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TimG

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TimG last won the day on December 12 2015

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About TimG

  • Rank
    Humpback Whale

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  • Website URL
    http://www.timsimages.uk
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Poynton (UK) or Amsterdam (NL)
  • Interests
    Sunlight reefs, warm seas, good food and fine wine. And Manchester City Football Club.

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D500, Nikkors 105 and 8-15, Tokina 10-17mm
  • Camera Housing
    Subal ND500
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z240
  • Accessories
    ULCS

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  1. I'll leave Chris and Massimo to respond to that one. I've no experience of the 12-50.
  2. On Nikon FX sensor cameras I found that I pretty much ditched the rectilinear and stuck with a fisheye. The fisheye is much easier in terms of a port: cheaper, lighter, more travel-friendly, less to lug. And for the type of pics I want, divers on reefs/wrecks, the FE is perfect. Where it not is not so good is for photographing larger critters who won't let you get close, eg sharks and dolphins.
  3. Sounds a great trip, Louise. With your D850 I'd certainly join Algwyn in recommending a 105 for macro in Lembeh. It's ideal for the pygmy seahorses and most of the mini-critters - of which there are loads. There are a couple of dives where the 8-15 would be good: Nudis Falls and Angel's Window (known as the BFR - the Big Fat Rock). I don't think the 16-35 would be useful in Lembeh.
  4. Amen to that! The extra charges can be huge.
  5. Really hard to say, Diggy. Can you compare the specs? My experience is that LR will run fine on 8GB RAM - (I've got more than 45,000 images in my catalogue and they're almost all FX sized RAW files). Storage: you need about either 250GB of disk space- for the software and to allow image storage (or, a bit slower, an external hard disk for storage) during, say, a 2-week dive trip. I have honestly no clue on chip speeds. I never buy the fastest ones and have never noticed any of the four iMac/MacBookPros (MBPs) I've ever had choking on LR/PS. If your workhorse is still jumping the necessary hurdles, then you're in business anyway. Seems to me that MBPs are almost like diesel engine cars: they just keep going and going! Depending on the year model, you could if necessary always add more RAM (there are a couple of model years where you can't) or a bigger SSD/hard drive. It's easy to do. Why not though install LR on the Air, go out for a weekend of topside shooting, import the files onto the Air, edit a bit and see what happens. If it works well you can make your daughter an offer she can't possibly refuse and bingo you have a very nice (newish) machine. But if it's not a Happy Mac, you've got the Workhorse. What's there not to like, eh? I'm not sure if you can add RAM to an Air or not. It could be that the RAM is soldered in (unlike most MBPs). A quick look on the Apple Support website will tell you - as, I think, if you go into the About This Mac icon/tab in the OS - it'll show how much RAM you have and if there is the potential to increase it. I don't think you can upgrade the disk on an Air - but am not sure. Lots of options!
  6. On the 13" or 15" issue, are you doing final edits on the machine? Or is this a quick edit whilst on a trip and then flick it onto a big desktop when you get home? If it's the quick edit, I'd suggest that a 13" screen is enough. I've been using a 13" MacBook Pro for years for travel editing (plus a whole year of working in the Lembeh Straits) and then transfer things to my iMac when I'm home. I've found 13" fine for deciding whether a pic is worth keeping or not and checking if there are any kinds of housing/equipment/lens issues going on that I can't see on the camera LCD etc. Even a simple edit is doable. The advantage of 13" is portability. The difference between 13" and 15" doesn't sound much, but given the amount of gear we lug around, the extra weight and volume of a bigger laptop would be, I'd suggest, significant. One USB port? Buy a plug-in hub. On the other specs, my experience has been that an off-the-shelf MacBook Pro with 8GB of RAM and a 256GB SSD will run PS and LR just fine for short trips.
  7. Ok thanks, got it now: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1otS2RTR47KhaFdBkO6Gd7DDju3CQLEnTT2Wwetay4vE/edit#gid=0 I thought the link was the the wp.com/forums one in your post. That works but leads to a link to Underwater Strobe Finder which doesn't work
  8. What was it before it changed, Chris?
  9. I often leave my system pressurised overnight and have never had a problem. I usually prep it, like you, the night before, check I've got a green light after, say, 20 mins and then.... err forget to turn the valve off. So it's on overnight. As for upgrading, the valve has improved over the years. V3 to V4 was a very simple exchange of the small electronic board which I bought from Vivid. Really easy to do. Moving from the v4 to v5 was quite a change as the design is different - better - and the v5 has a number of advantages, I thought, over the v4. I sold my V4 to a WP member who, as far as I know, is happy. As I have changed camera housing I have moved the Vivid to the new housing: D800 to D500. It's really easy to install.
  10. Hi rwe Congrats on the new gear. I hope you have lots of fun with it. On the buoyancy issue, if you search in WP, if you've not done already, you'll find quite a few helpful guides to weighing your gear using a luggage scale in-water (the gear that is, not the scale - you dangle it on a line). The weight the scale shows is the negative buoyancy weight you need to offset using your choice of additional buoyancy, eg Stix floats, buoyancy arms, whatever.
  11. Add another vote to that. Pavel, you are just terrific. Don't go away. We need you!
  12. I agree with what John says about the Leak Sentinel. I've been using the Leak Sentinel for some years and have gone through versions 3, 4 and 5. It's easy to use, the battery life is excellent and, as I've written a number of times in various posts, to me having one is a no-brainer. As John says, Miso is really helpful and if you ever have a problem, he's very approachable and quick to respond. On your initial question about M14 or M16, I'm not sure that it makes any real difference which you use - it depends on personal preferences and where on the housing you would find it easiest to see yet not be in the way. You can get Leak Sentinel adaptors for either. It is helpful to be able install the valve where you can see the blinking light easily although in brighter, shallower water it isn't always that easy to see the green light - whereas, I've found, the red (trouble!) light does show up better. I find the v5 slightly better to see the light than the v4 because of the positioning of the warning LEDs on the Sentinel structure. The V5 LEDs are on the top of the valve whereas they are on the side of the V4. But then, doubtless, there will be folks who find it easier to read when on the side - it all depends where you install the valve on the housing.
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