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DuikKees

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Posts posted by DuikKees


  1. I still don't understand that none of the manufacturers has invented a system of wireless control. Both audio and radio work good underwater and is fast enough for strobetriggering. No more synccords, just a little antenna in the bulkhead. Wouldn't that be nice?

    Studiophotographers have this system already for decads..

     

    BTW for the future: this idea is now copyright Kees


  2. I have jumped a lot with my Ike housings on rough seas. But NO WAY I will jump with the 8"dome. The momentum is too big for the small locks.

    With the 6" you can press the housing with the dome hard om your stomach and fall in the water on your back to break the surface.

     

    Your mask will stay on your face if you suck it hard. A good bite will hold your reg.

     

    I dropped my housing on the floor once when the 8" dome was on. Imediatly one portlock broke and the 8"dome fell off. (Not verry reassuring)

     

    I use several bands, elastics, extra nuts and bolts to secure the strobes and arms (The Ike armsystem will come loose with a big jump). The 8" dome is for quit water, where the housing can he handed to you.


  3. Okee with WA in low viz and low light, I can understand that.

    But I have never even thougt about using a focuslight in such conditions, I just prefocus since the depth of field of my FE is enormous.

     

    For how long will the light shut off? In low light the shutterspeeds can be verry long.


  4. Is this focuslight-thing really such a big issue? I use for many years and dives a simple $10,- LED divelight. I sanded the frontglas to diffuus the light so I have a nice wide beam. The camera focusses nice with this light.

     

    OK, it has no lightsensor to shut of when the strobe fires. But usually the shutter is fast and aparture is small, so you will not see any LEDlight in the photo.

     

    Am I missing something that I must have a dedicated aiminglight?


  5. Really nice pics, I really like the effect.

     

    After seen your pics I ran to my shed to make a simple DIY-snoot myself. I must say, it is terribly hard to light the subject with the snoot on the strobe even above water, so I can imagine the time it took to poduce these great results underwater.


  6. OK Cameras Underwater have been onto Ikelite and it seems that the angled bulkhead connector is a factory fit only item so looks like I stay with what I have....mind you a mate has the angled connector on his housing and the leads still get buggered...maybe the new leads will solve the problem.....

     

    Martin

     

    Familiar problem, I had to resolder my cable a couple of times as well, it becomes shoter every time.

    I also always take my solderkit on holiday.

     

    For straight bulkheads, I designed this solution and it works great. A friend of mine has them in production.

     

    IKC.jpg

     

    They are sold here for €16 (no profits, just productioncosts):

     

    http://www.scubacam.nl/catalog/product_inf...amp;language=en

     

    We are working on a 90' bulkhead.


  7. Theres fit and fit isnt there

     

    I have been using a d80 in a sea and sea d100 housing

     

    The d80 is smaller than the D100 but I think (and this may be bad news) bigger than the D70

     

    I had to make a new base thicker plate and lost most of the controls and do a bit of vandalism to the controls that were fouling

     

    dont give up without trying

     

    S

     

    The D80 is a lot smaller than the D70. I use the D80 in a Ike D70 housing, which works fine.

    I made a fillingplate to compensate the smaller hight of the D80 and I modified (or vandalismed) the controls a bit.

     

    You cannot use the controls on the left side of the screen, but the following controls are in line:

    - shutter

    - power

    - aperture

    - flashcontrol

    - focusselector

     

    The following controls I miss a bit underwater:

    - ISO

    - playback

     

    In a Ike housing it should be easy to ad extra pushbuttons for these controls, but still haven't found a place or shop where I can get these.

     

    Unfortunately the lens is not 100% centered in the dome, but for so far I didn't encounter any problems or distortions with the 8"dome and a flat port. It might be a problem with zoomgears, but I only use primes underwater.

     

    Just have fun vandalismize your housing too!!


  8. @Alex: hahaha, :P I thought you ment the reflecting disc on my girl's face. I already got some reactions that those masks are "not done" anymore.

     

    I am thinking about joinig the competition next year, probably the Grevelingen one.

     

    Kees, can you explain me a bit what is allowed on the processing side. can you use raw, or is it jpg only.

     

    E.g. white balance: just the kelvin and hue settings, or can you use something like the colour wheel as well.

     

    Contrast; just the contrast slider, or can you also use curves and levels. I asked the organiser a question about this once, and he said i could use that, unless i recieved a message back it was otherwise

     

    Well, the reaction of the organisator is actually the truth. It really is no hard rule.

     

    What I did:

    I used RAW (ofcourse)

    WB: only Kelvin and hue

    contrast: only plain levels, no curves

    sharpen: smartsharpen in PS

    You probably get away with a lot more, but I didn't.

     

     

    Just join the championship, not the Grevelingen-cup (It is for starters). You really will learn a lot, you have to shoot in 4 different categories and that is a whole different thing.

    You have to make a good plan on forehand, scouting the divesites weeks before, planning the dives for tides and currents etc. etc. I did 6 dives over two days, where the shortest was 17 minutes for the macro (I knew where, what and how I wanted to shoot the picture). The longest was 55 minutes before I finally find a reasonable fish (that is the only categorie you can't plan).


  9. I've used these on last two trips. I do like them, a good agility moving within close quarters, yet good power when needed, at a good price and lightweight. The sizes run small. I wear size 12 shoe, but wear size 9.5-10.5 in these flippers for a good (bare-foot) fit.

     

    http://www.leisurepro.com/Prod/CategoryID_...SFVR.html?Hit=1

     

    How opinions defer. I tried these, but I find these really horible.

     

    They are quite comfortable, but I use them also in the pool for swimtraining and underwaterhockey. And than you simply can't get all your power to the blade, they bent too much and loose all the energy when kicked hard (you can kick what you want, but you won't go any faster). So I can't believe they are any good in currents.

     

    I now have the Avanti Excel and they are realy good. I personally think they are as good as the old ff-quatro's.


  10. If you already have an D70, I'd buy the D80. (that's what I did)

    The D80 fits in a D70 housing without severe modifications, so you can keep your D70 as a backup.

     

    Right now I am modifiing my Ike D70-housing for a D80. Yesterday I did a first test dive and I have to do some minor changes.

     

    When I am finished, I will write a review about the modifications.

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