Thanks again, John
  9. I have an Olympus ED 9-18 mft lens which was working fine on my GH4 about a year ago. Since then it's been sitting quietly on a shelf in a sturdy container, no bumps, knocks or falls. But when I attached it to the GH4 yesterday and powered up, the camera emitted three strange sounds and came up with the error message 'Lens attachment failed. Please make sure the lens is attached correctly.' Detaching and re-attaching the lens gave the same result, as did cleaning contacts on both camera and lens. My first thoughts are moisture/electrical, but before I rush out and spend who knows how much to have it looked at, has anyone had a similar experience and can possibly offer a solution? Thanks in advance, John
  10. When I recently started using an NA-GH4 housing I found I was guessing which way to turn the housing control for camera on/off. I was concerned about putting pressure on the camera switch so used a paint marker on black electrical tape to spell it out - it's not pretty but it works.
  11. Breakages aside, I don't understand why Nauticam can't come up with some sort of material for the handgrip itself that doesn't start to deteriorate after a few years.
  12. Here's a method I've used to successfully modify short micro/mini HDMI cables for a monitor used with both a D7000 and a GH4 camera (mini and micro connectors respectively). It's not pretty but it works. I should mention that I'm using Ikelite housings so have a little more internal room to play with than there would be with the Nauticams. Paring back the protector sheath and bending the connector so as not to damage the fine wiring takes a little bit of patience, but the cables are only a few dollars each so you can afford the odd mishap. I find using a grinder to pare away the sheath works best. Sourcing the correct length of cable might be a little tricky, but they're probably out there.
  13. Here are some earlier posts you could have a look at. It isn't the exact information you're after but might give you a few ideas. I've made a few more modifications since then and it's still working well. http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=52332&p=357141 http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=56374&p=365616 http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=56374&p=385557
  14. My apologies for the very slow reply to your query, I've only just revisited this post. Hopefully I can answer your question by explaining via the attached photo. Yes, the internal diameters of 1 and 2 need to be enlarged to allow the (pared down) micro HDMI plug to pass through them. However, the hole at the end of 2 needs to be kept small enough to retain the s/s washer 3. Washer 3 is cut and twisted to allow it to be placed over the cable, then twisted back into shape. I was able to stretch the rubber seal (4) over the micro HDMI plug, once the plastic sheathing on the plug had been carefully pared away. A little soapy water on the seal probably helped. I've never had any leaks with it, the cap (2) can be screwed down quite tightly onto seal (4) to ensure it's waterproof. The only problem I've had was where the cable emerged from the cap (2). It's a flex point and the wiring eventually failed. I addressed this by adding a piece of rigid 90 degree plastic tubing (from a garden irrigation system). I hope this helps but let me know if you need more info.
  15. Something a bit different. https://youtu.be/TRhtfQQBp6A
  16. Looks like the GH5 is a bit larger than the GH4, so could be problematic adapting a GH4 Ike housing to take it. I'd need to get my hands on one first so don't think I'll be rushing in at this stage.
  17. I'm using a GH4 for video in an Ikelite housing. Not being as compact as the alloy housings makes the Ikes a bit more roomy internally. If the GH5 is pretty much the same size as the GH4, I reckon the Ike controls could be modified to make it work, at least for video.
  18. Very nice Lutfu. But what about focus? Since you can't focus in vfr did you get out of it to focus, or just stay with a fixed focal distance for all the shots and rely on depth of field? Which lens were you using? Thanks.
  19. A large maori octopus turns the tables on a marauding swellshark. https://youtu.be/TMY1ZgkVo6Q
  20. A short video of southern reef squid (calamari) mating and laying in southern Australia. https://youtu.be/Wpbi4t8dp9U
  21. I used an old Ikelite bulkhead and strobe connector to connect a monitor to my camera housing. You'll need to carefully cut away the plastic/rubber protector sheath from the micro HDMI plug and enlarge the bores of both the bulkhead and male plug slightly so the plug can pass through. The plug and cable pass right throught the housing, and when removed can be sealed using an Iklelite bulkhead plug. You might need an HDMI adapter inside the housing to connect the micro lead to your camera.
  22. Have a look at this link. http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=38069&hl=casbba#entry323043
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