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Phil Rudin

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Everything posted by Phil Rudin

  1. Don't know why you would need the 30 M when the 16-50 works with both wide wet lenses like WWL-1/1B plus WWL-C and closeup lenses like CMC-1/2 and SMC-1/2 or any of the many other 67mm threaded C/U lenses.
  2. Hi Dan I do not have the focus gear, lens and port still available.
  3. My review of Blackwater diving in the Palm Beach, Florida area in the current issue #121 of us-mag.com, this is a FREE PDF download.
  4. My review of the UW Technics TTL flash converters for most cameras, housings and UW flashes. From the current FREE issue of uwpmag.com
  5. Nauticam has today updated the port charts for Sony cameras. The new 14mm F/1.8 lens is included and the recommend port extension for the 230mm Nauticam port is the 30mm. I stand corrected on the use of the 30mm extension with the Zen port after further tests I can find no vignetting with the 30mm extension. Nauticam has also introduced a new N100 to N120 25 port adapter to use the 14mm with the WACP-2 the AOV with this configuration is 140 degrees.
  6. Hello Kramer, In the Nauticam NA-A1 housing I am able to use the same camera tray and have the following controls working. All of the controls on the rear of the housing with the exception of the C3 bottom seem to lineup. The of the controls of both side of the housing also seem to lineup. I have occasionally had issues where I turn the camera on from the housing control but then can't get the same control to turn the camera off. Most of the time the on/off works. Because the camera can be completely reprogrammed to use just about any control for any function I don't think you would have any issues with the A7R IV in the A1. housing. Be aware that I have not yet tried to uses the A7R IV in the water with the A1. The A1 is such a great camera that it is all I have been using since it arrived. Also be aware that the A1 should out preform both A9 and A9 II out of the water as well as in the water. Also be aware that if you are looking for a housing the size of the A6000 series the A7C housing is excellent.
  7. Hi Gary, The NA-A7SIII is missing the Focus and Drive controls on the top left side of the housing. Many users of the A1 may not miss these controls but past A9/A9II users may miss the ability to shift focus and frame rates on the fly. The A1 housing also has the C1 & C2 control buttons on the top right of the housing rather than the A7SIII arrangement with one on top and one on the back of the housing. I also tried the Sony A7R IV body in the A1 housing and the basic controls which would allow me to shoot line up using the A1 tray. As a stills shooter I am hoping the the coming A7 IV will adapt to the A1 housing as a backup camera.
  8. I now have the Sony 14mm F/1.8 in house and I have done a few tests. Using the Nauticam NA-A1 housing for the A1 camera and the N100 to N120 35.5 port adapter II the 14mm will vignette with an N120 30 extension using the 230mm port. I ended up using the N120 20 extension and it worked well but I believe you could go to a 25 extension without vignetting because with the 30 it was not at all sever. These were taken with the 230mmm dome and 20mm extension at a site called Teardrop off Palm Beach, Florida. Female Loggerhead Sea Turtles that are resting on shallow 40-50 ft reefs after laying eggs during the night on the beach. Sony A1, Sony FE 14mm F/1.8 with Zen 230mm dome port and 20mm extension. First photo ISO-250, F/16, 1/160th, second photo ISO-320, F/14, 1/160th sec. Both shot using two Inon Z330 flashes in manual. With puravidadivers.com on the vessel Aurellia, excellent crew and boat.
  9. If you are at all nostalgic Sony has recently introduced the E-mount LA-EA5 lens adapter. This adapter allows the use of both Sony-A mount and Minolta lenses. That means it can be used with SSM and SAM lenses with full AF even the lenses that don't have a motor. This allows you to use among others the Sony 16mm F/2.8 Fisheye, the 200mm F/4 macro and many other lenses that can be found in the used market. The Sony 16 fisheye does not focus as close (21cm) as many more modern fisheyes like Canon 8-15mm at 15cm but the Sony can get the job done it you are not shooting very close CFWA. The lens also has three built in filters, A 12, O 56 and B 12. This is not a lens I would necessarily recommend it you don't intend to use the adapter with other A-mount lenses. I appears to work well in the Nauticam 140mm dome port. The LightRoom lens profiles look horrible but if unchecked the images look as shot. Lens and adapter photo.
  10. I am not a video guy but I can tell you that the FE 28mm F/2 being an older lens tracks up to 15 FPS while the 28-60 being a newer lens with the newer faster linear motor will track up to 30 FPS. This means faster and more accurate AF particularly with newer cameras like the Sony A7s III, A7C, A7R IV and A1which can do 30 FPS with electronic shutter. All of the newer Sony FE lenses going forward have this 30 FPS ability from budget to high end like the new 14mm F1.8. I have used both lenses for 1000's of images and I can assure you that the 28-60 will not disappoint paired with WWL-1B. You can also do 28mm with WWL-1B and 60mm without WWL-1b on the same dive and get these very different looks.
  11. If you are using a Nauticam extension that is adapted to your Sea & Sea housing why would you need to change the extension to Nauticam dome port end. Zen makes the 230mm dome port with a Nauticam mount, Sea & Sea mount and several more.
