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emptech

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emptech last won the day on October 10 2016

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About emptech

  • Rank
    Triggerfish
  • Birthday 04/24/1948

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.emp-tech.net
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  • Skype
    emptch2

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sacramento, CA USA
  • Interests
    Photography, electronics, machine shop, auto restoration

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 7D MkII, 7D, 30D, GL2, FLIR E40
  • Camera Housing
    Ikelite 7D, 30D, GL2
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ikelite DS125, 160 L&M 2000
  1. Somehow the white metal ring on one of my strobes was dented, distorted, I just bent it back, don't know what caused it. It had no effect on my strobe. However, during a trip to Bonaire, my ds160 received a crack in the clear lens off to the edge where it wasn't noticed, the strobe flooded, not repairable. It's just a metal ring, but the fact that it is bent, your strobe took a hit and should be examined. Jim
  2. I was asking if you were willing to sell the DS-160 strobe by itself, not the complete system - Jim
  3. The question is, will ikelite sell the socket, I've found that for some reason there are a lot of parts they will not sell. I have had to machine my own parts sometimes. Jim
  4. Funny you should ask, I recently had a DS160 strobe flood, thank you Delta Airlines. Although I don't have a DS51, I'd like to share my experience with the DS160. On my first dive recently at Bonaire, I didn't notice the small crack in the front of the strobe lens, what I did notice is that the strobe worked for a while until the electronics got wet with seawater and quit. I thought it was the O ring leaking, the one that connects to the battery, I was wrong. When I got home, I noticed what appeared to be, two slotted-head screws that were visible when the battery was removed. They were actually nuts, each one had a tiny O ring. Once they were removed I was able to separate the front and rear half of the housing, lots of black water ran out, ugh! I found two cracks in the clear plastic, one view-able from the front, and the second crack under the O ring. Taking four small screws out allowed me to take apart the lens assembly, which held the flashtube. Looking inside the main part of the housing, I saw I think four circuit boards, all lined up in slots. To remove them I had to remove two things, first the knob on the top which chose TTS, Full, etc. A phillips screw was removed, and the knob pulled off, revealing a special rubber seal, kind of like an O ring. I then unscrewed the nut inside the housing holding the electrical connector, that allowed the connector to be pulled from the housing, making room for the circuit boards to slide out. I'm in the process of cleaning up the circuit boards right now, one wire broke off and I found a burned trace. I suspect that when the unit flooded, the oscillator quit, causing full current to go through one of the transistors and inverter transformer, blowing the trace like a fuse. Once everything is thoroughly cleaned with a tooth brush and a small brass wire brush, and after the trace is repaired, the wire soldered back, I will attempt to power up the unit. I've worked with strobe circuits before, even used to design them many years ago, and am quite aware of how lethal they can be. By the way, the three parallel capacitors in the flash circuit are 900 uf each at 300 VDC, so that would be 2700 uf at some working voltage below 300 VDC. I'm attempting to purchase the front part from Ikelite, I'll let you know how that works. I considered shipping this unit back to them, but the damage was so extensive, I don't think they will offer to fix it, and it may not be worth the money they want. I'll try to keep you posted on the repair as it continues. I don't know if any of this applies to the DS51 or not, but I suspect that the designs are similar. I hope Ikelite will help me out on this and not require me to send the basket-case back to them. Jim
  5. This is a replay to an old thread. Ikelite's information on the Sigma 17-70mm F2.8-4 DC Macro OS HSM is not accurate. I just purchased the lens thinking I would have to use the velcro trick and didn't. They must have re-designed the lens, although it is a type 2 lens, the lens barrel diameter where the zoom gear attaches is 2.825" in diameter, will use the Ikelite #0073 zoom sleeve with no problems at all. The overall length of the lens, from the camera to the end when extended is 4.860". I'm going to use it with an 8" dome, possibly their 5511.5 kit. I've tried the 5510.45 8" dome, 5510.54 1.25" extension ring, and 5510.16 extension, and have over an inch of space between the lens and the dome, I may consider the 5511.5 kit. I'm checking with Ikelite now. I'll try to report back on my photo results. Jim
  6. I've had no issues using a Canon 17-40mm in a 6" dome. The photos shot here http://65.78.143.142/webcontent/holtzman/underwater/CozumelUW15/were all shot with the 17-40. Near the end are a couple of under and over shots. I just bought a Sigma 17-70mm lens and will be using it in an 8" dome soon. Jim
  7. I received the brand new, latest version of the Sigma 17-70mm F2.8-4 DC Macro OS HSM lens. According to Ikelite's lens chooser, this lens will not work because the diameter of the barrel is too large, although there are work-arounds. The new lens has a barrel diameter of 2.825" and an extended length of 4.860". It works fine with their #0073 zoom sleeve kit. With an 8" dome, it will require an extension a little longer than what Ikelite recommended for the original 17-70mm. I believe their 8" kit 5511.5 will do the trick, just confirming with Ikelite. Looks like I hijacked my own thread ... Jim
  8. I ended up going to a 7D MkII, solves the focus issue, but believe it or not, the focus motor makes a small noise that gets picked up by the camera's microphone, had to edit out the "noise." The video from the 7D MkII is better because of the focus issue. Jim
