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Everything posted by jhelmuth

  1. My bad... sold the last to a couple of weeks ago (another board) and forgot to update this one. My apologies...
  2. Excellent. Used but even the cosmetics are minor. not used much because I have YS-D2 which has some nice features (like color controls).
  3. bump? Someone's going to be happy.
  4. I no longer shoot U/W video. So I’m offering this Canon HF200 with extra batteries and the housing for sale. I would like to get $400 for all, but I also would like to move this on to someone who would love to have it. Canon HF200 specs
  5. I have a lightly used Olympus E-PL3 camera with housing and 14-42mm Zoom + 9-18mm WA lenses. Also included is a Zen 100mm WA port for the 9-18mm WA lens.I can separate these, or add to them (strobes, accessories, etc.) to get you whatever you are looking for. Camera and housing must remain together; WA lens and Zen port also must stay together.All together: $600Camera and Housing (with factory port and 14-42mm lens): $200Zen 100WA port and 9-18mm WA lens: $500
  6. 3 powerful YS-350 strobes with conversion to 18650 battery packs and Heinrich Weikamp Digital adapter (and cables with remote strobe control).Big? Yes. Big lighting? Absolutely.With the H+W digital adapter, one can pair up these strobes with whatever digital camera rig you have.Looking for someone who wants/needs a lot of light and can work with this. Asking $375 for all....
  7. Offered are four Sea&Sea YS-D1 strobes.You can read more about this strobe here: Sea & Sea YS-D1Originally had 4 - 1 pair sold. 1 pair left. Asking 500 / pair.Shipping is additional - actual cost (so you decide how and if insurance is necessary)
  8. Offered are three (3x) Inon D-2000 strobes (type 2). All working perfectly. 2 of the 3 have the 1/2 stop diffusers (1 does not). All have standard ball mounts and optical cables. Never flooded (see pics).I'd like to sell all 3x and have 1 deal to fill/deliver, so if you want everything, $450 ($150 each) will do it for me.If you just want 1, I can do $185 (and I have a buyer for the other 2 if that's the case).Prices are for gear only. You may decide on shipping and insurance - at your actual cost (in addition).
  9. If I look at this at 100%, focus is not that good. I shot this with focus fixed at 0.5ft (or 0.15m). Give the DOF scale, I'm now wondering if this wouldn't have been better at something closer to 0.8ft (0.24m)... Strobes are a bit hot too... so I think I should have maybe shot it at 160th sec. (or have set the camera's EV to maybe -0.3)? PS - really kinda amazing (to me anyway) that the YS-350s work so well with this (thanks to the H/W Digital Adapter). I only had 2 misfires all day and by setting the Olympus EPL5 to "use" RC (Remote Control ON) and the YS-350s to TTL, I had a fair bit of success (at least after I set the ISO to 200 down from 400, and increased the Shutter to 1/125th)
  10. Here is a sample of today out at Pickles. Bad storms last night had things stirred up a good bit, so water quality wasn't the best... ISO 200 f11 1/125th dual YS-350 Pros with H/W Digital Adapter in conjunction with Oly EPL5 in Fill mode and RC on.
