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Everything posted by bmorescuba

  1. I would classify them as intertidal algae and search for that. One might be Padina pavonica or close (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Padina_pavonica) The other sure looks like some type of Red Algae (Amphiroa), but there are so many varieties... Good luck
  2. #5/#7 is definitely a pipefish. Maybe Rough-ridge Pipefish (Cosmocampus banneri) ?? or Corythoichthys benedetto Not a lot of exemplars for the rarer pipefish. http://fishesofaustralia.net.au/home/species/3175
  3. One of my Red Sea ID books has Amphiprion sebae as occurring in the Red Sea. It specifically describes: "The second white bar extending along the top of the second dorsal fin, tail rounded." Sounds/looks like a possible match.
  4. Some possibilities: Caloria indica Godiva rachelae
  5. FOR SALE: Olympus TG-4 & PT-056 Housing Here's exactly what's included: Olympus TG-4 with latest firmware. Red color 1x Olympus LI-92B Battery 1x Olympus F-2AC-1B AC Adapter 2x Olympus USB charging/data cables (aftermarket, CB-USB8 compatible) 2x Wasabi BTR-LI90B-JWP Aftermarket batteries 1x Wasabi LCH-LI50b Wall Charger 1x Sandisk Ultra 32GB SDHC Memory Card (Class 10, 80MB/s) 1x Olympus CLA-T01 Converter adapter for the Fisheye and Tele Converter Lenses 2x 40.5mm lens caps for CLA-T01 Olympus PT-056 Underwater Housing for TG-4 (fits TG-3, too) 1x Olympus PRLC-14 body lens cap for PT-056 1x Oylmpus POL-053 O-ring for PT-056 1x Olympus Silca-5S silicon grease (cap broken) 1x Olympus PFUD-09 LCD Hood 1x Olympus PFCA-02 Optical fiber cable adapter a few spare Olympus desiccant packs designed for PT-056 Olympus o-ring picker Single Arm Tray from Optical Ocean Sales Here's a detailed description of the condition of each item. TG-4 - used, good condition. The shutter count on this camera is 4,071. Everything works. The waterproofness of the camera is intact (down to the rated 50ft.). Functionally, the camera has no issues. Cosmetically, I would rate it about 5/10. The lens has no scratches, but the rear LCD has several small ones. Some of the paint on the lettering has worn off. This camera has been used in pools, fresh water diving, and salt water diving. The biggest cosmetic issue for me is some salt water buildup around the screws surrounding the lens (see pic). I have always rinsed the camera after use, but when I first started using it, I didn't realize that you should remove the ring surrounding the lens while rinsing as well. If you rinse without doing this, salt water can remain inside this ring and cause minor corrosion on the screws.I have been using it in its current state for several years, so it's not a big deal. I replaced the standard lens ring cover with the CLA-T01. If you use the camera by itself underwater, leave the CLA-T01 on, then remove it when rinsing. If you use the camera in the housing, just remove the CLA-T01 (and add a POSR-053 if you have one) Batteries: All 3 batteries hold a charge, but I would not trust them for more than 1 dive (maybe 150 shots with flash on low power). PT-056 - used, very good condition. I doubt this has seen more than 20 ocean dives. There are no issues that I'm aware of. Some very minor cosmetic blemishes, but that's it. Due to the cosmetic issues of the TG-4, I'm going to price this low at $350 US. I will include PayPal fees and USPS shipping in that price. I would prefer to ship using USPS, but will consider international or other carriers at buyer's expense. A few more pics
  6. Opistognathus solorensis? (Solor Jawfish) There are yellow and non-yellow variations. This looks like the non-yellow variation.
  7. These look more like nudibranch egg ribbons to me Like these
  8. If you have any luck tracking them down, let me know. I'd be willing to trade for the ball mounts. I have 2 of the YS mounts that are unused. I previously used the YS mounts, but I found that the screw part was always subject to a lot of buildup (even after rinsing), so I prefer the direct ball mounts.
  9. So close, but not quite there. Those are more like Sea & Sea 22119 (https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/sea-sea-ball-mount-22119). Those have a completely flat bottom, whereas the piece that attaches to the strobe directly and replaces the normal YS adapter has a raised ridge to fit into an indentation. But thanks - I'll scour Ebay some more.
  10. Anyone know where I can pickup a couple Sea & Sea Ball Mount Strobe Adaptors? (their spelling, not mine) To be clear exactly what I'm talking about, here's an image from the manual and one installed. For the life of me, I can't find a place to buy this. Perhaps the search words are too generic - Sea, Ball, Mount... Thanks!
  11. Unless I'm reading the port charts wrong, I see a major limitation to this system on the m43 platform. You can use it with the 30mm macro lens (60mm ff equiv.) but you can't use the SMC1 or 2 with the 30mm lens. So, you're stuck with a usable (but somewhat underwhelming) macro solution and a super expensive wa solution. Cool idea, but it costs as much as the EM1MKII Nauticam housing...
