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About jsnorman

  • Rank
  • Birthday 04/28/1967

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Chicago, IL

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon Z7 II; Nikon D500; Olympus E-M1
  • Camera Housing
    NA-Z7II; NA-D500; Nauticam NA-EM1; Olympus PT-056
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Two Subtronic Nova 160; Two Inon Z330
  • Accessories
    ULCS strobe arms; GoBe 700 wide, UV and red; i-Torch Pro6+

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. I have managed to get over / under with this, but it is not easy. 1 out of 50 shots will make the cut. This is sold by the way as of today.
  2. Nauticam 4.33 port specifically made for the tokina 10-17mm fisheye, n120 mount. Travel friendly, compact and works great with the tokina lens. There are two small scuff marks - too feint to show up on pictures and does not affect images. Probably could be polished out with acrylic scratch repair but I haven't tried. My initials are on shade, could be painted over. No neoprene cover. Includes storage bag and back cover. $300
  3. Bumping ... Make me an offer need to clear these out
  4. I have one as well, along with the 8.5" dome ... If still looking let me know
  5. Barely used before I switched to 45 degree viewfinder (better for macro). For DSLR and Z models (may need an adapter for some older m4/3 models, not sure but I know it fits Nauticam's DSLR and Z7 housings). This model has a diopter adjustment as well. $1,000 obo plus shipping.
  6. Great suggestions and info. I think I am going to try the pl9 first since I already have a full set of fisheye and macro lenses for my oly m1. I like the super small case backscatter has, really nice.
  7. I have several Ikelite DS series strobes and accessories I am parting with. They have seen very limited use and all of the battery packs have no trouble making it through 2 back to back dives. Make reasonable offers for any or all. I can post pictures if needed. The bodies and lenses of the strobes are all in excellent condition. (1) DS-160 head with lithium battery pack, including ball mount and screw in diffuser, and lithium ion charger. Purchased around 2015. (2) DS-125 heads with NiMH battery packs, screw in diffusers, dome diffusers, and chargers (note: these are from 2007 and 2009; they do last through a couple of dives, but I haven't tested to see how many flashes they can take - purchaser will likely want to buy new battery packs for those). One of the DS-125 heads is missing the cover for the electrical connector. (2) Ikelite Fiber Optic Adapters to allow fiber optic triggering of DS series flashes (1) Ikelike single handle DSLR tray with quick release handle and manual EV controller (note: missing the screws that hold the camera housing to the base plate, but those should be replaceable) (1) Dual Ikelite - Nikon TTL Adapter (electric sync chord). Connects to standard Nikon 5 pin bulkhead connector on housing, to provide TTL compatibility with DS series strobes. No fiber optic connection, signals directly from camera to flash via sync cable. Dual strobes so two DS series strobes can be synced.
  8. I have been on wetpixel a few years, but never introduced myself so here it goes! Jeff Norman, from Chicago. I have been diving for about 25 years, and shooting underwater for about 20 of those years. I only recently (last 7 years) started attending workshops and upgraded my setup to a DSLR (Nikon D7000 later upgraded to D500) about 5 years ago so I am still a relative newcomer to u/w photography, but have managed to get a few decent shots in the last few years since doing the workshops. My current go to set up is Nikon D500, Nauticam housing, Inon Z330 strobes, and Inon LF3100 video light. My lens of choice is the Nikon 105vr macro, and I also use the Tokina 10-17 (usually with the Nauticam compact port). I also have the Oly TG4 and TG6 with the PT-059 housing, and the Olympus M1, M5 and M10 systems with Nauticam housings (but I no longer use any of these as the D500 is so much better, and not much larger). I am a sidemount diver most of the time, and recently got my sidemount and solo diver certs. My instagram is @jefferysnorman and I post my better shots there usually. I welcome any and all feedback and constructive criticism!
