MikeVeitch

I agree that Olympus is the best point and shoot cameras around due to easy manual modes compared to other manufacturers. However, if you are having trouble finding one try the sonys. Canons and Nikons only have silly preprogrammed modes designed for land use. Sonys have small and versatile plexiglass type housings readily available. Problem with them is lack of hotshoe type strobes. (Personally i think slave strobes based on reflection of inside flashes are a waste of money) Many people have come onto my boat with these small housings and used attachable red filters with great results. However, Olympus cameras, far and away the most versatile of the point and shoots, should be easy to find in Bangkok, Singapore, and HK no?

If you are wondering if you can change the focus in post production i am afraid not, not even the wonderous Photoshop can fix an out of focus photo. In a photo like this with your main subject so small it is best to try to zoom further in and use spot focus. If you are using one of the other focus options then your camera will have a hard time focusing on such a tiny subject. Mind you if you are using a consumer camera then this is a rather moot point. In the future try to keep your shutter button pressed half way down to lock your focus on one part of the frame while recomposing your shot. Even better would be a special macro lens for whatever camera you own, not only will you have a better chance of focusing but this will enable you to fill the frame more with your subject and achieve better composition.

My name is Mike Veitch, have been working aboard live aboards in the Pacific for the last five years teaching photography and shooting photos when i get the chance. Back on land now and checking out wetpixel for updates on the digital world. I shoot Nikon cameras, Ikelite housings and a variety of strobes. Look forward to being able to help people with their photography. Check out my photo library at www.bigblueimages.com

I agree that it looks photoshopped because of the blue. Great idea though and i like the back and above shot because it gives great detail of the sharks stripes and patterns, also creates nice interaction with shark and diver.

The ULCS, TLC, the new sea and sea, and i think the new Ikelite all come in pretty much a standard size these days, therefore they are all interchangeable. Personally i use TLC and i love em. Most improtant, especially if shooting macro as well as WA is to have multiple arms set up. I think a good set up would be 4 inch arms and then a longer arm as well, 12 inch is good but shorter would probably be better for you at first. If you like to shoot close focus wide angle you need to get the strobes into some fairly strange positions, thats why you want a two part arm as opposed to one long arm. Watch out for strong currents though, i have had my strobes come back and hit me in the face on occassion in the strong reef hook dives in Palau and Tahiti...

One basic rule of thumb i like to tell my students for wide angle and manual. For an average sunny tropical day: Before 9am and after 3pm shutter speed 1/60 Between 9 and 3 1/125 to 1/250 These will give you nice average blues as long as you are not pointed up to the sun. Shooting toward sun a whole different story. Once you set the shutter then you can worry about subject exposure by playing with your f-stops. This is all to do with distance, YS 120 Full power and diffuser exposes correctly 5.6 at around 3 ft. For a new camera this is a great starting point until you are more comfortable. Have fun and experiment!

I am sure a few of you out there know myself or my fellow contributors from several different liveaboards in the Pacific. I have launched a new website at www.bigblueimages.com I am having a sizing issue at the moment but will fix that soon. Please check it out. Mike Veitch