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TimG last won the day on December 12 2015

TimG had the most liked content!

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About TimG

  • Rank
    Humpback Whale

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Depending on the day of the week, either Bamako (Mali), Poynton (UK) or Amsterdam (NL)
  • Interests
    Sunlight reefs, warm seas, good food and fine wine. And Manchester City Football Club.

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D500, Nikkors 105 and 8-15, Tokina 10-17mm
  • Camera Housing
    Subal ND500
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z240
  • Accessories

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78163 profile views
  1. The colour and shapes of a crinoid feather star Rimax Point dive site, Lembeh Straits Staying (and working) at Kungkungan Bay Resort Nikon D300 and 105mm lens. 1/100 at f22 ISO 200 with a couple of Inon Z240 strobes
  2. Location: St John's Caves, southern Red Sea, Egypt - superb area of the Red Sea. A playground for divers of tunnels and swim throughs Dive operator: Emperor Divers liveaboard (MV Emperor Elite - highly recommended) out of Marsa Alam Equipment: Nikon D800, Sigma 15mm FE lens and 2x Inon Z240 strobes
  3. Some lovely pics: especially the ribbon eel and rhinopias. The nautilus too. Nice work!
  4. Love that last image phxazcraig! Almost cartoonish.
  5. Hey Oskar I've moved this to the Classifieds. Not a problem. Good luck with your hunt Tim
  6. That's quite a difficult question to answer given the huge variety. Everything from day boats heading to very busy dive sites in the northern Red Sea (RS) out of towns like Sharm el-Sheikh, Hurghada and Dahab; to liveaboards heading into the north or down south into areas approaching the Sudanese border. The latter visit dives sites significantly less busy. Each of the towns have many dive operators varying from the very good to the slightly dubious. Lots of Wetpixelers - especially the European ones - can give you lots of recommendations as the RS is generally about a 5-6 hour flight from Europe and provides some of the best warm (depending on the season) water diving in this part of the world. There is huge variety in terms of price too. From budget backpack to, say, 4-star. The actual variety of diving tends to concentrate on walls and pinnacles and could generally be classed as wide-angle photo diving. Encounters with paelagics are not unusual, lots of hard and colourful soft coral. There is lots of high-quality wreck diving in the northern area. Some of them are iconic: The Thistlegorm for example - a WW2 freighter that was bombed and sank with tons of military cargo which can still be seen. It's one of those dives which European divers will discuss endlessly over a beer..... Like many on WP, I've bene there many times and always have a greta time. The liveaboards I have always found excellent (check out Emperor Divers as an example). Good accommodation, usually very good food. 4 dives a day, usually very agreeable fellow guests - and, generally, at a very good price. What's there not to like? I hope that helps a little. If you would like more info, maybe narrow the question down a bit! But I am sure there are going to be lots of contributions to this post.
  7. Hi Scotty I'm assuming you're talking about how to make your setup approximately neutrally buoyant? If so, you can find a good few posts about using dipping your setup in water whilst dangling on a luggage weighing gizmo. This is an issue that has been discussed many times. You need somethign like this: https://www.amazon.com/Travelon-Grip-Compact-Scale-Silver/dp/B00C75KUK6?ref_=s9_apbd_otopr_hd_bw_b2hesZX&pf_rd_r=60D7BFX78PAQV9MVGB6F&pf_rd_p=1b0ec8fb-c3d3-56d4-8d54-8048cc72bd76&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-12&pf_rd_t=BROWSE&pf_rd_i=2477391011 Once you know-how much the setup weighs in water, you can add some form of bouyancy to bring it up to, I'd suggest, just slightly negatively buoyant. The foam that you can add to arms, such as Stix (which is what I use) is cheap, flexible, long-lasting and easy to add and subtract. Float arms might look nicer, are much more expensive, and not quite so flexible in terms of adding or subtracting buoyancy. But the key, as I say, is to weigh your setup in water so that you know the actual underwater negative buoyancy value. And, yes, if you change any part of the setup then the underwater weight changes and you might need to change the amount of buoyancy you use.
  8. Sure, Spitfire. Yeah, you would not be able to edit the list in your first post. Most folks just do an update and say this has been sold, or that priced has been reduced etc.
  9. Hi Spitfire You can edit the latest post you make my clicking the Edit word on the line below your post which says Quote Edit Options Otherwise just add another post with an update. Best wishes Tim
  10. Hi Mehmet So... back to your original question. I'm using a D500 which is not so different to the D850 in terms of focus. On moving macro, I still use AF-S (or if really fast moving AF-C) but set a single focus point close to the intersection of rule-of-thirds lines - usual using the top left one. I then move the camera to follow the subject and as the eye of a subject crosses the intersection point, I release the shutter. You need to be far enough back to get however much of the body of the subject you want into the image space - of course. All this sounds like what you have done. Works for me
  11. Thanks! Yep, snooting is not the easiest of arts for sure! But you can certainly get some spectacular images.
  12. Bermaglot, how do you find the Retra aiming light (the pilot light) when using the LSD? Did you find the strobe light the area illuminated by the pilot light reasonably accurately? Having to use a high power strobe setting seemed the norm to me when using the LSD with my old Inon Z240s
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