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superlite

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Everything posted by superlite

  1. OK, so i arrived in Belize today and trying to get my gear together for some shallow snorkling tomorrow morning. I am going to give manual settings a go, and wanted to dial the strobe down as required after chimping the image and histogram. But the strobe seems to fire pretty bright in all positions. Maybe it's too hard to tell with the eye or something. But also, the TTL light on the Ikelite housing remains lit even when I dial the D-125 to a non TTL setting. Is this normal? I know I'm being stupid here, but the strobe manual doesn't say anything about this. I'm sure I won't see any responses before leaving tommorow monning, but if anyone can help with this I would sure appreciate it. Thanks, RICK
  2. Thanks for the feedback! In response to the question about the lens, I am just using the 18-55 zoom kit lens with a 6" dome port. In shallow, well lit water, do you think I should I just ditch the strobe? RICK
  3. I have a Canon 1Dmk2 that I am pretty accostomed to, shooting Manual, RAW, with availiable light----mostly sports and wildlife. About two years ago, I bought an Ikelite housing for my old Canon 20D, and a D-125 strobe, which I used in Maui on a short vacation with OK results for a newb. But I'm going to Belize in about a week, and my main focus is going to try to get better with this set up. I tried to look at EXIF data on many of the great photos on this site, but it does not seem to be availiable. If anyone would mind recommending their approach for this setup, I would sure appreciate it. I will stick with RAW, but should I shoot in Manual, or should I use Apreture Priority? If AP should I start about f8 or so? The strobe has me a little flummoxed, since I hardly ever use a flash for topside shots. Last time I used it I'm sure I used the TTL setting, but I noticed some of the images seemed a bit blown out in the foreground. I've never been to Belize, but I expect great vis and great availiable lighting at the shallower depth-----I want to be on the forever table where I have some time to get more familiar with the housing. Should I get off TTL and just chimp the histogram and image, and dial down the power as required? Lastly, since I now need reading glasses (getting old sucks sometimes) I am somewhat concerned about being able to make all these setting changes on the fly when it's so hard to see through the mask and housing to the little display screen. I bought some of those press on vison cheaters at a dive store, but don't have any experience using them yet. I know I just have to experiment and work through all this, but if anyone has any input it would be greatly appreciated. RICK
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