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ProfF

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ProfF last won the day on July 16 2019

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About ProfF

  • Rank
    Triggerfish
  • Birthday October 9

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Israel / USA

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Israel
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OM-D EM1
  • Camera Housing
    NA-EM1
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z330 X2
  • Accessories
    Sola 1200, CMC2, WWL1

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  1. Just to conclude the current episode. I did not get to dive with the trigger as I could not get it to work pre-dive. Upon returning home, and letting it and me rest for few days, I retried. In four or five attempts, I got the "proper" on response (blinking blue light) but only once it was really on (triggering the optical port). In that instance it worked with the cable (home made 3m as per interceptor121 recipes) and strobe that I started with. So it can work, but I have no clue what determines when it will work.
  2. Thanks! So far, no success (battery removal included). I am still not sure what "not turned on properly means" (what did I do wrong).
  3. Thanks. I didn't manage to get that working. I will let it rest for few hours and try again (I will cool down and it might reset some error state). I just wish the manual was more informative, as I am sure the blinking blue light has a meaning in the electronic circut/software of this device.
  4. 1. When I do the ON sequence (first hit blink pink two blues, then two hits with pink light) the device starts having blinking blue light in a rythem of 1-1--------1-1----.... When I do the same sequence again it turns off (no light),. This was also the behavior previous times I used the device successfully :-/ 2. The camera and strobe are on manual mode (always). Rechecked.
  5. Not sure if the camera is relevant, but it is OM-D EM-1. The Trigger is Anglerfish v3.0 (as in the subject :-)
  6. Hi I have a brand new Anglerfish trigger (4 dives total). After some training I learned how to reliably turn it on (took a while to get their system). Today I returned to diving and the trigger wont fire. I know that I turned it on (funny blinking blue lights) but the optic bulkhead wont flash. I checked with two cables and then finally resorted to look at the led to see if it flashes. Aside from turning half blind with all the test strobes I could not get it to work. The product manual writes: "If the optical trigger does not trigger the remote strobe, remove the fiber optic cable from the unit and inspect the small high power LED inside the optical bulkhead. Operate the camera strobe serval times and see if the LED blinks while the camera strobe fires. If the LED does flash bright, the fault could be in the optical cable or the strobe settings. Make sure you follow the strobe manufacture’s settings for operating the remote strobe via optical cable. [goes on discussing cable troubleshooting] " The manual does not say what to do if the LED does NOT flash bright.... which is my situation. And again, the battery is ok and the trigger turn on/off sequences work as they should. Any ideas for further checks? (I don't have an electrical cable to test with) Thanks!
  7. Thanks! I thought about this solution. I was worried that optics will change UW (due to differences in refractive index of water and air). Moreover, the prisms I managed to get were rather bulky and heavy.
  8. 1. I used the SOLA800 and at night it was very strong. Didn't try in a bright mid-day. I guess this has to do with the quality of the beam splitter 2. As I wrote in the description, I bought one of the Khet (a laser board game) extension pieces that had two beam splitters. I see them on Amazon (US) for a hefty price right now. Didn't look elsewhere. I am sure that many other plastics have semi-transparent properties that can be used for this design... Good luck with the print, and I will be happy to hear how it came out.
  9. So far so good (more than a dozen dives for the mirror, I used the same one in earlier prototypes). It is a relatively cheap piece of plastic. Regarding the optics, would love to hear suggestions for improvements.
  10. Hi, It seems that the enthusiasm for a better/cheaper snoot never runs out. I usually find it hard to point the beam of light on the subject, and even a slow moving one escapes by the time I get it. So I wanted a light guide that will show were snoot actually points to. I tried the 10Bar laser focus and found it unreliable and inaccurate. I did design a version where the laser projected on the same line as the strobe using beam splitter. But the laser was annoying. Then I realized that the same design can work with a strong focus torch. The benefit is that I get to see the whole beam and that it is much brighter than the little red laser dot. Here is the result. It is a modular snoot that can either have a fixed head (at different beam diameters) or a fiber-optic attachment that can be manipulated by hand. An example of a photo made with this snoot. I had 12-50mm (Olympus EM-1) + wet diopter lens (nauticam CMC2). The focus light was on red, and my dive buddy was aiming the optic fiber snoot at individual skeleton shrimps.... Would love to hear your comments and suggestions. The design is uploaded to https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3749151
  11. I can read R4006/1302 on one of the packages (the one adjacent to the one marked "f2m"). There is another small 8-pin package on the other side but as far as I can see (with magnifying glass) it does not have any marking.... The R might be a P and then this might be P4006 which is actually a code for another (older?) IGBT from RENESAS with very similar specs. https://www.renesas.com/en-us/doc/products/transistor/004/rej03g1865_rjp4006ageds.pdf
  12. Trying again (was away on a trip so did not have the LM2 under my hands). Hopefully pictures w/o tape would help. Any suggestions on where to start (my electronics knowledge is minimal) would be great Thanks!
  13. Hi, cool idea! I am wondering whether a similar mod can be done to the FL-LM2 (the smaller flash of Mark I OM-Ds). Anyone with electronic background can comment on whether this mod will work? If it helps, I disassembled my older LM2 and attached photographs. As far as I can tell, the xenon tube assembly is similar to that of the LM3. Any suggestions how to proceed will be appreciated...
  14. Can you say a word or two on these "lightpipes"?
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