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About snoack

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    Wolf Eel

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    Munich, Germany
  1. James is right. Whenever i had a fogging problem with a digicam or video housing, it was always concentrated to the lens port. Both of our polycarbonate housings start to fog after 10-15 minutes without silica gel packs. I've started to squeeze 2 of them into my PT-010 now, solved my problem even when i had to assemble my gear in rather humid air. Try the test that Bob suggested. Use a silica gel pack or stuff the housing with kleenex. Fogging is usually caused by the heat of the camera. If the gelpack/kleenex is wet after the dive, there probably is a leak somewhere. If nothing happens, simply use silica gel packs, like the rest of us. Sabine
  2. Sounds like a case for personal liability insurance (i'm talking about the guy next to you If your camera was swimming in salt water, there is few hope that it will survive or that it is possible to repair it. Problem is corrosion. And Herb is right, the costs of repairing it will be almost as high as buying a new one. Replacing only the LCD screen of our video camera (the only thing that had contact with salt water) cost ~ 500 EUR. Sabine
  3. Bob, what an improvement !!! I'd probably also crop the photo, because IMO there is a bit too much soft background now.
  4. Wasa, did you use the diffusor ? The photo reminds me of my MX10/YS40 days. Taking macro shots without diffusor produced results similar to your photo. Sabine
  5. Daniel, as far as i understand the difference between AutoLevels and AutoColor is that AutoLevels is using another threshold value for the number of existing pixels to consider, i.e. looking at the histograms of an AutoLeveled photo shows that there are existing pixels outside the new level values. AutoColor sets the new values exactly to the point, where existing pixels start. This makes a big difference for many photos where Red is strong in the shadows but very weak in the midtones and highlights, which happens in many uw-photos. Since PS7 introduced AutoColor, i'm using it right after the dive for photos that i want to burn on CDs for fellow divers. It's the fastest way to "optimize" them and works very well. Sabine
  6. Bob, i should have mentioned you and Jeff Farris in the one with the scorpionfish. On the other hand i'm "manipulating" my photos for quite some time now (several years), thats why i forgot to give credits. Sorry Sabine
  7. As some of you might know, i love to play around with Photoshop and try to save my faulty shots with it. I was asked to write down what i'm doing to improve my photos after i posted the "optimized" version of my scorpionfish last month. I'm not a PS pro but some of what i've learned about adjusting and correcting uw-photos might be useful for others too. Yesterday i added a new section to my website with links to Levels and Level Adjustment Basics (theory only) Manual and Automatic Level Adjustment (adjusting and correcting levels for 6 photos) How to correct too much depth of field (thats the one with the scorpionfish) Have fun, Sabine
  8. Kasey, although the histograms can tell me a lot about what's wrong with a photo, i never use them to judge correct exposure. i usually notice over/underexposure when i simply look at the photo Sabine
  9. Nice photos and interesting to read, Sabine BTW: You might have posted it in the Member Gallery Links section
  10. I agree with Herb, leave everything as it is now. A scanned slide IMO is digital, or does the camera have to get wet to produce wetpixels ? I enjoyed and learned a lot from the (scanned) photos that were submitted by Bob and Pierre. As long as the photographer gives us a hint that the origibal is film, it's ok for me. Other questions, like "optimizing your photos" on a PC, printing, ... are interesting for both kinds of pictures. Sabine
  11. Have a look at Wetpixel Topic 1 Wetpixel Topic 2 Wetpixel Topic 3 Sabine
  12. Must have been a great experience. I'm not sure if i would find the tame to take pictures at all, i'd probably just look at them and forget about everything else You are right about the strobe, using it caused a lot of backscatter in your picture and the distance to the dolphins was too far to use the strobe anyway. Your improvemed version is much better but the blue is a bit pixelish. I don't know MGI photosuite but what you could try is this: 1. Crop the picture because there is more water behind the dolphins than in front of them 2. Try to get rid of the backscatter 3. Adjust the colors Here's what i was thinking of ... (hope you don't mind i played with your photo), Sabine
  13. Herb, without a strobe, you couldn't have done better. Some of those turtes are curious, we once met one that posed in front of every photographer of our group until she bumped into a block of coral Sabine
  14. Funny thing, i didn't even see those bubbles before Herb mentioned them. Slippery-when-wet, this is a great shot and hard to improve. I'm looking forward to see more of your pics. Sabine
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