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errbrr

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errbrr last won the day on October 14

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About errbrr

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    Manta Ray

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  • Website URL
    http://lizrogersphotography.com
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Melbourne, Australia

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Australia
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 5DIV
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam with 8" dome
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon z240 Mk IV x 5, Retras x 2

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  1. Thanks Colin for the zoomed/not zoomed pictures. I like numbers but I'm struggling to picture FOV metrics because it's not how I've thought about photos before. But being able to photograph a reasonably sized reef fish in a nice portrait and then turn around and take a picture of a whale on a single (perfect, obviously ) dive would definitely be two handfuls of cake for me! Are those shots uncropped?
  2. It is a beautiful shot. I would strongly suggest entering some of these into "real" photo competitions with judges, instead of popularity contests won by those with the most facebook friends.
  3. I've heard great things, and seen some fantastically sharp video but ultimately decided to get a 5D4 when I updated rather than an A7. Main decider was the battery life as the overall cost of camera plus housing was similar (and I already have access to a 15mm!).
  4. Guided group dives are a PITA for wide angle photography. I've had better success getting a more detailed personal briefing from the guide in advance, so I know if there's a reason we have to swim around at 5 knots or if I can hang back without missing something important. It also helps to discuss with the guide what would help - a slower swimming pace, not stopping to point out shrimps when I'm toting a 14mm lens, distracting the rest of the group with shrimp so I can photograph the jacks... Unless the guide has dived with a similar-sized camera system themselves or regularly guides other photographers, they are unlikely to know how to assist you. Guides who carry a GoPro on a stick and prioritise footage for the shop Facebook page over my shots are to be avoided. Once in the water you need to be either at the front of the group or the back of the group to avoid flailing limbs in every shot.
  5. Regarding swimmer's ear vs sore from too much equalising, I have always used a gentle pull on the ear lobe as a test. If that causes pain, it's more likely to be a swimmer's ear infection on the outside. If no increased pain from pulling your ear, something is wrong inside. I'd also caution against "too regular" use of alcohol drops. I had one dive trip where they aggravated my ears when used multiple times a day. Maybe I needed to work up to it and toughen up my ear drums!
  6. So many amazing shots - well done! I love the flounder, and the second shot of the long arm octopus.
  7. Yes, weight belt for snorkelling in cold water if you want to get off the surface. I'm not sure you need a dive shop to help you though...just some water deep enough to swim in, close to an edge to put the extra weights on. Put the wetsuit on, get in, add weights until you can duck dive a little under the water. Remove weights if you can't stay floating on the surface without swimming.
  8. Without generalising skillsets, find yourself a little old lady in your local area who does seamstressing and adjustments. Go there with the undersuit and let her scold you for buying it in the wrong size, and pin it to exactly where you want it. Come back in a week, hand over a very nominal amount of cash, and try on your perfectly adjusted undersuit. You could consider buying some non-cotton thread...cotton stitching soaks up the water if you do get a leak, as a buddy of mine found out with a secondhand undersuit one time. The key with all this is to pick the right little old lady! Avoid the "jeans hemmed in 10 minutes for $10" places at the mall.
  9. I also believe in the buy it right, buy it once philosophy. In your position I'd go with the Z330 and keep an eye out for good deals in the future. Keep in mind you will need an electrical sync cord and a triggerfish or similar to go with it, so that's an extra $200 or so. You can operate without but it will rapidly become frustrating. Keep in mind that when you upgrade your camera in future you will likely get better low light performance on a new sensor, reducing your need for really bright lights. Regarding comms when everyone is flashing really bright video lights - I have no solution here. I find cave diving with video lights difficult. It's like being muzzled, and impossible to get anyone's attention. Last point - you don't need to light the edges of the frame. If the cave is working against you, pick something nice and light that. It might be the silhouette of a diver in nice trim. Trying to light the walls of a big space all the way round rarely looks great. Below are images taken with two strobes on camera and one off camera, or no strobes at all. Emphasise the dark.
  10. Not sure I'd be keen to use glue to fill in a scratch. I'd get the replacement acrylic and do the changeover yourself. If it all goes wrong then send it off for professional intervention. No idea on the changeover method for the glass domes, sorry. Does it look like it's glued together?
  11. There are now international flights from Brisbane to Munda...the travel options are expanding.
  12. You want lots of strobes, but you can start with one or two. I would recommend starting with one powerful one (like the Z330) and then buying more of the same as you can afford it. There are advantages to having a matched set...I have six Z240s that I use off camera in the caves. More than two strobes per diver/model plus two for the camera is usually overkill, depending on the cave you are in so that gives you an idea of how many you might end up with If your budget restraints are significant then perhaps a set of used Z240s might work for you? I would only recommend them if you are diving in water colder than 25 degrees, as they are more likely to be on repeated full power dumps (and thus overheat and burn out) for cave diving. The Z330 supposedly has an overheating cut out in it. You might find some interesting effects from combining constant and strobe lighting as well. One issue will be that the strobe is much brighter than your video lights, so if you put the strobe on the camera and the video lights on your models then you may wash out the video light. The light drop off in water is why it's better to put more light on your models (as in, light source attached to them, not you). Then a little bit of light on the camera for triggering and foreground fill, and big bright strobes on the divers to light up the tunnel. Lastly, embrace the darkness. Caves are dark. If you light the whole thing up like daylight then it just looks like a pile of rocks. Show off the mystery in your photos by working out what to light and what to leave.
  13. Just to chime in a bit late - get the vacuum! On jumping with cameras, I see more risk of knocked or dropped rigs in trying to get someone on the boat to pass it to you, particularly in tricky conditions. I tend to giant stride and use my fins to slow my entry. I'm holding the camera at chest or chin height, so by the time that bit of me gets wet I'm not descending particularly fast. The main thing to avoid is smacking the dome port into the surface of the ocean or your tanks on the way down.
  14. What brand is it? In some cases the acrylic is glued in place, whereas in others (Nauticam) it is held in by a snaplock o-ring system that is easily user changeable.
  15. Great lines in your schools of fish, love it.
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