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Everything posted by MikeVeitch

  1. I would go to f5.6, that will help a little. The key thing why you are getting "haze" in this sort of a shot is what Tom mentions, shooting toward the light. If you are in the shallows like this and using natural light you need to get the sun behind you, it will help illuminate the sealions and bring out the colour. Shooting at a downward angle in these situations also works, similar to your third shot. Also, don't be afraid to try strobe, these guys are getting close enough to you for that, just bring the strobes out really wide and point them parallel with the lens and keep the front of the strobes behind the front of the housing. with strobes an fstop of 5.6 - 11 is good for subjects such as these that will be 2-4 feet away from you
  2. Can you please post a few samples of what you ended up getting? Also, let us know the settings of each shot. Thanks
  3. Tim, actually the reason I mention backscatter is this, when one of the students gets an absolutely fantastic image, well composed with really nice lighting and I have a look and tell them what a great image it is they then say: "Ya, but there is some backscatter". And they mean the 5 miniscule bits of scatter that pretty much show up because they are shooting in a high nutrient in the water column area such as Lembeh. When I explain that a little bit of scatter is normal in such conditions they say something like "but I want ones like I see on the internet that don't have any scatter at all". Thats what I mean by unrealistic Worked, great images!
  4. Good points gents, very good points. Alex, I get a link not found on that link
  5. Just finished teaching another group photo workshop a couple of weeks back and ran into something that I have been noticing a lot more in recent years. One of the things I see from newer photographers is that they seem to get discouraged by even a small amount of backscatter in their photos. Now we all know that there will always be a few specks of stuff in the vast majority of photos, both macro and wide angle, simply because we are using strobes underwater. This most recent workshop was in Lembeh and the visibility wasn't the absolute best so of course there was expectation of some backscatter no matter how well strobes were positioned (if photographing toward the water column) My point of discussion is as follows: With the popularity of social media outlets such as FB, Twitter, Instagram etc it seems that the vast majority of underwater photos don't have a single touch of scatter but instead feature flawless black or blue backgrounds. There is nothing wrong with post processing images and everyone wants to post their best stuff to impress folks so very rarely are images with scatter posted without editing all of it out. Therefore, does this profusion of perfect images create unrealistic expectations for beginners or casual uw photographers? Are new photographers frustrated when they see so many "perfect" images out there yet can't get the exact same results straight from the camera even with almost perfect strobe positioning? Do new photographers know there is post processing work done on these images or do they expect the same results all the time? I am not trying to start a debate about post processing etc but rather looking for opinions from newer photographers whether they experience frustration from high expectations due to exposure to social media?
  6. To be honest, when I was there the current wasn't so bad, we had loads of hammers and 13 whalesharks during our time in Wolf and Darwin (it was first week of Nov) I don't recall if it was half moon or not but the currents were nothing compared to Blue Corner or the Tuamotus or Komodo or such.. I would have no hesitation bringing the DSLR rig with me on the dives. However, saying that, currents change all the time and you will just need to look at the conditions before dive time and make the decision then. I would certainly bring the whole rig so as not to avoid disappointment.. Bring a good reef hook
  7. i like the shot where the snakes swim into the diver legs and scare the heck out of him! hahaha
  8. I have just returned from a great trip to Komodo with the Mermaid 1 liveaboard, a Bali/Komodo/Bali itinerary, 9 nights with 8 days of diving, 25 June to 4 July. We were able to dive all of the hotspots in Komodo as well as the beautiful Angel Reef and others around Moyo and Satonda. I have put together a brief highlights video of the trip, which were many! the only thing missing is the Mola Mola at Manta Alley that I missed! I was the only one to miss it hahahaha.. oops. Shot with a Nikon D7000, Aquatica housing, 10-17mm and 60mm lenses, Fisheye FIX 7000 lights. Music by Audiomachine Enjoy!
  9. I have a pair of YS 120s that I bought new in 2001, I have probably had them in the water for something like 5000 dives. They started acting up in 2009 (shooting too hot even on 1/2 power) so I had them serviced and they have been fine since. So yes, I think a servicing is a good idea, you will get many more years out of those strobes, they are fantastic strobes. They are very powerful as well. But.. it could be something else such, most likely your distance from the subject. Any strobe is only good to about 6 feet (2 metres) from the subject underwater (and that is only if it's paired with the correct f-stop) I think you need to start your investigation with distances and f-stops (and ISOs) before we can properly diagnose the issue. At f5.6 and ISO 100 with the strobes on full power you should be able to illuminate the reef from 5 feet away no problem at all. At f22 and ISO 100 with strobes on full power then you will still overexpose somewhat at f22 from 1 foot away. However, there is no way you are going to illuminate the reef from 3-4 feet away on f22. What f stop settings are you using for what distances away from your subject and what strobe power? If you have your f-stop at f22 and you are 3 - 4 feet away from your subject you won't be able to light it properly.. So if you can post some examples of your underexposed photos with all info such as distance from subject, fstop, ISO, and strobe power that would help us try to figure out the issue
  10. Erin, nice set of before and afters for sure. You have really done a good job to bring back the colours. I am also interested to know your methodology. I would simply just pull the Highlights and exposure sliders down but I have a feeling there is a lot more to it than that!
  11. Interesting following this one along on FB and here. Erin, could you please post a "non" edited ETTR image that shows a lot of blue water? A typical WA scenic would be a good one to show what the blues look like when using this style before the editing process.
  12. great vid, amazing sardine action, which site where they on?
  13. Thanks guys, Peter, unfortunately can only get on Vimeo here sometimes as often it is "auto" blocked by the govt, so YouTube is the easiest
  14. We have a new opening for a single male on our Komodo 2015 liveaboard trip on the MV Ambai from 25 Sept - 4 Oct 2015, a 9 night trip for only 2375 Euro (not including Park Fees) For more information please visit our Underwater Tribe Komodo 2015 Page This is an excellent price for a liveboard trip in one of the premiere locations in Indonesia featuring both Wide Angle and Macro photo opportunities. Or please contact directly at info@underwatertribe.com
  15. I haven't posted a video on here in quite some time, so here is a short one of the beauty of Bali both above and below the water. Enjoy
  16. To get the most from TTL you still need to be in the right ballpark with your fstop settings to get decent results, try this with ISO 100 1 foot or less from subject = f16-f22 1-2 ft = f11-f16 2-3 ft = f8-f11 3-4 ft = f5.6 - f8
  17. Tiputa pass in Rangi is the only real deep one yes (But it can be done diving only to 30m) the corner and reef dives are not deep. If you go to Fakarava the sites aren't as deep, the south pass is shallow and the north pass can easily be done with 30m max. If I was to choose between Rangi and Fakarava I would choose Fakarava though, spend a few days in the north as well as a few days in the south. Rangiroa is also good, but Fakarava is better.. I would suggest contacting a few of the outfits there to ask about depth limits for your certs before you decide
  18. As someone who has spent at least 2 years working in each of those locations the one I am most drawn to visit again is Fakarava (and Toau if they can take you there for a day trip) Best time for French Poly is Nov-April, try to do full or new moon in Dec/Jan/Feb for the schooling eagle rays in Rangi which can bring in the hammers. However, as you will be diving with a CMAS organization, they are very strict on your dive experience, when inquiring tell them what your qualifications are and ask about depth limits, because they will limit you.
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