  11. Price reduction (let's move this on)... $375 for housing and camera and 32GB memory card...
  12. Here is an update on what is SOLD - and what is available... (and updated pricing) Available A - Oly SP-350 in Ikelite housing with TTL interface and AD lens mount with flash hide + dual handle tray with standing base = $350 B2 - extra Sea&Sea arm for dual strobe setup = $10 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- D - Oly SP-350 w Oly housing + Henrich & Wiekamp TTL interface and TTL cord + tray with AD mount = $325 E - Oly SP-350 in Oly housing + tray with AD mount + Inon ultra wide (weitwinkel) (weitwinkel) angle lens (UWL105AD) and optical flash mount = $400 M - Oly SP-350 in Oly housing with Henrich & Wiekamp TTL interface (and TTL cord) = $275 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Note: On the above cameras, I can change out parts to build exactly what you want - just ask... (will separate) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I - Inon tray mount for AD lens O - Ikelite single handle tray = $20 SOLD B - Oly SP-350 in Oly housing with Henrich & Wiekamp TTL interface (and TTL cord) on Sea&Sea tray + Fantasea dome port + YS90 AutoTTL strobe = $550 G - Oly SP-350 in Oly housing = $125J - Oly SP-350 in Oly housing = $125 K - Oly SP-350 in Oly housing = $125 L - Oly SP-350 in Oly housing = $125 P - spare Olympus SP-350 = $60 No Longer Available... C - Sea&Sea YS-350 Pro TTL strobe (extra battery pack and charger avail.) = $225 F - Sea&Sea Dual strobe TTL cable (can be combined with H&W digital converter to convert YS-350's to fire via internal flash) = $150 H - Sea&Sea TTL cable with H&W digital converter to convert non digital strobe to fire via camera's internal flash N - Sea&Sea YS-350 Pro TTL strobe (extra battery pack and charger avail.) = $225
  13. The more I think about the testing (which was all "fresh" water - not salt), the more i'm leaning toward setting the focus ring to 0.5ft, as the change in diffraction due to density ought to cause the focus to shift closer... FYI... Here is a sample (cropped) shot from the pool test... ...and some pics of the lens/housing...
  14. OK... I still did not get to the pool (and I might get some time in tomorrow), but I did get some time in with better testing in the tub! (just and old fiberglass bathtub). Here is what I did... > Used an Inon D2000 strobe as my "subject" since it had several qualities that I thought would help me decide on focus clarity. > Used 2x BigBlue 2500 lumen LED torches as my ambient lighting (which afforded me an ISO of 400 and shutter of 1/100 - 1/125 at various apertures) > Snipped several bit of old measuring tape (the type that is stiff and rolls into the case by itself) so I could measure distance, but also because the fine lines and graduations would give me a better objective to judge focus. > Tested distance of 2", 4", 6", 8", 10", 12", 18", 24" (inches) all at f11 (I've been able to prove to myself that this seems to be the aperture sweet spot), but different focus settings (0.3ft, 0.4ft, 0.5ft, 0.65ft, 0.8ft) > I wanted to test 2" and 4" shots, but I'm weighting them quite low as I do not intend to shoot 4" and in. Still, I took them as a reference to help me figure out what was going on > As a final test, I used several objects set in background and foreground and tried f16 and f22 at the 0.65ft focus, as well as f11 (again) and f8. Here is what I found... * 0.3ft (minimum focus) and 0.4ft were all pretty much rubbish except at the 2" and 4" distances (actually, even the 4" distance was rubbish with the 0.3ft focus) * 0.8ft looked best only beyond 6" * The 2 contenders for best DOF seemed to fall to the 0.5ft and 0.65ft shots. * As one might suspect, the background focus was slightly better at the 0.65ft shots, while the foreground focus was decidedly better with the 0.5ft shots * f11 was a clear winner in the final test shots (I think this is the sweet spot of the lens overall) * @ f11 and 4" - 6" - 8" - 10", 0.5ft & 0.65ft were virtually identical - I could not call a winner * @f11 and 12" (and beyond) 0.65ft was more clearly the "winner" as the distances became longer. Final Results... So now I considered f11 focused at 0.65ft (which was actually as close to exactly between 0.5ft and 0.8ft as I could guesstimate) to be my decided "winner" Now I wanted to "see" what f22, f16, an f8.0 would produce... and f11 was the clear winner. Conclusion: In my limited testing, I would choose f11 focused at as close to exactly between 0.5ft and 0.8ft on the focus ring as my correct hyperfocal setting for anything 4" and beyond (excepting 2" and 24"+ - in which case I'd choose 0.5ft for the 2" shot, and 0.8ft for the 24"+ shot) ISO 400 1/100th f11 (2" with focus set to 0.5ft) ISO 400 1/100th f11 (6" with focus set to 0.65ft) ISO 400 1/100th f11 (12" with focus set to 0.65ft) ISO 400 1/100th f11 composite PS - I do get the tinyest mechanical vignetting with this Dome/lens combination (again - Athena 100mm fisheye dome for Oly PT-EPxx [designed fromLumix 8mm] with a Rokinon 7.5mm fisheye)
  15. Hmmmm.... maybe I am not understanding all this, but I do believe that 4x gets me only to the front of the lens (that is where the base of the dome is - exactly at the lens front). Unless I'm missing something, I also have to add in the distance from the front of the lens to the sensor. If I add all that, I'm at ~ 10". I'm not saying you're wrong. It's just what I've observed (and tried to learn and absorb) so far. Again, I'll take time to do some more accurate and in-depth testing in the pool. I can lawn lay down a tape measure, and take more detailed tests.