  12. That's a bit of brain teaser. I have the same setup, but can't directly compare because I always shoot in manual. I can tell you that in manual, with strobes set to maximum power, I still get 100+ shots on one set of Eneloop pros. If we think about what the possibilities are...it doesn't make much sense. Besides strobe output (actually firing) the only thing that (theoretically) should be able to drain the batteries in a strobe would be a malfunction or short of some kind. If the problem manifested whenever the strobe dial was in TTL, then I could see that as an explanation. It's pretty unlikely that would happen in both strobes at the same time, though. But your experience is you can shoot in TTL sometimes and it's OK? A really telling experiment would be if you had access to another EM1ii or another YS-D1. You've eliminated the batteries themselves as a source of the issue, which would have been the most likely cause. If you had another D1 and it behaved similarly on your camera, that would point to something about the camera setup. I find it hard to conceive how camera settings could cause this, but I guess it's possible. If another D1 was fine on your camera, even with these settings, then it would point to a flaw in your strobes.
  13. Panasonic Lumix G Fisheye 8mm f/3.5 Lens for Micro Four Thirds Panasonic Part Number: H-F008 Includes original box, front & rear lens caps, manual, and pouch. Purchased new by me in US. Like New Condition, no blemishes. Never used outside of Nauticam housing. This lens has a 180° angle of view and a minimum focus distance of 4"/10cm. It's very small and light, good for travel. f/3.5 - f/22. It requires careful placement of strobes, but once you get the hang of it, great shots are possible. Can be used with Panasonic or Olympus micro 4/3 bodies. It retails new for $800. PayPal, ships to US via Priority Mail. $400 US, includes shipping to US & PayPal fees. References on ScubaBoard, Wetpixel, mu-43.com Marketplace (bmorescuba) & Ebay (chinkenichi)
  14. With the flood of cheaper alternatives, used GoPro values have taken a nose dive. I've tried to price accordingly. Package includes the premier filter system and the deeper "dive" housing. Everything in the picture is included. I wouldn't trust the batteries for more than 1 dive due to age but everything works. I've never had a problem or flood. I've just moved on. 64GB card included - it's ready to dive. Includes: GoPro Hero 3 Black Edition Standard Housing + Dive Housing (rated to 197') Skeleton Backdoor (x2, unused)/Skeleton BacPac (open)/Skeleton BacPac (rated to 197') Backscatter Flip 3.1 Filter System with Side Flip & Top Flip (all hardware included) Flip 3.1 Dive Filter (I used this one), Shallow Filter (unused), Deep Filter (unused) WiFi Remote, charging cable, accessories GoPro Battery (x1), Wasabi Battery (x2), Wasabi Charger SP Gadgets Carrying Case SanDisk Ultra 64Gb Micro SD Card Charging cables, Adhesive mounts, other accessories PayPal, ships to US via Priority Mail. $150 obo, includes shipping to US & PayPal fees. More pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/k57vuzikR35Wf9bYA References on ScubaBoard, Wetpixel, Ebay, MU-43 marketplace
  15. We visited the Azores for the first time in July, 2018. We stayed on São Miguel Island for 9 days, our entire trip. Having never been before, we like to stay on one island and really explore, rather than island hop. Our flights were very easy (BWI->JFK->PDL, about 6 hours). But I know there are direct BOS->PDL flights, too. We stayed at an AirBNB in Ribeira Das Tainhas, only about 5 minutes drive from Vila Franca do Campo. From what I can tell, all the diving on the island is done from Vila Franca do Campo or from Ponta Delgada. We didn't want to stay in a more populated area, so we chose Vila Franca. The island is very beautiful and has lots of black sand beaches, mountains, wonderful vistas, numerous hiking trails, and picturesque villages. Some of our favorite places to visit were the town of Furnas with hot springs and a botanical garden, and the Cha Gorreana tea plantation in the north. A car is definitely required to see everything. Being based in Vila Franca, we were able to explore the entire island and nothing was more than 75 minutes away. Food, lodging, and things like entrance fees were reasonably priced. But, we eat simply. We did a whale watching trip with Terra Azul. We saw mostly dolphins and a few pilot whales. Fun, but the boat was crowded. I was able to do 4 mornings of 2-tank dives and one night dive. I did all the dives with Azores Sub (http://azoressub.com/). Here are the dive sites we visited: Morning 1: MV Dori Wreck & Caloura Arches Morning 1: Amora (Dusky Groupers) & Tufo Morning 1: Ponta Galeria & Baixa Das Cracas Morning 1: Caloura Arches, Ponta da Cozinha Night: Ponta da Cozinha (2nd time, night) Azores Sub was great. The second day, I was the only person who showed up in the morning and they still sent 2 staff out for a whole morning of diving. I've never used a shop who would send a boat out with one diver. That really impressed me. Once they saw I was comfortable, they let me do my own thing and take pictures. All the diving was from a RIB and the sites were an average of a 15 minutes by boat. The MV Dori was the farthest, about 30 minutes, and Cozinha was super close (at the rock Ilheu), only 5 minutes away. The RIB held a max of 12 divers, which we had the first day with a big group from Spain. That was quite crowded, but still safe. Most days it was 5-6 people. The tanks were DIN and 12L was standard. 