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TimG last won the day on December 12 2015

TimG had the most liked content!

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62 Excellent

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About TimG

  • Rank
    Humpback Whale

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Depending on the day of the week, either Sint Maarten or Bamako (Mali)
  • Interests
    Sunlight reefs, warm seas, good food and fine wine. And Manchester City Football Club.

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D500, Nikkors 105 and 8-15, Tokina 10-17mm
  • Camera Housing
    Subal ND500
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Retra Prime
  • Accessories

Recent Profile Visitors

78987 profile views
  1. I'm not sure the bulkier front end of the 16-35 will fit through a type 3 opening on the 230 domeport. That bit won't be affected by a type 3/4 adaptor. The narrower lens mount end will fit though a Type 3 opening but that's not an issue on a Type 4 housing. It'll be the size of the opening on the Type 3 domeport which will be the potential problem. If you can get the maximum diameter of the 16-35 and compare it with the Type 3 diameter, that will give you the answer.
  2. Agreed! If the Retra Pro seems too pricey, check out the Retra Prime. I've been using those for the last few months. Slightly less powerful (not that it has been a problem at all) and slightly cheaper than the Pros. Has HSS (as I set out in another post), TTL etc. They are truly pieces of design art - the Jony Ive of the underwater business. And Retra make snoots, various other macro light shapers.... all of which click beautifully into place.
  3. Just to add to Pavel's comment, HSS also works on the Retra Prime as well as the Retra Pro Pavel refers to. I'm using HSS on the Retra Prime (its a slightly less powerful - and slightly cheaper - version of the Pro). It's a tremendous option to be able to use. I really like it for being able to fill flash a backlight piece of reef or coral whilst shooting into the sun. Sync shutter speeds of 1/1000 no problem with a DSLR - in my case a Nikon D500.
  4. Hey micagius Sorry, I can't send you examples of 16-35 edges at the moment as I'm travelling for the next 10 days and don't have access to my images. But just search on WP for "soft edges" or some such and you'll find loads. It's an issue that is discussed often. As I explained, it's not a problem if you have blue water edges. But if you have reef, people or fish away from the centre (hardly unusual), it's pretty horrible, pretty quickly. It sure isn't D850 quality. If you don't want to go to a 9" port with the necessary EXR, zoom ring and, possibly, in addition the S&S, my advice would be to go with the Sigma 15mm. It's not expensive (as these things go!) and doesn't need port extensions or zoom rings so the whole package is relatively inexpensive. If you find it doesn't work for you, you could always then think about the 16-35 option which would require all the additional bits and bobs - and you could sell on the Sigma through the Classifieds. They sell quite well.
  5. Most welcome, Mike Inons are a very good option. I used them for around 15 years (until switching to the superb Retras) and never had an issue. For sure start with one strobe, see how you get on and move to second when you are ready. Ideally though you want the second strobe to be the same make/model as the first so if you are gong second hand, bear in mind time frames for availability. Say for example you went for a second hand Z240, that model is now discontinued and it's hard to say for how long you'd be able to pick up another one. Although they have been very popular. If your budget allowed, you could always buy a new Z330 (the successor to the Z240 and relatively new) and then wait to get a second. Check out UCLS for arms etc. Unbeatable quality and longevity. Mine are over 20 years old and good as new. Combined with "Stix" floats, I think they are a great combination. UCLS arms and components often appear in the Classifieds.
  6. Totally agree with what Chris has to say. My experience with an 8" dome using a 16-35 mm lens on a D800 was pretty awful. The edges were not a pretty sight. It works if the edges of the image contain, say, nothing but blue water - which can be ok for big fish pictures. But if you have elements of a reef included, it just does not look good. You really have to have a 9" dome with a rectilinear lens and a full-frame sensor and even then results aren't always great - hence Chris suggesting the S&S correction lens. If costs and dome size are important, I'd suggest looking at a fisheye. As Chris says, these are far less demanding and an 8" dome is fine. And they work well for over/unders. I pretty much gave up on the 16-35 and went for a Sigma 15mm which, for many full frame users, is the go-to fisheye lens. I found the combination excellent for divers-on-the-reef shots and for reef scenes generally. One image that you need to handle more carefully with a fisheye is wreck shots. The linear distortions a fisheye can create maybe not what you want in the image. But then they also provide opportunities too! With a D850 you have a top of the range camera body. It seems a shame to lose the quality that it can produce by compromising on the lens/port combination.
  7. Hi IrishMike Welcome aboard! It might be worth a search on WP on the YS strobes. I think you'll find some mixed views. I'd suggest strobes, and their associated arms, are one of the few bits of an underwater system which can grow and stay with you if you switch systems. Housings, camera bodies are at the opposite end! So it's worth putting a bit of time, thought and planning into strobes purchases. You'll see on WP posts that lots of users have Inons (especially the Z240) which have proved very popular and reliable and appear as secondhands in the Classifieds from time to time. The new Retras (Prime and Pro) are also becoming popular items - but are more expensive and hard to find secondhand.
  8. Hours of sheer joy ahead of you, Stuart Do let us know how you get on.
  9. Like davehicks, I always use optical. I set the snoot up so its on my left hand and adjust the position whilst looking through the viewfinder (on a Nikon D500) and use my right hand to fire the shutter. Chances are (most of the time!) if you can see the strobe aiming light in the viewfinder, the snoot is in the right place! Most of the time. It takes a little bit of getting used too but really isn't that difficult. Just don't have the snoot strobe clamped down too tightly.
  10. Yep, I use a 20mm EXR when using a Kenko 1.4TC. Works fine.
  11. Triggering problem solved right there! Check out the Retras or Inon Z330......
  12. I'm with Chris. 5 housings, 20+ years and I've never had a housing, strobe or port o-ring problem (says he looking around for wood to touch)
  13. No, Adam feels that just being a Moderator is sufficient fame and glory for any of us
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