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TimG

Moderator
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TimG last won the day on December 12 2015

TimG had the most liked content!

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About TimG

  • Rank
    Blue Whale

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.timsimages.uk
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    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sint Maarten, Dutch Caribbean
  • Interests
    Sunlight reefs, warm seas, good food and fine wine. And Manchester City Football Club.

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D500, Nikkors 105mm, 60mm and 8-15mm, Tokina 10-17mm
  • Camera Housing
    Subal ND500
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Retra Prime and Pro
  • Accessories
    ULCS

Recent Profile Visitors

80240 profile views
  1. Wow, sounds kinda scary! I understand the science and I'm sure it works. But.... GULP.
  2. Hey Simon - you don't need to. It stays here forever........ Congrats on the sale.
  3. Yeah, me too, Pete. I've still not got into the habit of pressing the shutter slightly to re-activate the camera as I bring it up to my eye.
  4. Hey Redbird In some way you are maybe trying to dive with apples and oranges. As you will see from a number of previous posts from my moderator colleague, Chris Ross, you need a good idea of what you want to do before you embark on choosing the camera and housing. If you are set on wide-angle underwater imagery, it comes down to, as you have established, two methods: either rectilinear wide-angle or fisheye. I wouldn't rule out fisheye too quickly. It's just not the same as using a fisheye topside and, for very many uses, it is the most practical wide-angle format especially for images of reefs or divers on the reef. Where it is maybe less useful is for shots of wrecks where perhaps straight lines are more important. But generally "the fish eye effect" is not noticeable on underwater images but it does allow you to get extremely close to the main part of the subject which is what, usually, you want. The less water between camera and subject the better. I'll attach a couple of images for you to see. The other good thing about fisheye is that it is easy to house whether using an FX (full-frame) sensor or DX (APS-C). You can use an 8" (180mm) dome or even a 4" (100mm) dome The other end of the wide-angle spectrum is the rectilinear. The standard lens for FX is something like a 16-35mm. But I know from personal experience, that these are the devil's own job to house.They require very large domes (at least 230mm/9") which are heavy, very expensive and bulky for travelling. An 8" dome will not cut it (and that extra inch is way more than it sounds). No chance with a 4" dome. You also need to stop the lens down to around f11 or smaller to allow the lens to focus well on the virtual image that the domeport creates and which you need to to be able to render in sharp focus. This then impacts on your lighting (see below) If you definitely want to go rectilinear, check out APS-C or m4/3 formats. Lenses that use this format are significantly easier and cheaper to house. I use a Nikon D500 with the Tokina 10-17mm lens and either a 4" or 8" dome. Works a treat and is compact (ish!), by underwater standards, inexpensive and travel-friendly. But if you are determined to go FX and rectilinear, figure on about $2000 for the domeport, plus about $200 for the extension ring and another $400 if you can get a Sea&Sea correction lens which seems to be the best way to get a 16-35 to focus properly. Lights: are fine for video, of course, but less than great for still photography. They just do not provide the punch to get the colours out. You really need decent strobes especially for wide-angle. Wide-angle and close-up shots: you'll see posts from folks trying all sorts of combinations to achieve this one lens-dive nirvana. I'm not sure it really works. Much better, I would suggest getting a decent macro lens (say a 60mm if you are going DX, 105mm for FX) plus your wide-angle and chose what you want to do for the dive. On the brand of housing: if you’re near a dealer, especially one as good as Backscatter, it makes good sense to go with products they support I’d suggest Subal and Nauticam are a cut above the others Hope this help a bit! two images shot with fisheye lenses (two divers is FX; wreck is DX)
  5. @Jacobguymedia selling one as well now. There's two people you could ask, JDII?
  6. @marktipple has one for sale with a Nauticam housing so may well be able to comment.
  7. Yeah, do. I'm sure you'll like the lens. It's an ideal combination with the D500.
  8. Yep, that's the one - the newer 60mm. They were certainly (almost) impossible to find a few months back. Rather than hunting around online, I'd suggest a visit to your local camera shop if you have one (are there any left in the UK?) and see if they have a lens gathering dust on a shelf.....
  9. Good call, sinetwo - especially compared to the big dome option. One thing you may come across, the Nikkor 60m has been very hard indeed to find recently. I bought mine around May time and couldn't find one in Europe, the US or the UK. I ended up finding one here in Sint Maarten (doh!). The shop had two of them and I was almost tempted to buy them both and stick one on eBay! (Thanks on the shark pic! Classic image here in Sint Maarten)
  10. Hey Wolfgang. I've had one version or another of the Sentinel for maybe 5-6 years starting with, I think the V2 - its now the V5. I've had to change the battery maybe twice. Since V4 it has been possible to switch the system off after setting the vacuum - and then switch it back on, eg, the next morning pre-diving. So the system is not left switched on overnight - so saving battery life. Hard to put a number of dives on it but I'd say 150 no problem. It's an easy to find battery and, with the XB version, very easy to change. It was slightly fiddlier with the V4 unit - but not that difficult.
  11. Hi sinetwo I'm using a 60mm on a D500 (and a 105 too). I've found this good for both macro (very good indeed) and for fish portraits. Can't compare it to the 17-70 though. But the D500 and the 60mm has, for me, been a great combination. Some examples:
  12. Hi ido Check out the Vivid Leak Sentinel. Lots of us on Wetpixel have been using one of the various models for some years and really trust them. The boss at Vivid, Miso, is really helpful and provides superb customer service. The link is here: https://www.vividhousings.com/leak-sentinel.php There is a version 5 too but I'm not sure why the website does't show it. If you google around you'll find lots of references to it. I've got the V5 "XB" version. I can heartily recommend it. In that version the electronics and battery are inside the housing rather than all contained in one unit like the V4.
  13. Hey Michael Congrats on the new gear. I can heartily recommend Inon Z240 (now second hand ) or Z330 or the Retra Prime and Pro. If you have the cash, go for the Retras! I had Inons for almost 20 years and rated them highly. I then bought Retra and find them superb in terms of quality of light, ability to manipulate the light with snoots, reflectors and masks - use rechargeable AAs and are easily portable. I rate them well above the Inons.
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