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http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=36355&hl= sometimes I used continuos light in macro, wide macro.

Those are my works that recently was taken in Anilao. I have enjoyed much with this relay lens. In my opinion , to get proper focusing in both of foreground and background, the exact focusing site should be compromised. But it would be not easy.

tokina 10-17 inon Micro Semi-Fisheye Relay Lens inon Micro Semi-Fisheye Relay Lens 105mm with F100 nikon camera 60mm with D 700 I have used nikon D 700 with 60mm micro, Fuji S 5 pro with tokina 10-17, and canon 50D with 60mm and inon Micro Semi-Fisheye Relay Lens . I found same kind of critter taken by different lens system in my hard disk. I guess those are good stuffs that can be compared., Recently I recognized the way to get better DOF in inon Micro Semi-Fisheye Relay Lens . In spite of same subject, we can get various expression of pictures.

I have used 45 degree VF for 6-7- years , Seacam and Inon . In my opinion, except downward dierction of shot, it woild be much comfortable in aspect of your posture. In some cases, not like straight VF, you don't need bend your body or neck much.

I have both types. Patima and subal strobe housing is cylindrical, and 10 bar and Nautilus produced non cylindrical type, just similar form of land speed light. I prefer nautilus type (non cylindrical) due to compact size and good buyancy. But it has not dom shaped window, so narrower lighting area than cylindrical type. To me, this downside of it never made me prefer cylindrcal type. Those are stuffs using SB 900 . I could not find lack of degree of lighting or power eventhough wide angle shot. Thank you.

I have used SB 800 and 900 for many years. Still I am sure that it was one of the best alternative way of using i TTL for nikon system. Positive advantages as follows : 1) good underwater balance , or buyancy. 2) easy to control the E.V. 3) very accurate TTL control 4) you can control degree of lighting as you want in wide angle as well. Down sides as follows ; 1) If you set strobe as wide angle, a little bit lower GN . ( but I was never disappointed with low GN at wide angle) 2) impossible using dual TTL , you should set manaul syncro, not slave at the other side 3) In my experience,if you set one side TTL and other side slave TTL, sometime you would get under expoure or over exposure picture.4) cost will be not lower than other ordinary strobe. I know some company produce that housing, subal , Patima, Nautilus (Japan), 10 bar, Nexus (SB 400? new model) ect,

I think discussions on the availability of HID Torch for macro or macrowide shots would be worthy. I have used that kind of torch ( OVER 3000 LUMEN)for 2 years for macro , CFWA, or macro wide shots. I found some advantges of it over strobe in some cases. Those are pictures by use of that torch. Sometimes I used it by connection with snoot, it made me very happy.

I agree absolutely. It would be not easy to make subject be placed at just front site of infocus area exactly. In my opinion, for this reason, focusing braketting(?) would be needed as the mention of Timmoranuk. Anyway subject should be placed on very front point of infocus area,not exceeding of infocus limit.

Sorry maybe it was not enough that I explain about my concepts on how to adjust focus distance. Actually this long nose lens has great depth of field.It has longer infocus area than other ordinary lens. I mean main subject should be located at the point of nearest infocus area from camera , not center of infocus area.

I have used this Pinocchio lens for 8 month. Only now I realized how can I get good sharpness on background model or other stuffs, When I began to use, I just adjusted distance of focus simply on foreground subject. After that, I compare with Tokina 10-17 macro wide shot , I could not find any advantage of this long nose lens over Tokina combo setting( plus teleconverter). But recently I realized that to get good sharpness of background subject I should adjust focus distance on foreground subject as far as possible. After all I could get better sharpness of background subjects than my tokina 10-17 combo set. All those are pictures taken by lnon long nose lens.

Those settings are very good for special purposes, can be used for tiny subject in cases of macro wide shots. Certainly it wil be easier than without teleconverter. I attempted it many times, but I could not recognizes obvious lack of sharpness in spite of using teleconverter. Those pictures are Tokina 10-17 plus1.4 teleconvertoer with cropped sensor camera ,Fuji S 5 pro.

Hi, everybody. I have done some test again about inon Pinocchio lense and tokina 10-17. In this time I tried to do standardization of situations of shots.I put same meta data ( f 22 , 1/125 s , 400 ISO) in both croped sensor camera , cannon 50 D with Pinocchio lense and S5 pro Fuji with Tokina 10-17 and 1.4 teleconverter. I can get some conclusions again . not much differences from last time.I expected new inon pinocchio would show better background sharpeness than Tokina, but I could not show it. 50 D with Pinocchio Tokina with 1.4 tele

Hi , Alex, Absolutely I gree it,.Next week I have plan to go to anilao again, and will try to compare more by same meta data, stuffs.

Thankyou I used nexus dome port , exclusive use for 10-17 plus extension ring and, also have zoom gear for this setting, and focal lenth was 17 mm, thank you

Thank you I wil put the data. All those are a littlle bit different in meta data. So , it was not absolute comparision. Next week , I will try absolute compare with same stuffs and shutter speed , f stop ect...