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Everything posted by TimG

  1. Wow, first time I've heard of using Coke. Interesting! It's the Real Thing, eh? I had the same problem once in Lembeh on a macro port. I tried everything I could get my hands on - other than Coke - but couldn't clean it. I ended up replacing the glass. I think someone on WP a good while ago also suggested the UK metal cleaning liquid, Brasso.
  2. Well it does compared to what I'm used to! I normally shoot TTL for macro. You can't do this with the LSD and I guess I didn't push enough power through the Z240 on the manual strobe settings. I found that I needed to use 1/2 power - even sometimes full power. I did get some great results eventually. But, man, dives and dives of pure frustration! I agree though, a good aiming light is crucial.
  3. Hi sinetwo If you've not done a search on snotting already in WP, it's definitely worth doing so. There's been a lot of discussion (including from me!) on snooting and aiming. Just when you thought u/w photography was tough ... you add shooting.... I use the Retra LSD with an Inon Z240. The Z240 has a button you can press to turn on (and lock-on if you wish) its focussing/aiming light. With the LSD in the correct position the aiming light will indeed point fairly accurately on the subject. Having said that, what took me an age (well, lots of dives and emails to Retra) to learn was the amount of light output absorbed by a snoot. So I was finding that I was aiming the LSD perfectly but the resulting image was black. I believed that the problem was the LSD aim. But it wasn't. It was that the image was dramatically underexposed because of the amount of light absorption by the LSD. I'm not sure of the exact amount but, say 3-4 stops. You may know this already - but it surprised me. I just thought the aim of the LSD was rubbish!
  4. The reason for asking about the camera and what device you are using to initiate the Anglerfish, was to see if perhaps the Anglerfish was not receiving what it requires to initiate and fire the strobe connected to it. Getting the Anglerfish to switch on (and off) is certainly a party trick - especially underwater. But once you are certain it is on, then the problem is likely to be either the cable between the Anglerfish and the remote strobe ; or a problem with what initiates the Anglerfish to fire, ie, your camera and its strobe. To switch on, are you getting lights in the order: impact - purple - impact - 2x Blue - 2x impact - purple?
  5. Matt You and Adam are not alone. Count me in too. I thought long and hard about moving from my D800 to the D850 but, after much thought - and arguments put forward by Adam, I went with the D500. Housing WA was the big decider for me. I liked the Nikkor 16-35 lens but lugging the 230 domeport and the 90mm EXR etc etc was just a pain. I'm very happy with the D500. All round less expensive, excellent macro (with the Nikkor 105), terrific WA with the Nikkor 8-15. And, if I'm truthful, I'd struggle to see any major IQ difference between that and FF. And the three of us are not alone either. There are other WPers who have gone that route - rather than FF.
  6. Brilliant! Really glad it worked well.
  7. Karyll, someone was advertising an LSD for sale here a few weeks back. Worth a search if you havn't already.
  8. I'm sure the IATA regulations do apply to all carriers. The issue I've always found is the management of regulations. I wouldn't bank on most of the people we have contact with in the airline/travel world having much more than hazy understanding of them. Liz (errbrr) makes good point about carrying a copy with you. Even then, there are lots of countries where I would not want to pull my copy of the regulations out of my pocket and say, "look here my good man/woman, IATA says....". You can almost hear the snap of the rubber glove.
  9. Hey Steve Curious. As Jerry says, the more recent LSDs have a silver tube. I'd suggest dropping Oskar an email at Retra and getting his advice. He's very helpful and responds quickly. Tim
  10. You could do worse than put a Want To Buy post in the Classifieds......
  11. There are a number of ways of dealing with the rinse tank issue. - Have your own in the shape of a big cool bag and fill it with water. - On a number of trips I've bought a plastic laundry basket and lined it with a black bin bag. Works a charm. - Ask the operator in advance if they can provide you with something you can rinse your camera in. - Ask for an extra dive gear box just for your camera
  12. I do wonder how many frontline security checking people are aware of the IATA guidelines..... and how much, at times, it comes down to negotiating politely.
  13. Interesting that uwphotography is so adamant about image stabilisation. I've been using Nikon camera bodies and various lenses (105VR and 16-35 both of which have stabilisation) over the last 15-16 years - all for stills - and honestly can't think that I have ever had the stabilisation turned on for underwater use - for either macro or wide-angle. I can't say I ever had a problem where camera shake was an issue. Stabilisation would be way down my list of priorities in underwater equipment.
  14. Hmmm, interesting. I've been going to Bonaire annually for the last 4-5 years after a gap of almost 10 years. That's one place where I actually think it's getting a bit better: some macro critters starting to reappear which I haven't seen for quite some time.
  15. Worth a try, normd. I'm sure someone will be interested - at the right price......
  16. Hey Claire What a bummer. Some years ago when I was running a resort in the Lembeh Straits, I needed to replace the front glass of a macro port. Luckily for me, one of the wizard techs from Reef Photo was staying at the resort and with a couple of very simple tools, he removed and replaced the glass inside 10 minutes. (I had bought a spare). It wasn't a complex task - installing an o-ring and then prising the lens into place. We had not means for pressure testing it but certainly did the first dive with no camera in the housing. Maybe an outside thought, but it could be worth flipping an email to Reef Photo - who are really helpful - and asking if they can give you a bit of guidance? Good luck with it. I really hope you can get it sorted.
  17. I used to shoot quite a lot of pics some years back of kids on a PADI Bubblemaker course. I used a D300 and the Tokina 10-17. Although I'd agree with Undertow on using a non-fisheye, I did find that using the Tokina did produce a good number of very useable and fun images underwater. Sure, some had weird perspectives but, perhaps inevitably, when photographing people, lots of the images were rubbish - and some were terrific. I also did a couple of model-type photoshoots in a pool and, again, used the 10-17 with good results. Yep, the 10-17 above the water, not so good. I think you are right though, relax and enjoy the party - stick your camera on multi-shot release and shoot away. The kids - and their parents - love the underwater shots. One final, rather depressing, thought though: I was photographing (and ran) the Bubblemaker course back in the 00s. Given all the issues now raised about working with kids, I'd be much more wary and make absolutely sure that parents were ok with it. Even taking pics of my grandkids (yeah, I'm that old) now in the park, I feel, sadly, a bit uncomfortable when there are other kids and parents around. All a bit sad really.
  18. Is this just Baha or does it apply across Mexico? Cozumel for example?
  19. Hi Manta88 if you go into your Account>Profile you can see all the posts you have made and perhaps can pick up the thread you want from there. The Account tab will also let you Manage Followed Content does that help?
  20. There are no dumb questions. It's the answers that are sometimes dumb.......
  21. Not macro! Maybe the occasional nudibranch. Not many sales of wreck photos. Nor "arty" pics. My best sales volume has come from a dolphin pod in clear water in the Red Sea (KLM amongst others are using it); and then well-posed single diver on a colourful reef. I did really well after one trip to the Red Sea - over 1000 sales from 129 images. Deep blue background, well-light colourful reef, single diver approaching with a torch. Occasionally wide-angle shots without a diver.
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