  16. Not nearly as sharp as the 0.8ft image (not even close). I'm going to head to the pool sometime within the next few days and take more time to carefully measure exposures at various distances. I'm not too concerned about having the infinite distance sharp (would be nice to have - but not a deal breaker). I DO want the image to be sharp from as close as 6" (1.5cm) to about 2-3' (0.7-1.0m) from the front of the dome. These are the anticipated distances where I will likely "shoot" my subjects (at least that is what I am anticipating)
  17. If I am absorbing this correctly, I'm thinking the virtual image is at 10" from the Image Sensor (true focal distance). I arrived at that by 50mm (radius) * 3.03 (factor) = 151.5mm (6.01") in front of the dome vertex (v) + ~100mm from (v) to Sensor (fp) = ~ 251.5mm (9.99"). So I set the focus ring index to 0.8 ft (~10") which also coincides with the infinty index DOF mark. Took some test shots (bathtub) from ~ 6" out to about 2'+ (from the dome front) and did the same for 0.5 ft (focus ring setting)... results: the images set at 0.8ft were all mostly in focus (short, med, and long - the long shot was slightly out-of-focus) Comments? Suggestions? PS - Was able to use ISO 400, and 1/125th sec. shutter on 2x 2500 LED lights (reflected)
  18. So it would seem to me that the virtual image DOF is "squished" - correct? That would make the DOF more narrow? (IE - the actual distances the lens "sees" at the virtual focus point out to infinity)
  19. Hey guys (and gals), I've got an Olympus EPL5 (housed in the Oly PT-EP10) and have recently added a new port and lens combination (currently shoot mostly the Oly 9-18mm zoom in a Zen 100mm port) in the Athena 100mm dome for the Lumix 8mm fisheye along with the Rokinon 7.5mm fisheye. Since these are very close to the same focal length and physical size, I do believe this combination will work well. So... since the 7.5mm fisheye is a fully manual lens, I want to set this up for nearly any circumstance where I would be shooting say from 1ft out. From reading, I've decided that the aperture sweet spot should be right about f8.0 (I've read that it could be from a low of 5.6 to a high of 11.0, with most agreement on 6.8 to 8.0). So I've experimented just a bit (all on land so far) and found that if I set my focus ring infinity index mark to align with the aperture ring index mark (between 3.5 and 4.0) that I seem to get very good all around focus on shots from about 8" and out (again - this is @ f8.0). My question to you is: [A] does this seem correct to you? any suggestions? [C] How might this change when I place this in the Athena dome? I'll plan to follow-up with a review (including whatever I learn) on this combination... Thanks in advance, Jim PS - any tips on dual strobe positioning for fisheye?
  20. He felt $100 was a reasonable seller price... Not really unheard of either (there is some evidence of that - albeit a bit toward the rare side), but all evidence to the contrary - most ys90s (DX for sure) are actually selling at about $150 (Auto slightly more).
  21. Fix UWL-104 is SOLD... all that is for sale now is the WP-V1 Housing with CanonHF200 HD mini cam and 32GB memory card = $450 ...I will separate the WP-V1 ($300) and the Canon HF200 with 32Gb memory card, cables, charger extra battery, etc. ($200)
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