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TimG

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TimG last won the day on December 12 2015

TimG had the most liked content!

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About TimG

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.timsimages.uk
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Depending on the day of the week, either Bamako (Mali), Poynton (UK) or Amsterdam (NL)
  • Interests
    Sunlight reefs, warm seas, good food and fine wine. And Manchester City Football Club.

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D500, Nikkors 105 and 8-15, Tokina 10-17mm
  • Camera Housing
    Subal ND500
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z240
  • Accessories
    ULCS

Recent Profile Visitors

77686 profile views
  1. I’m not sure I’d go with 2x 5” arms on each side, if I read that correctly. It seems a little limiting and perhaps better to go with 1x5” and 1x 8” on each side. But maybe I’m missing something about the Sony system.
  2. Picking up on Wolfgang's point, the arms, clamps etc are one of the areas where I think it is worth spending a bit extra to get high quality. These are some of the few bits of u/w photo gear that you are unlikely to want to change. Once you have good stuff, you tend to stick with it - and they last many, many years. My ULCS are heading to 20 years old. It's very much a case of: buy cheap, buy twice. Get good ones from the outset and you won't regret it.
  3. Dann-oh Can you just list your plan in the post?
  4. Hi Scotzh Yep, the DGX version works with the Tokina 10-17 and the D500. I usually use f8 or maybe f11. Sorry, can’t help on a Sea&sea zoom ring. You need one that that fits the circumference of the 10-17 but is 20mm longer.
  5. I hope you guys can make it happen!
  6. Will the size of the Z50 really make that much difference? Maybe if you can use the maybe more compact Z series lenses. Otherwise you still have DX-sized lenses and domeports etc. I'm not sure that will add up, in total, to an easier travelling package than the current, say, D500 system. It'd only be the camera body that would be slightly smaller and its housing. Sadly.
  7. Check out ULCS for the tray and arms. You can't got wrong with their stuff. Strobes: Inon S2000 or Z330. We all love them!
  8. There's someone on WP asking about Sony A7RII housings. Worth a quick search.....
  9. I'm with you: longest closest to the housing, shortest closest to the strobe. I've done this since Day 1. I have no idea why, but it works and I have never felt the need to change it. Personal preferences....
  10. Hi There certainly is: Sony and Ikelite both make one. Maybe Nauticam too?
  11. Wise words, Craig. Wise words Some years ago I moved from the 8" Subal DP-FE dome to the 230mm. One inch bigger? No big deal, I thought. Ha! I had one of the biggest shocks of my life when I unpacked the box (crate?) when the 230 arrived. I've seen smaller fish tanks. A 230 dome could define the opposite of Compact for Travel.
  12. Yeah, tricky, Howard. I've always thought one of the issues of being a serious u/w photographer is having a buddy to dive with! Someone who is either talking their own pics - or is prepared to hover close-by whilst you sit for ages (I'm sure it seems to the buddy) snapping away. As you say, on a dive trip, maybe with a DM, with people you barely know, it's difficult. Maybe you could discuss this with the DM and see if he can buddy you up with someone who wants to do something similar to you. Or the DM can stop at places where you indicate you have seen something - and then show the other divers something close by. But yeah, when its one of those all-swimming-along-in-a-line dives..... oy! After that, get a bespoke buddy. I'm delighted to say mine is fabulous. And comes in VERY handy as an u/w model for those reef shots In some ways I'm not surprised that you were a bit disappointed that the pics with the additional gear were not what you were hoping for. You added a faire degree of complexity and having got used to the vanilla flavour, moving to strawberry takes a little time to get used to. You might want to have a look at one of the excellent books - if you've not already - on u/w photog and working with strobes: Martin Edge's book - or that of our very own Alex Mustard.
  13. True, but it's rare anything goes wrong with a housing that a small screw driver can't fix for, eg, a small adjustment to how an internal lever activates a camera button. Although once you have that sorted out early in ownership it very rarely needs changing.
  14. Hey Scotzh I spent a year working in Lembeh and did 400+ dives there with my Subal D300 housing. When I sold it on the housing must have done close to 800+ dives. There was never a problem - and I never had it serviced. As Chris says, unless there is something quirky about Sea&Sea housings, I don't think you need to service them very often. A good rinse after every dive and work the buttons whilst in the rinse tank - and don't leave it unwatched there!
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