  12. Hay Glenn, I have done a 4800 word review in the current issue of uwpmag.com. This is a free PDF download. If you have further questions after you read the review let me know.
  13. Are you suggesting that I have posted three images of different wrecks and then tried to say they are the same wreck? That is a bit of an insult particularly from someone who doesn't even use their real name on any of the his/her posts. Why don't you show use your images of this wreck rather than misrepresent mine.
  14. The SF-01 flashes are out of stock and unlikely to return so I would be looking for an alternative.
  15. Ikelite actually has two port systems the DLM system which has two flat ports with 67mm threads and the DL system which has a single flat port with 67mm threads (The FL port system has been retired). The DL system is for the larger housings while DLM is for systems like the A6000 series. My guess is that while the A7C is small enough to fit the mold for DLM ports those ports may be too small for large FF Sony lenses. Nauticam uses an N100 port for the 28-60 but for larger lenses like the 12-24mm the N100 to N120 adapter needs to be used. Also while a 24-70 kit lens would have been nice it would not work with the WWL-1 or the WACP which were both designed for 28mm. Another excellent lens choice for the A7C is the Tamron 17-38mm F/2.8 with ports starting at 180mm.
  16. Bradlys, Rather than to dwell on all of the negatives surrounding your purchase let me suggest how you can make what you have work for you. First the lions share of folks doing underwater photography are spending the amount you have spent or far less. Most are using GoPro cameras, cell phones in inexpensive enclosures, compact cameras in small acrylic housings and more. Many of the photographers commenting here at some time started with just such a system. For those who have not actually used one of the Seafrogs housing and just assume they are "cheap" this is my experience. I ordered a Seafrogs housing for a student who was riding his motorcycle to Florida from NY and was unable to carry both the housing and the camera equipment. He housed the Sony A7R IV and the 24-70 F/2.8 along with a Sony FE 16-35mm F/4 he borrowed from me. For the 24-70 he used the flat port and for the 16-35 he added the eight inch port. His intent was as yours to only snorkel shooting in both pool and shallow areas in the Keys, these sessions involved models. For snorkeling he was able to get by without any flash and some of the results were quite good. Corner sharpness is subjective, shooting models you often want a shallow DOF where corners don't matter. Regarding the Seafrogs housing it was as well built as any of the housings I have used from Olympus, Fantasea and others. The housings are a clam shell design and have a dual O-ring seal on the main door and a single O-ring seal on the bayonet mount interchangeable ports. The housings ship with a builtin moisture alarm and they offer a vacuum system which works very well for the $107US price, the pump is a bit flimsey. The ports also lock into place with a positive locking device and a backup retaining lock. The housing also comes with a single sync cord (Nikonos type) point with the hotshoe cord included. The housing also has two fiber optic ports and they sell a manual flash trigger for $30US and fiber optic cords for $30US. My client paid an extra $12US for expedited shipping and I had the system on my doorstep from HK in four days. If you already own the Tamron 17-26mm F/2.8 this would be an excellent choice paired with an eight inch dome port or you can test it with the six inch dome in a pool and see if the results are good enough for your needs. Regarding the single flash unit if you place it above the center of the dome port using the pictured $55US accessory which attaches to the cold shoe on top of the housing you should be able to get by for your trip. You could easily spend tens of thousands on better quality equipment but for those only doing U/W photography for a few days a year or for those wanting a system to use in the pool for shooting the kids the Seafrogs offerings are not a bad choice. Also go to the BLOG section of the seafrogs wed site and watch all of the tutorial videos on setting up and using the housings. They cover everything will will need to know about how to keep the housing dry on the inside.
  17. First image at 60mm no C/U lens, second image at 60mm with CMC-1, third image at 60mm CMC-1 with second CMC-1 stacked. As you can see with two C/U lenses DOF becomes paper thin but the Sergeant Major Fish eggs are larger in the last photo.
  18. The 28-60 plus WWL-1/1B is better than the 18mm behind any of the ports I have used it with. Again go to uwpmag.com and read Alex Mustard's articles on water contact lenses in the free back issues. If you don't understand the difference between water contact optics and using a dome port then you can't understand why a "kit" lens with WWL-1 or WACP can outperform even the best FF rectilinear lenses like the coming Sony 14mm F/1.8. Also the 28-60 with CMC-1 is by no means a replacement for a true macro like the 90mm but you can't shoot whales and nudibranchs on the same dive with the 90mm either. Regarding the 230mm port, I have an old ThinkTank carry-on shoulder bag and I can stand the 230mm port on its side inside the bag and still have room for the WWL-1B in the case.
  19. I have used the Sony 28mm F/2 and the Sony 28-60 with WWL-1 on R IV, A7C and A1 the 28-60 is the better option. You still have the issue of split images which can not be done well/at all with WWL-1. I have used the Zeiss Batis 18mm with 170, 180, 200 and 230 ports and for splits 170 is a little on the small side but doable.
  20. Used it and was not impressed. Requires the same port as the Sigma 15mm fisheye except with the 30mm extension. If you already own the Sony FE 28mm F/2 then it can get you in the ballpark but the real fisheye's for Sony like Canon 8-15 or Sigma 15mm are much better choices.
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