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TimG last won the day on December 12 2015

TimG had the most liked content!

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62 Excellent

About TimG

  • Rank
    Humpback Whale

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Poynton (UK) or Amsterdam (NL)
  • Interests
    Sunlight reefs, warm seas, good food and fine wine. And Manchester City Football Club.

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D500, Nikkors 105 and 8-15, Tokina 10-17mm
  • Camera Housing
    Subal ND500
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z240
  • Accessories

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  1. Forgive me if I’m teaching granny to suck eggs, I’d just make the point (maybe for a wider audience) that adding silicone to the o-ring doesn’t help make a good seal. O-ring lubricant helps the flexibility of the o-ring which should reduce twisting when, eg, tightening or fitting, say, a battery cover or housing back. It has no sealing effect.
  2. That looks pretty neat! I had an earlier V5 model that wasn't the XB and doesn't have the little jumper connectors. That looks like a nice iteration.
  3. Fantastic! Many thanks indeed for all the hard work that’s gone into this. A really useful collection.
  4. Totally agree with all of this - in fact, it's these points made by Adam himself that persuaded me about 18 months or so ago to go with the D500 rather than D850. (Z6/Z7 were not then available but the arguments still hold)
  5. On the D500 v Z6 image quality comparison, I think you'd have to be a real pixel peeper or want to blow up your images to a very large scale before you can see a discernible difference. I sell a fair few images and have never seen any variation in terms of sales or image acceptance by agencies between DX and FX. As to whether there is a more compact solution, if you want to go DLSR route, there's isn't one that I know of. But then being a Nikon dinosaur there might be things out there that I'm not aware of. I'm sure other will chip-in. Yep, you can indeed, in theory, do more things with the shallower depth of field of FX. Generally however this is not something used generally underwater - unlike topside - and you can achieve the same effect easily with DX. My experience has been that you tend only to use shallow depth of field occasionally with macro and there is no problem at all achieving that with DX or any other system! Totally agree that it's worth narrowing your search down and then, if at all possible, getting your hands on the systems - especially with a housing.
  6. LOL, yeah, it's not easy for sure. I actually use a D500 and really like it. I moved back to the DX of the D500 from the FX of the D800 and instead of going to the D850. In terms of size and weight, I doubt that a D500-based system would be that much bigger or weigh significantly more than a Nikon Z-based system - certainly if you are using F-mount lenses. Wide-angle with the DX is easier to manage with far smaller (and cheaper) dome ports than the Z series will need; and there is better depth of field for macro with DX. As you rightly point out too, there is for the moment a limited selection of Z lenses and none which are good for underwater. I'd suggest for the time being you'd be better with the F mount system if you're looking at Nikon. For macro either a 60mm or 105mm,
  7. Hi Marc I'm sure you will get lots of advice and thoughts on the question you pose. I won't make any suggestions on particular cameras but I would offer one or two general thoughts. Underwater photography is, sadly, a pretty expensive hobby and one that never fails to suck money out of a bank account. All the elements of the equipment are pricey and, scarily, one of the cheaper parts tends to be the camera body. So if you are looking to produce crisp, professional images and be able to do macro, super-macro etc, that comes at quite a hefty price. You'll need a housing, strobes, ports, specialist lenses and diopters, strobe arms etc etc. I'm honestly not trying to dampen your excellent enthusiasm, just flagging up expectation management. A system that will achieve what you are looking is likely to cost more than a new Z6 camera body. That said, once you have a clearer idea of the equipment you'd prefer, it'd definitely be worth checking out the Classified adverts on Wetpixel. Many elements of u/w camera equipment drop in value very rapidly and you can sometimes pick-up second hand items at 30%-40% of their initial retail value - especially if you are happy to go with a generation or two older model. So for example, a few people are selling Nikon D800 systems (camera body and housing) at the moment as they move to D850s. Some of the prices are really good and even though a D800 is a few years old, they can certainly produce superb images. For the system to grow with you, it is worth "investing" in a few good quality items which, generally, hold their value and age better than others. These tend to be strobes and strobe arms. Take a look, for example, at the now discontinued Inon Z240 strobe and ULCS arm systems. Both very popular, last for ages (my ULCS system is almost 20 years old) and "grow" with you. By contrast camera bodies and housings age quite quickly and many folks will change them every 3-4 years. Good luck with the hunt.
  8. What a pain! You could try filling the housing with some soft paper, perhaps kitchen roll, and taking it for a test in a swimming pool. When you think there might be a leak, get out and the paper, assuming it’s wet, might give you a better idea on the leak location. Then, as bill suggests, maybe a self repair - or back to the manufacturers.
  9. Hey Laura As Robin says, I've posted a few times on this issue. Curious that you are having problems with the Tokina and the D500.. I found that the Kenko 1.4 TC Pro300 DG version worked fine with the Tokina 10-17 on a D500 but would not work with the Nikkor 8-15. Asking around, various wise owls told me that the DG version doesn't work with a number of lenses but the DGX does. I bought the DGX and that seems fine with all the lenses I have tried: Tokina 10-17, Nikkor 8-15, 105, 300 and 200-500. I emailed Kenko too but never got a reply. Their website lists the lenses that the DGX works with - the 8-15 is not one of them. You might try cleaning the contacts on the Kenko. But it could be that the DG version is just not happy with various newer Nikon camera bodies and can be temperamental. The DGX should solve the problem.
  10. Hey Giuseppe It's hard to give a definitive answer to this. To an extent it depends on what additional buoyancy you use and the angles of the strobe arms (assuming that's where the additional buoyancy is located). Domeports can have a tendency to twist upwards. But it isn't a given. Weight of the lens and the air space around it are other factors. I'd suggest trying it all out before buying additional domeport weights. It could be that the problem is negligible or no-existent.
  11. I don't think whether it's temperate or tropical would make that much difference. The idea of the diffuser is to spread and soften the light. I think it's choice whether you want that effect (generally you do) or not.
  12. Yep, I agree, the Pedersen are way easier to photograph! Cool on the UPM - that was perfect timing.
  13. Some nice images there, Phil. I like the way you've been able to isolate a lot of the critters against the blue or using a black background. Some nice octopus pics too. The images of the spotted cleaner shrimp are, maybe, the weaker ones. They shrimp gets lost a bit in the anemone - but, hey, counsels of perfection. I know how difficult those things are to get out of the anemone, without the anemone tentacles in the way, without the current moving them, with the shrimp facing the right way etc etc.... maybe worth a go (next time?!) angling the strobes right in - so not lighting the breadth of the anemone. Or maybe above? Or using a snoot (there's a whole world of frustration - but very effective)? If you can get hold of Alex Mustard's book Underwater Photography Masterclass, Alex suggests some good techniques. A lovely set of pics which portray underwater Bonaire really well!
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