pooley

From listening to the OP, then a 4/3rd camera would be my recommendation. No concerns over IQ once used competently, you can pick up a reasonably priced 2nd hand setup which if you go with a manufacturer like Nauticam that offers good upgrade capabilities then it will be a smooth transition come the inevitable upgrade! Lighter than dslr / full frame mirrorless, good water optics for the future, possibly more cash available to spend on quality strobes that should last longer than any other part of the kit. Just please please, be competent in the water before taking the rig down Mike

Hi, welcome to Wetpixel, and welcome to the world of making your bank manager cry! You're likely to get lots of good, and possibly contradictory, advice with such a wide ranging question. There can be no doubt that the future of photography lies with mirrorless cameras but that's a very long way off saying dslr's are obsolete - most are still superb kits better than a large majority of shooters will ever need. The camera itself, whilst the heart of the system, won't be the most expensive part of the whole system - you need to be aware of the additional costs of add ons, not only strobes, but arms, cables, vacuum systems etc when pricing things up. So, that comes to budget - and be realistic here - it escalates fast! Will you be happy with 2nd hand? What do you intend to shoot - macros, wide angle or both? How far do you travel? If you're normally travelling by road, weight isn't too much of an issue but if you plan to fly to hard to reach locations then you may benefit from looking at a micro 4/3rd setup as opposed to a full dslr/full frame mirrorless rig. If you could answer some of the above then maybe we can tailor more personal answers Mike

Interesting Tim, cheers for those - coming from a soon to be Retra owner! Mike

What are you planning on shooting? If its CFWA or animals in the blue then stick with smaller dome. If you need better corners for reefscapes and the like, then you might prefer a larger dome. Mike Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Apologies pal, I missed your post. Thanks for your advice, seems to fit in with what others are saying much appreciated Cheers tinman, a bit worrying that they're closing the bars up from our perspective . I'll make sure I ask Nautilus what's going on with the cages and take a smaller dome with me Mike

Definitely looks a focus issue to me rather than a movement blur as there is no sideways movement in the shots, and on the first the texture of the crab is still visible even though its a long way off being sharp. What Chris says makes sense, and I would suggest trying out those settings, and maybe more, in a filled bath with some form of static subject to shoot so you're in total control of any movement etc and make a note of which settings are giving sharp results at what distance Mike

Thanks again for all the responses - once we get the all clear to travel, I'll be off to try some of the suggestions Mike

It sounds like you've set up the camera how it suits you - and that's exactly how it should be. It doesn't matter which way the rings/dials go, as long as you understand them. Ask 10 people here how theirs work and you'll get 10 different answers, but as long as you understand your settings then that is the right way your camera should be set up for you Mike

This listing is nothing to do with me, but there is one here - http://www.uwpmag.com/?p=underwater-photography-equipment-for-sale Mike

Hi Keri, I've got an R5 for topside use and its undoubtedly a great camera. I'm fighting with every sinew not to house this with the WACP as I already have a very good D500 setup! I feel your pain on the considerations! If you already have the WWL-1 lens, then maybe consider going to a Sony setup. Fantastic cameras, and the A7R4 is a relative (and I use that word loosely) bargain, certainly no more expensive than the R5 The reason I suggest that is you can use the WWL-1 with the Sony 28-60 and get the benefits from a wet lens you already own. For a fisheye, unless you want to do the full circular shots, them you could adapt one of the 15mm fisheyes to your Sony and save some money. The Canon 8-15 is superb but a lot more money if you don't want the 8mm end. Mike

Are you still in Makadi Bay? If so, try diving the house reef by the Serenity hotel - it really took me by surprise how good it was once you go about 15m north of the pier where all the snorkelers stop. Loads of fish, turtles etc - I did 2 dives there taking 2 teenagers from or group on their first dives, and my buddy and I agreed it wasn't far off the outer reefs. A good way to spend an hour or so away from the hotels without doing a full boat trip! Mike

Nice one Ian, thanks for the input. The Scubapro is certainly getting the plaudits here! I've got ages to decide as I won't buy until travel is confirmed and I may well service my old regs, get a new jacket and air integrated computer rather than my initial thoughts. With regs though I'll look at those - I see them everywhere with divemasters and instructors. I'll have to find somewhere that will let me try a wing style BCD - so many seem to prefer them, but never having tried one I don't want to just buy one without at least a little pool test first cheers Mike

Thanks Wolfgang, You're right about the Apeks orgs, I've kept mine serviced and I've no complaints about their performance, it was more a case of weight considerations, but there may well be a case for sticking with them As for the jacket, I think its going to have to be a case of spending time in a store and looking at exact features Mike

Certainly an interesting BCD there Tom! Not sure I'll find anything like it in my local dive shop though! Some good points in the text over what to consider though, so thanks Mike

Thanks, Adam, interesting words on the jacket style Mike