  9. I am trying to replace my TG6 + PT-059 with a compact setup I can use on quick trips in lieu of my long trip Nauticam / Nikon SLR setup. My TG6 is fantastic, but fails miserably in flourescence photography due to its lack of manual controls. From reviews, it seems like the Sony Ax100 vii or the Panasonic lx100 ii might suffice, but it is hard to tell since the reviews I have found don't really focus on manual mode and are geared more for ease of use shooters. It is also difficult to look at these because housing choices for these compacts are more limited (mostly just Nauticam), and I cannot get a feel for the size of these housings or information on the camera functions accessible via the housing. Any advice appreciated. I would prefer to keep this backup / quick travel system inexpensive, but the priority here is something I can throw into a carry-on with my two strobes, fluorescence filters, batteries, and a couple of days worth of clothes, my BC, mask and regs, and still be within the carry on size limit! So choice of the housing is very important also. It might be the case that some of the smaller mirrorless cameras that have some compact housing choices might work better than the lx100 or ax100, but I just don't have a good u/w shop near me to explore and look and see sizewise, so hoping the community can help out with some good options.I know the Nauticam Oly M1/M5/M10 housings are all too big so it has to be smaller than those (which i already have). My Olympus TG6, PT-059 housing, flextray, and strobes all fit in my bag with a little room to spare so I could go a little larger, but not the full mirrorless NA-EM1 size which is too large. Any advice on camera and/or housing for this purpose much appreciated. Must have: - Full manual control over shutter and aperture accessible from the housing via dials (not a complex embedded menu structure) - Excellent low light ISO sensitivity - lower the better - RAW files Like to have: - Manual exposure control via buttons or dial accessible from housing - Manual flash control - Fastest possible flash sync -
  10. Mexico Diver mexicodivers.com Place with yellow submarine outside shop. I learned side mount there and they will do advanced dives. Not limited to museo as most other cruise ship oriented shops just do that dive over and over.
  11. I just picked up a bargain on ebay - Aquatica 3 housings (2), and full set of ports (macro and fisheye domes), extensions and gears. I love my D800 but I also like shooting film sometimes so I thought I love shooting film and thought this might be an interesting way to try film underwater. I already have Nikon lenses so hoping I can at least use my 35mm and 50mm lenses which have all manual rings, as well as maybe the Tokina fisheye. Does anyone still shoot film underwater? I cannot find much info online about shooting film underwater. Would appreciate any advice on the following topics: 1) Any way to use modern (digital) strobes (Subtronic and Ikelite) with the Aquatica/F3? 2) Pros and cons of various film options underwater? Or any tips that are unique to shooting film underwater would be greatly appreciated.
  12. Ahhh yes! I did not understand how the excitation filters on the strobe would help rather than overwhelm the lighting from the organism.. .but now it makes sense. Thank you!!!
  13. Thank you .. what filters should I bring? I assume you mean filters/gells/diffusers on the strobes themselves, not at the camera.
  14. I just received my new iTorch Pro6+ and may have a chance to try it out next month (macro shoots). I am interested in how will it will work as a fill/add in light in UV mode (it is 2800 lumens, 120 degree beam angle, and UV is at the 420nm sweet spot for bio-luminescence). Any tips on the best way to make use of this? Will this be enough UV power to bring out luminescence in stills? I assume I will still need my strobes, but I was thinking to reduce power by at least full stop so the strobes don't overpower the UV. Or do I need a second UV lamp and just shoot without strobe when I want shoot creatures and corals glowing?
  15. I would like to change out my existing Nikonos 5 pin bulkhead on my Nauticam D7000 for an S6 bulkhead to use with Subtronic strobes that have an S6 connection (one digital, and a slave in analog mode). I have several problems would appreciate any thoughts/information on: 1) I cannot find an M16 S6 bulkhead threaded for the Nauticam port. Does one exist? 2) There are at least 2 M14 S6 bulkheads available. In that case, it appears I can use the Nauticam M16 to M14 stepdown bulkhead adapter. Any problems with that approach? 3) I plan to use my existing Nikonos 5 pin hotshoe connection, and cut off the Nikonos connector from the ribbon cable. Then, I can solder the ribbon cable from my existing hotshoe (N5) to the ribbon cable from the S6 for the Subtronics. I have decent soldering skills, so that seems pretty easy. However, I cannot seem to locate a wiring diagram that shows how to wire from Nikon N5 to Subtronic S6. Can anyone point me in the right direction? 4) Is there an easier way to do this that I haven't considered? I know 10bar used to make a short N5 to S6 cable, but it seems that is no longer manufactured. I also thought about buying the Subal S6 to Nikonos bulkhead that would be pre-wired, but not sure if I can get that bulkhead on my Nauticam. Any ideas would be appreciated.
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