15L on request. They also had some DIN adapters. The shop crew would transport the assembled gear to and from the boat and even rinse it. I was able to store all my gear there during my visit, which was very helpful. The cost wound up being less than $40 US/dive, which seemed quite reasonable. We met at the shop around 0830 and got back in around 1300. The dives were about an hour, but not too strict on that. The average depth was about 50ft. and the water temps were between 68°-70°F. I was comfortable in a 5mm full wetsuit without hood or gloves, but I run a little warm. I really enjoyed the diving because it was different than anything I'd done before. I'm all about photos and small stuff. There were nudibranchs and bivalves on every dive. Lots of wrasses and some schooling fish. Didn't really see anything big, except some dusky groupers. The consensus was that the much-advertised big stuff (mantas, mobulas, big sharks) required 2+ hour boat rides (or a different island) and a number of people interested. We didn't have that. There wasn't really much coral, per se. Lots of volcanic rock, lots of swim-throughs, boulders, caverns, etc. I'd definitely dive it again. Here's a few sample pictures and my gallery is here: https://flic.kr/s/aHskGwvqXQ
  16. Body: EM1MKii. Housing: Nauticam I'm trying to keep things light and compact. I have pretty much worked out which lenses I want to take with me for serious shoots: Olympus 8mm 1.8 Olympus 12-40mm 2.8 Olympus 30mm 3.5 Macro Olympus 60mm 2.8 Macro I've been using the 12-40 on land and would love to get it underwater. I don't have to 8mm yet, but I do have the Panasonic 8mm and the 4.33" Dome (36132). My plan is to sell that lens and buy the Oly, but keep the 36132 port. Going by official Nauticam Port Charts and what I can make of the Zen charts, it seems like the least I could bring would be: 36135 (for 30mm) 36135+36620 (for 60mm) 36132+36620 (for 8mm) 36129 (for 12-40mm) I was just wondering if anyone has found a simpler port setup that would work with all these lenses. The 30mm is the least important, but I'd still like it as an option. The pics of the 36129 in particular do not look like it would fit in my carry-on, but I really want to accommodate that lens, as I always bring it for land and have grown to really like it. For instance, is there a dome that might reasonably be used for both the 8mm & the 12-40mm? On a related note, if anyone is interested in a pristine Pany 8mm or a good condition 14-42mm+gear+36163, let me know. Thanks!
  17. I thought I would let everyone know that I followed some of the advice left here and worked the port glass with alternating alcohol, vinegar, and water for a good while. All the cloudiness is basically gone and it looks almost new. I appreciate the advice - I was already shopping for a used replacement and vinegar is a lot cheaper... I have also altered my cleaning routine and will try to not only rinse, but wipe with a wet lens cloth and dry after being in salt water. Thanks, everyone!
  18. First off, welcome to the world of OM-D, where the lens choices are many and port sharing is infrequent! The 7-14 is 114° at 7mm. The Oly 8mm 1.8 is 180°. I have been shooting OM-D underwater for about 4 years now and I love it. I have experience with the 14-42 II R, the Panasonic 8mm Fisheye, and the Oly 60mm Macro. First off, the 60mm Macro lens is just awesome. Get that and don't look back. It is hard to get used to the effective 120mm field of view, but for small-to-medium stuff this lens can't be beat. Just temper your expectations. For any fish larger than, say, a medium angelfish, you won't be able to get the whole fish body in the frame without moving too far away for a really good shot. You can still do some good fish face work for larger fish. But there's an upside to the tight view, which is that you can shoot really small stuff without a diopter. You can, of course, use a diopter, but it's easy to fill the frame with small shrimp, etc. with no aids. And the image quality of the 60mm is just fantastic. The standard port for the 60mm is 36163 (Macro Port 65). You can also use the 14-42 II R (not EZ) in this port without issue. If you want to play with the 30mm AND 60mm macro lenses, you could get 36135 (Macro Port 45) plus 36620 (Mini ext ring 20) and then use both lenses with the 45 port. The ext ring could also be used with the mini-dome (36132) if you shot with the Olympus 8mm fisheye. In terms of wide, I would love to spend some time with the 7-14, but I don't own it. I do own the 12-40 Pro, but have not yet purchased the port for it, since that port is quite large and expensive. The 12-40 is a joy on land, and I would love to shoot it uw, but I'd need to find the port cheap. I can tell you that the 8mm fisheye lenses really take some getting used to. The 180° fov is very hard to light properly and consistently. If you can get it right, it's awesome. If you weren't planning on 2 strobes, then forget the fisheyes, too. The fisheye is not nearly as versatile as the 7-14 would be. It also locks you into fisheye-type compositions. I consider it a personal challenge to try and master, but a rectilinear would probably yield a lot more keepers. If I was buying now, I'd choose the Olympus 8mm over the Panasonic, but it didn't exist when I bought my setup. The weather sealing and a few more stops would be nice. I like the primes and "zooming with your fins" because it's fewer pieces to keep track of in the kit. I have never bothered with focus gears, either. I find the low light autofocus to be good enough for my needs. Good luck and have fun! Here's a 60mm and 8mm (panasonic) to wet your whistle
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