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Cp

Industry
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Cp last won the day on August 13 2015

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About Cp

  • Rank
    Eagle Ray

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://chrisparsons.net
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SoFL

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 5DIII, 7D, 1DC... more...
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam
  • Accessories
    Zen DP-230, DP-100-NCR
  • Industry Affiliation
    Nauticam USA
  1. Hi Steen, The CMC is primarily aimed at lenses like the fixed zoom lens on the larger sensor compacts, like the Sony RX100 series. It will also work well with the 60mm and 45mm macro lenses in the m4/3 world. The SMC is designed for a lens like the Nikon 105mm VR or Canon 100mm macro on an APS-C or FF SLR. In general, closeup lenses are not useful on lenses like Nikon 60mm because you are already so close to the subject that you can't get much closer. It just so happens that in this case that you can get a little extra magnification with the CMC + Nikon 60mm, about 1.5:1 at 10mm working distance. Yes, 10mm.... that's pretty close. If the 60mm was your only lens, then I might say this is useful, but in my opinion, you are better off with the SMC on the 105mm. For Canon APS-C shooters, the situation is a little different. In this case, the SMC is useful on both the Canon 100mm and the Canon EF-S 60mm macro lenses, but the CMC does not work with the EF-S 60mm macro. Hope that helps, Cheers, Cp
  2. Hi Moses, You can also bring the handles a little closer to the housing... there is some room for adjustment there. Cheers, Chris
  3. Hi Joe, When you put the camera on the tray, make sure the two prongs sit correctly on the switch. You should be able to rotate it using the little dial on the tray and hear it click on both sides. Generally, if you do that, it works fine once in the housing. If not, we will get it fixed for you asap. Drop us an email at innovation@nauticamusa.com and we can get it scheduled for you. Make sure to note your trip date so our service manager can make it happen. Regards, Chris P.S. I do agree with Eric though, thumb focus is great. If I was a Nikon shooter, I would glue that button on the front down and locked into the autofocus position, as I always seem to forget it is there when I pick up a Nikon.
  4. Hi HFM, Have you tried running with Auto FP turned off? Since D800 sync speed is rated at 1/250 anyway, it won't hurt to turn Auto FP off, and might help. I think as a general rule, Auto FP could pose problems for a strobe. Now, it's possible that the camera flash doesn't actually use FP flash (i.e. many smaller pulses) when shooting at 1/250, so this might be a mute point, but if it is actually doing a HSS flash, then it is likely this is the problem you are seeing. I don't see anything on Sea&Sea's website that the YS-D1 supports Auto FP, and even if it did, could still be the problem. I think it quite possible that the strobe is able to keep up for some of the pulses, but could miss on some of them, with the result being a dark band of the shot as you describe. And it would by nature be sporadic, depending on how much the light the TTL decides to throw, battery condition, etc. I tried doing a little googling about the Auto FP on the D800's popup flash, but much of what is talked about relates to external flashes, and not the popup itself. I don't have a D800 here I can test with but I'd be interested to hear if this is the issue here. Regards, Chris
  5. If you want to know what the actual difference in port length is, you can do the math: macro port 87: 87mm macro port 60 + 30mm extension: 60mm + 30mm = 90mm So 3mm total difference. Regards, Chris
  6. HI Moses, No worries. Though, we will have lots of demo gear down there, including GH4. Just saying' Let me know when you move down here, we can go for a bridge dive. Cheers, Chris
  7. Hi Moses, Thank you sir, you are very kind. Are you coming to Focus Underwater? Hope to see you then. Cheers, Chris
  8. I recall the water being a little chilly, but wasn't it wicked cold topside too?
  9. The press release for GH4 housing is now online at www.nauticamusa.com Cheers, Chris
  10. I'm going to borrow the 16-35 f/4 from Ryan next week for shooting whalesharks. I have an f/2.8 which I just got last year. I might have waited had I know this lens was coming. Oh well, I like the f/2.8. Björn, I think the 8-15mm is a great lens on FF, but yes, you do have to kind of think of it as a 15mm FF fisheye, with the occasional 8mm circular fisheye shot. Very good for CFWA; some people like to use a 1.4x teleconverter for CFWA with it. I'll try to post a couple of pics next week with 16-35 f/4. Cheers, Cp P.S. m1mm1m... nice avatar! I recognize that shot
  11. We're working on a press release now, so sooner rather than later, but I don't have a firm date just yet.. As you can see from some of the leaked pics, the main differences are built in handles (like as in the NA-EM1), the new port lock style, and the vacuum electronics standard. Look for the press release to hit next week... (there's a US holiday tomorrow, so no sense releasing when a big portion of our audience will be eating hot dogs and drinking cold beer... Cheers, Chris
  12. Yes. Yes, M16 can be used for HDMI [edit: among other things]. I did run the GH4 with the DP4 monitor and it worked well. Shogun isn't even slated to ship until "end of Q3 beginning Q4 2014". So having a housing "soon" doesn't seem too likely Cheers, Cp
  13. Sorry, only snapped a couple of iPhone pics at the hotel, teaser sort of shots, nothing showing substantial detail. We'll be working on a press release for this soon, complete with lots of photos. I'm going to take it to the Digital Shootout so hopefully can post some more video/stills from it next week, and maybe some photos of it being used. Cheers, Chris
  14. Hi All, We showed the prototype NA-GH4 housing at the Cine Gear Expo in Hollywood yesterday. I'll have it at the Scuba Show in Long Beach today for my presentation. If you are in the area and want to check it out, the presentation is at 2pm at the Seaside 5-A room, and I should be around either before or after, showing it to each of the 5 Nauticam dealers at the show. Hope to see you there. Chris
  15. Nope, just used scotch tape. Didn't use magic filters... I used a combination of some old school wratten filters. Sometimes people do this sort of testing and it becomes gospel on the internet. And sometimes they are right and sometimes wrong. There are lots of examples of where someone said something on the net and people just run with it. Internet crowd-think. Or non-think. I bump into people who shoot Canon at ISO 160 or 320 thinking that is the "native ISO" because of a test that someone posted a couple years showing sensor noise with with the lens cap on. I used to try to explain how that test is wrong and what they are actually doing is needlessly cutting their dynamic range by 1/3 stop. I've generally given up on that and just kind of nod my head. Next time I want to shoot with my lens cap on, though, it'll be at ISO 160... No more to share today, but I need to finish my video from Anilao that I shot with 1DC. Probably won't be this week as we have both the Cine Gear show and the Long Beach Scuba show this weekend. Cheers, Cp
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