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About mooner

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    Sea Nettle
  1. Hi All- I have heard rumors of a dual-strobe sync adapter/cable from Subal for their 550ex housings. Does anyone know anything about this??? Hoping this will solve my impatience for manual strobe control... -Erik 1Ds / 1DII + Subal
  2. I use the Canon 100mm macro -- I agree with Simon, it IS difficult to use underwater. I bought some dioptre lenses for it, hoping that will help. Haven't tried them yet -- anyone have any suggestions which to use? +1, +2 or +3 (or some combo)? Also tried both 15mm fisheye and 14mm L rectilinear. Both are fun to use, but I think the 15mm fisheye is a little more useful. I also have the 16-35 L, but no zoom ring for it... Will try later maybe? -Erik 1Ds / 1DII + Subal
  3. Ok, your ideas are proving helpful. This seems to work relatively well: - Camera set to M (1/200 @ any f stop) - Inon set to -3 to -5 - 550ex set to E-TTL This seems to get acceptable exposures at any f stop (have to fiddle with the Inon output), but I'm artificially limiting my strobe output to ensure the Inon will fire for both pre-flash and flash. I haven't tried manual power on the 550 yet -- seems a little pointless. I could have saved $$$ by just getting 2 Inons... I'll fiddle with it some more and report back with in-water results. Any additional ideas anyone?
  4. Hi Herbko- I just got my Subal CD1 Dual. I'm running a 550ex land strobe in a Subal strobe case with Inon Z-220 on the other side. Any idea if this resistor mod will screw up my other strobe? Have you tried getting TTL to work too? -Erik Moon Canon 1Ds/1DII - Subal CD1 Dual - Subal + Canon 550ex - Inon Z-220
  5. Hi James -- good to "see" you again. Everyone else -- thanks for your thoughts. Any additional ideas still welcome... Yes, in retrospect, this may not be an entirely well-thought configuration. I was confident that I could get the Inon to work with the optical slave... I would if I could, but I don't think it is possible to run 2 E-TTL strobes (550ex or similar) corded. I believe you could use a RF slave 550ex WIRELESS -- but have no idea how well that would work underwater in the Subal housing. Not to mention I didn't buy another one & they are HUGE... Does anyone know if there is a way to shoot the 1D & 550 in old-style TTL? I may simply resort to using only the 550ex for Macro and use both only for wide in a weird TTL + Manual combo. I hate to say it, but maybe I need to get another Inon for wide shots? Can I even connect an Inon to an S-6 bulkhead? I'm still scratching my head on this one... -Erik
  6. For example, see: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...ssPageName=WDVW
  7. Hello mdfaunce- I had the predecessor to your camera (Sony DSC-P1) in a similar predicament. I bought the Ike DS-50 (the grey digital-friendly version). It worked very well. Make sure you don't buy the arm/mount sight-unseen. I hated my rig (strobe and camera were not the problem), but once the investment is made, it is hard to justify changing... I don't know anything about the OceanBrite, but I'd advise staying away from the Sony light. Like you said, it is a video light -- and not a particularly good one. Hotspots the center and color temperature is too warm. When I switched to DSLR, I sold all my stuff on eBay. I didn't get much over $500 for the camera + sony housing + the Ike DS-50. So you might be able to find a similar deal if you're willing to buy used... Good luck! -Erik Moon Canon 1Ds/1DII - Subal CD1 Dual - Subal + Canon 550ex - Inon Z-220
  8. Ok, I know echeng can probably shed some light on this (pun intended). I just got my Subal CD1 Dual and 550 strobecase for UW use of a TTL land strobe. My second strobe is a Inon Z-220. I haven't even gotten wet yet, and I'm having some unintended effects. 1: Out of the box, focus light doesn't work on the Inon -- I think I need a 5-pin Nikonos bulkhead (instead of 3-pin) and a circuit board modification (100kOhm resistor between SP and Ready on the Nik pinout). But will that kill my TTL on the 550? Or kill the 550 altogether? Which pins are those on the Subal board anyway? 2: Since I'll be running TTL on the left and slave on the right, how do I get my exposure to work? Strangely, if I put the 550 on E-TTL and the Inon on Optically triggered TTL, the Inon goes full blast (albeit close to correct exposure) and I get very little light from the 550. 3: Manual control is weird. At air distances over 5 feet, things behave as I would expect. At macro distances, with the Inon (corded) set to -5 minimum power and the 550 set to E-TTL, I get bleached overexposed crap. With the Inon (optical slave) set to TTL and the 550 set to E-TTL, I get underexposed crap. What the heck am I doing wrong? Any suggestions or thoughts in general about combining a manual and TTL strobe in a single exposure would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all! -Erik Moon Canon 1Ds/1DII - Subal CD1 Dual - Subal + Canon 550ex - Inon Z-220
  9. Hi Mermaid- Ok, here is an example of the vignetted image -- you can see the inside of the port on the left and right sides. Here is the same image after the "Fisheye" correction option is selected in Nikon Capture 4. Of course, the images are resized here. You can't see how much sharpness is lost in the corners, but that is a problem with using the Fisheye Correction option in Capture 4. The geometry is corrected, but you end up losing a lot of detail in the corners. Not always a problem, especially with these big blue backgrounds. Hope this helps. -Erik
  10. Hi Mermaid- I shot the 10.5 in a L&M dome on my last trip. It mildly vignettes -- you can actually see the inside of the port (black aluminum, not glass) in the corners. I can look for a sample image to show you how it looks. If you use the fisheye correction in Nikon Capture, the vignettes are all outside the frame, so this isn't a bad way to go... I'll get samples up for you later today. -Erik
  11. Hi GRT- In the classified section, I have a L&M Titan D100 listed for sale. It includes the zoom ring for the 17-35, the wide angle dome port and the macro port in case you ever decide to do that too. Just a thought... -Mooner PS: I really liked the 17-35 underwater, but also decided to get a fisheye. I bought the 10.5, but it clips the corners a little in the relatively small L&M 8" dome. 16 fisheye might have been a better choice for super-wide.
  12. Ya, both the Seacam and Sea&Sea look good to me. Has anyone seen the Subal in person? It seems to be a good bit cheaper. Also, the Subal TTL strobe cans are intriguing. Anybody try those yet? Eric -- what are you doing for strobe control??
  13. Hi All- Ok, after seeing a couple 1Ds' in Fiji last month, I'm transitioning out of my D100 into a 1Ds. I'm trying to decide which housing to adopt -- right now it is between Seacam and Sea&Sea. Aside from cost, what are the real-world issues I will encounter with those 2 systems?? If anyone wants to buy my Titan, it's in the classified section... Thanks! -Erik
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