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TimG

Moderator
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TimG last won the day on December 12 2015

TimG had the most liked content!

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About TimG

  • Rank
    Humpback Whale

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.timsimages.uk
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Poynton (UK) or Amsterdam (NL)
  • Interests
    Sunlight reefs, warm seas, good food and fine wine. And Manchester City Football Club.

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D500, Nikkors 105 and 8-15, Tokina 10-17mm
  • Camera Housing
    Subal ND500
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z240
  • Accessories
    ULCS

Recent Profile Visitors

77475 profile views
  1. On the 13" or 15" issue, are you doing final edits on the machine? Or is this a quick edit whilst on a trip and then flick it onto a big desktop when you get home? If it's the quick edit, I'd suggest that a 13" screen is enough. I've been using a 13" MacBook Pro for years for travel editing (plus a whole year of working in the Lembeh Straits) and then transfer things to my iMac when I'm home. I've found 13" fine for deciding whether a pic is worth keeping or not and checking if there are any kinds of housing/equipment/lens issues going on that I can't see on the camera LCD etc. Even a simple edit is doable. The advantage of 13" is portability. The difference between 13" and 15" doesn't sound much, but given the amount of gear we lug around, the extra weight and volume of a bigger laptop would be, I'd suggest, significant. One USB port? Buy a plug-in hub. On the other specs, my experience has been that an off-the-shelf MacBook Pro with 8GB of RAM and a 256GB SSD will run PS and LR just fine for short trips.
  2. Ok thanks, got it now: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1otS2RTR47KhaFdBkO6Gd7DDju3CQLEnTT2Wwetay4vE/edit#gid=0 I thought the link was the the wp.com/forums one in your post. That works but leads to a link to Underwater Strobe Finder which doesn't work
  3. I often leave my system pressurised overnight and have never had a problem. I usually prep it, like you, the night before, check I've got a green light after, say, 20 mins and then.... err forget to turn the valve off. So it's on overnight. As for upgrading, the valve has improved over the years. V3 to V4 was a very simple exchange of the small electronic board which I bought from Vivid. Really easy to do. Moving from the v4 to v5 was quite a change as the design is different - better - and the v5 has a number of advantages, I thought, over the v4. I sold my V4 to a WP member who, as far as I know, is happy. As I have changed camera housing I have moved the Vivid to the new housing: D800 to D500. It's really easy to install.
  4. Hi rwe Congrats on the new gear. I hope you have lots of fun with it. On the buoyancy issue, if you search in WP, if you've not done already, you'll find quite a few helpful guides to weighing your gear using a luggage scale in-water (the gear that is, not the scale - you dangle it on a line). The weight the scale shows is the negative buoyancy weight you need to offset using your choice of additional buoyancy, eg Stix floats, buoyancy arms, whatever.
  5. Add another vote to that. Pavel, you are just terrific. Don't go away. We need you!
  6. I agree with what John says about the Leak Sentinel. I've been using the Leak Sentinel for some years and have gone through versions 3, 4 and 5. It's easy to use, the battery life is excellent and, as I've written a number of times in various posts, to me having one is a no-brainer. As John says, Miso is really helpful and if you ever have a problem, he's very approachable and quick to respond. On your initial question about M14 or M16, I'm not sure that it makes any real difference which you use - it depends on personal preferences and where on the housing you would find it easiest to see yet not be in the way. You can get Leak Sentinel adaptors for either. It is helpful to be able install the valve where you can see the blinking light easily although in brighter, shallower water it isn't always that easy to see the green light - whereas, I've found, the red (trouble!) light does show up better. I find the v5 slightly better to see the light than the v4 because of the positioning of the warning LEDs on the Sentinel structure. The V5 LEDs are on the top of the valve whereas they are on the side of the V4. But then, doubtless, there will be folks who find it easier to read when on the side - it all depends where you install the valve on the housing.
  7. A fair question! What strobes are you using? People are reporting quite a difference in the FO cables needed depending on the strobe. For example Inons seem to be able to deal with a less intense FO output than that of Sea&Sea. And the "pull out" issue seems to happen to some and not to others but is relatively straight-forward to resolve with all sorts of tricks and tips - although I'm slightly wary of not having a way that an FO cable can detach if put under too much strain. I don't want one snapping. With my Inon Z240 I was able to make FO cables using cheap Toslink cable I bought from Amazon and L-adaptors (see example in the link): http://www.divervision.com/howshot-fiber-adapter-set-for-nauticam-housings-FA-NAL.html?search=howshot&page=3 Totally cost was probably around $20 for each cable and it was easy to do.
  8. Blaise I've had a response from Grays, the specialist Nikon dealer in the UK. They think it's worth giving Nikon UK a call on +44 208 541 4440. They also suggested Sendean Camera Repairs who are based in London and do all sorts of film camera repairs. https://www.sendeancameras.co.uk Maybe worth a try. Cheers Tim
  9. Some very stylish pics there, Blaise. I like the desaturated - almost blue toned effect. I did find it difficult to house a wide-angle lens with the D800. I started with the Nikkor 16-35 but had to use a 230 domeport to get good corners. I also found the Sigma 15mm very good and was really happy with the results.
  10. Oh wow! That is good news, Blaise - thanks for letting me know. Fingers crossed!
  11. LOL Well I guess if you're going to use a Rolleimarin next it might indeed be a while before you go digital... Fingers crossed though that something comes up. I'll let you know if Grays come up with something.
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