  9. I ended up going with the Canon 17-40 L lens. I purchased a 6" dome, and have been very happy with it. The reason I left the 17-85mm is that it had to use a +4 diopter, which eliminated any above water shots. The only negative thing with the 17-40 is I wish it was longer than 40mm, for small targets I have to do a lot of cropping. Now that I've used the 17-40 for a couple years, I'm going to try a Sigma 17-70mm, but it will require an 8" dome. The lens is on order and will order the dome soon. Reviews say the 17-70 isn't a good wide angle nor a good macro, but I think it will give me a little more reach. I'm also thinking of a macro, 60mm or 100mm soon. Jim
  10. To answer the question, why autofocus? I'm used to using a real video camera, a Canon GL2, until I retired it. The only issue I've ever had with autofocus, I was on a pelagic dive off Kona, when the camera couldn't see anything in the background, it would hunt. When I switched to the 7D, as the distance to my subject would change (beyond my control), I would have to pause the camera, re-focus, and continue, it then broke up my clips. My Ikelite housing will not permit manual focus with the 17-40mm lens I'm using. I then switched to the 7D MkII, which can autofocus during the shoot. I've not had a problem with the cam hunting, it seems to make the noise periodically without changing the subject distance. I am using the built-in microphone on the camera. Sound isn't that important but it is neat to capture the whales talking to eachother. I can't reach the AF/MF switch on the lens barrel, no control there. I can't remember if through a push button setting I can turn AF off and on. Perhaps through the "drive/af" button. I think it's a small price to pay to get good video. BTW, my GL2 also made a noise, you could always hear the tape drive motor running, can't have it all. Jim
  11. Pete: I've had the problem, on the underside of the black camera tray, about an inch and a quarter (3cm) from the screw that holds the camera down, you should see the head of a small white nylon screw head. If you back the screw out a turn at a time, you will notice that it will tilt the back of the camera towards the rear plate. There are also two pins sticking up from the camera tray that have black plastic bumpers, changing the size of the bumpers will also set how far the camera goes back. There is no need to put spacers under the camera or camera tray. If you should decide to go from a 7D to a 7D Mk2, I have made a couple of modifications to the 7D housing to accept the new camera, this link should take you to my posts on the modifications: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=55360&do=findComment&comment=368772 BTW, every day when I finish a dive, I take my housing into the shower and hose it off with fresh water. At the end of a dive while still in a hotel, I soak the camera equipment. When I get home, I continue soaking the equipment to dissolve any salt. I also lubricate the push button controls with either a tiny amount of silicon grease or silicon oil. I have a can of dow-corning oil, can't recall where I got it. Jim
  12. Hi, kind of late with this response, but I'd like to add some info. In my situation, using an Ikelite housing, a 6" dome port and a 17-40mm Canon lens, there is no option for manual focus. There is one gear ring, for the zoom only. I set the camera up for only one focus point and use auto focus. Once in a while without thinking, I might focus on the background, snap the photo and without noticing until it's too late that the main subject was slightly out of focus. I just posted that while shooting u/w video with the MkII, I'm getting strange noises, I suspect the focus motor. Since my 7D, previous to the MkII would not auto focus while shooting video didn't make this noise. Right now I'm editing the noise out in post, but it would be nice if it was never there. I'm not sure what other options there are, to turn auto focus off, but that was a feature that I wanted when I moved to the MkII. Jim
  13. Now that I've added a 7D MkII to my u/w water camera collection, I've noticed something strange. Since my 7D was unable to constantly focus while in the video mode, there were no apparent problems with the sound. Since the 7D MkII can continuously focus while shooting, I think the focus motor is generating a sound that is being picked up in the audio. While editing some video taken a few months ago, I've noticed that periodically there are loud clicking sounds. The waveform is very consistent. At first I thought it was one of the video light arms moving, but I get the same sound out of water, while shooting video with the camera in the housing. I just learned that not all focus motors are created equally. The Canon lens, 17-40 L series has a USM motor, which is supposed to be quieter than other motors. I've considered moving to a Sigma 17-70mm lens which can do macro. Sigma makes three of the lenses, but of the three lenses, only one will fit into my Ikelite housing because of the diameter, the one that does not have the ultrasonic lens motor. So this lens noise must be a common problem, but I've never heard of it. If this is the cause, I see two solutions, one is to add background music or ocean sounds to the video to cover up the noises, or go in with the waveform editor, locate every occurrence of the sound and drop the volume to a point where it isn't noticeable. So far that's what I'm doing, but it is a tedious job. I'm using Magix Edit Pro 17 Plus, which has some noise filters, but the duration of these bursts are too long and high in amplitude for the filter to correct. My question is, are other people experiencing the same thing? Are there other solutions? Jim
  14. Eric: I'm in Maui, sitting back between dive days, killing time, what a better place to spend time (wetpixel). I know this is an old post, but looking at the D ring, I would have to wonder how it was manufactured. If I needed the same one, I'd probably make it in two pieces of stainless steel and then weld the two pieces together, I can't imagine putting the pieces together then doing the final bends into the tube. BTW, had a chance to attend one of your seminars a few years ago, you have improved my lighting and reduced backscatter. I've been a diver since the 60's and have machine shop skills, have built housings, etc. I just modified an Ikelite housing made for a Canon 7D into one that would accept a 7D mII, Ikelite said it wouldn't work, never give up. Jim
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