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aeromole

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About aeromole

  • Rank
    Clownfish

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D70 + Nikon D5000
  • Camera Housing
    Ikelite
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea & Sea YS 110
  • Accessories
    Flexi arm
  1. Have you got any of these O rings left, please Mark? Best regards. Pete
  2. Thanks for the link - it explains what is going on . That is very helpful. Now I have to try and fix it.
  3. To both interceptor 121 and eyu. My ACC button is in, and I have a D7100. I use a fibre-optic connector. There is no problem with the flash synchronising with the camera, its just the strength of the flash that is an issue. I am not aware of a problem with the ACC button. I use the flash in manual mode. I have also undertaken a test with both flash guns in exactly the same settings and position, taking shots alternatively - there is definitely an issue with the output of this gun. Please can you explain why a faulty magnet on the ACC button might affect the strength output/control if the flash is firing? That seems a bit odd.
  4. How would I tell if this is the problem, and is it fixable?
  5. The problem is that in manual mode, the volume dial switch has no effect. When testing it, the only way I could get more power was to switch it into auto mode on the top left hand dial. Switching it into STTL or FULL had no effect I understand that it is the 2 bottom switches that are magnet/reed switches ( the spotting light and the pushup/down knob). Are the other 2 rotary controls, or do they have magnets too? Have you run into this problem and is it solvable?
  6. My Inon flash gun has developed a fault - it does not react to the flash strength dial when its in manual mode. It does flash, but weakly. The only setting when it will flash at full power is on auto. Does anyone have any suggestions on what might be causing this?. It is an old gun so it's out of warranty, and I accept that i may need to "open it up", but I'd like to have an idea what I'm looking to fix inside. Thanks, Pete
  7. The D90 will only sync up to 1/200 with a non-Nikon flash, though it will sync at faster speeds with a proper Nik flash. Can't afford one of them....in an underwater housing as well! At 1/400th, the shutter is covering perhaps 10% at the bottom of the image. 1/320th, it will be less but still visible at 1/250th. Pete
  8. Tamas970 You probably ought to ask Hedwig about the features of his design. As far as I can see, the flash comes when the switch (ie camera hot shoe) is broken rather than when it is made, but this happens so quickly there is no problem. The LEDs are also mounted in terminal blocks and are in parallel, so you can use more (or less) and adapt them easily. The circuit I have used is the same as rtrski's instructions, though I didn't get it from him. I've just used veroboard, rather than try to etch a circuit board. It also just produces a single short pulse as the hot shoe circuit is made, so there is no problem with making the strobes continue firing. Pete
  9. Tamas970 Sorry for the delay in replying - been away for a few days. The example of Hedwig's unit that I have seen was nice - much more sophisticated than the MOSFET version. I did make it work by firing the LED directly into the fibre optic bulkhead connector, but did not fit it to the camera as it mounts on the hot shoe....and mine is already used by the camera pressure lead detector. The MOSFET circuit I am using has 2 x 12V LR23 batteries in parallel, with the 4 high power LEDs mounted in series. Hedwig uses 2 CR button cells of 3V each, and his LEDs appear to be in parallel. Herewith pictures of my version. One shows the batteries and circuitry mounted under the camera tray, the other shows the hot shoe connector with the wiring break for the flash, and you can see the 4 LEDs mounted on a board directly under the bulkhead connector. Units are connected with computer plugs. Wiring is rather untidy - I will make another one when I have a minute and tidy things up. Pete Ah, the photos failed. I will try again.
  10. Hi tamas970. I think I recall reading that the MOSFET has a response time of about 1/1000 sec, and the LED responds quickly too. My D90 will only sync properly at 1/200, though at 1/400 it will still pick up the flash fine....you just see the shutter cutting off part of the image as well! I never found any reference to the Glowdive unit on the web either. Judging by the quality of manufacture, I suspect it was a prototype unit send out for trial to a supplier. The guy who gave (loaned?) the unit to me did so because he could not make it work....though I suspect that may have had something to do with the alignment of the LEDs. So, I doubt if Glowdive ever put it into production. This mirrors Triggerfish's experience - Hedwig said many people could not make his unit work so he stopped making them. However, I am told by someone in the know that Nauticam are now making a flash trigger (though I can't find it on their website yet.) Best place to start with that would be UW Visions in the UK. If you are still interested, I can certainly make you one. We would need to work out how to make the LEDs fire straight into the F/O bulkhead connector, so I'd need to know the relative positions of the camera hot shoe and the bulkhead connector itself. Which housing are you using? Regards. Pete
  11. Eddcar Just thought you might be interested in progress. I was given 2 strobe triggers - one of Hedwig's creations, and another from Glowdive. The Glowdive one used the circuit that you pointed out, including the MOSFET, powered by a small 12v battery and with 4 LEDs (I think in series). I chose to use the Glowdive one, as my Hugyfot housing uses the hot shoe fitting to hold the pressure check system lights. I rebuilt the whole thing, and it now has several modules connected by computer plugs. The main circuit board and the battery holders sit at each end of the camera tray; the hot shoe wiring now has a break plug in it to connect it to the new circuit. Most importantly the LEDs are mounted on a plate positioned directy underneath the fibre optic bulkhead fitting. It all now works a treat, and I'm about to build a neater version. If you're interested, I put some pictures up. Pete
  12. Hi Eddcar. Many thanks for your replies. More food for thought! I'll post more if I get anywhere! Thanks. Pete
  13. Simon. Sent you a PM....did it arrive? There may have been a nut loose behind the keyboard this end...... Thanks. Pete
  14. Hi. Does anyone know of any alternative to Hedwig's device, as he is no longer making them? I'm currently experimenting with some broken compact cameras and am currently disassembling some disposable cameras, but it would be nice to know if someone has already been roun d this loop. Pete
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