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Everything posted by TimG

  1. Hey Bryce and Diggy Many thanks indeed. That's really helpful. Best wishes Tim
  2. Hey guys I'm sure like many of us, I've played around with travelling rinse tanks. I've quite often bought a plastic laundry basket on a dive trip and have used that to carry my camera around and then as a rinse tank on a dive boat or at the resort or hotel. I give it away at the end of the trip. I keep toying with the idea of a Cinebag Grouper bag: https://www.cinebagsunderwater.com/cb70-square-grouper but then think, way more expensive than a $5 laundry basket and yet another thing to cram into my dive bag. But now having moved to a dive island and on boats a lot (yay!), I'm back to toying with the idea of Cinebag Grouper again. I'd welcome thoughts from anyone who uses one - and especially on the zips. I've tried several times to use soft zip-up cool bags but after a couple of trips the zips are trashed and solid with salt. Cinebags describes the YKK zips as being "salt resistant". I'd be really interested in real life experience. Do they solder hard after a few dives? Or do they remain happily open-able and close-able even after getting a good salt spray? Thanks!
  3. If you are looking for fisheye, I'd agree with Chris - although I don't think much of the Tokina 10-17 on FX.
  4. FX or DX? If DX then the 10-24 and a 180 dome. If FX the 16-35 but you defo then need a 230 domeport and arguably the Sea & Sea correction lens too
  5. Hey kole Well done on the sale. If you’re trying to delete your ad here on Wetpixel, you can’t. They’re kept for archival and reference reasons. It’s the WP policy. Best wishes
  6. Hmmm, you're right, taking the v/f to depth will increase the pressure on it and increase the seal. As I say, I've not used that combination but it just seems a little curious that you can break the vacuum seal. Can't say I have tried that with my setup but I know for sure that there is no way of, say, breaking the seal on the main housing o-ring. That'd be definitely gritting teeth hard and, I suspect getting no-where.
  7. I've got a Subal one - so not quite the same. It might twist a little but if you can break the vacuum seal by moving it, that sounds a bit odd. I'm sure others with the same gear will chip-in. I'd suggest you're right to be cautious!
  8. I'm a bit like Lewis88. Luckily I too have been able to work, albeit remotely. With no trips since the back end of last year and no restaurants, cinemas trips etc, I felt it was my duty to invest in u/w camera gear to keep a bit of the economy moving - and especially with dealers I know and who must be having a tough time. Verily the sea gods smiled on me when my partner was seconded recently to a project in Sint Maarten and we are now able to dive again. The island economy was smashed by Hurricane Irma and then, as things were really recovering, COVID. Very tough times. And now back into hurricane season again. With almost no tourist arrivals many businesses on the island have just closed up and you can only wonder who, in 6-12 months, will be left standing. A couple of the diver operators are still running trips for residents and really are doing their best. I just hope for them that this hurricane season is a benign one.
  9. Just to add to Chris’ advice, it’s worth looking at Stix floats for adding buoyancy. They are a type of solid foam which are relatively easy to slide on to Ultralight (ULCS) arms, which are excellent, and are highly adaptable.
  10. Hi Austin Interesting question. If I’m travelling on a dive holiday I have to remove my 45 degree viewfinder to get the housing in my Pelican case. On arrival I refit it, set up the housing with a port, vacuum seal it and then take it for the first dive without a camera. Assuming all’s well, the camera goes in for dive two, reseal and away we go. No dunk test That’s the only time and reason I’d do a dunk test or cameraless dive - unless maybe I had concerns about something and wanted to check without a camera. I rely on the vacuum system and leak detector to alert me to problems. If you’ve got the vacuum system confirming the seal, and it’s working correctly, I’m not sure a dunk tests adds much.
  11. I agree. Take both. Take everything! There is nothing worse than leaving stuff at home then regretting it.
  12. This post was about marks on a Retra LSD - not a strobe. The marks were nothing to do with manufacturing but looked like they may have been caused by grains of sand.
  13. Hmmmm tricky. Any idea how close they get to the cage? Are you staring into the Jaws of Death? (the Sigma) or are they Out There Somewhere (17-40)? If it's both, I'd be tempted to go with the FE. If you shoot inside the bars though, they may well look weird.
  14. Stills or video? FX or DX? I don't know the Guadeloupe dive but would have thought rectilinear if you're shooting stills - unless they're smashing into the cage and then an FE would be good! But if they are a little ways off, rectilinear would be better. 16-35 if you are using FX? Tokina 10-17 if DX.
  15. Cool - well done! Now happy diving on Saturday! (I've made Toslink cables too as back ups - cheap n'cheerful)
  16. Hey sandog Argh - how disappointing when you've just received all that new gear. I'm not a YS strobe expert and I'm sure others will chip-in. But if the camera is firing the flash initiator and you can see pulses at the ends of the fibre optic cable, then either the strobes are not seeing the pulses or the pulses are not strong enough to activate the strobes. If the issue is the latter, you might need to change your fibre optic cables. There has been a few cases on WP of folks having problems with strobe initiation with YSs and the problem being the type of cables being used. The YSs seems to need a particular fibre cable. But do check that the cables are attached correctly to the strobe and there is not a setting you need to switch to use fibre initiation rather than say, electric. I really hope you can get it fixed for the weekend.
  17. I had the same thing on my earlier Tokina. I managed just to sort of jam it back together and leave the zoom ring on it. I never used anyway for topside shots.
  18. Totally agree with Algywn. I've had both the models with the external electronics and battery (V3 and V4) and with the internal option (V5 XB). Fitting everything into the housing takes a little time and patience to get nice cable runs and making sure nothing is in the way of the camera slide. But once that's done, the internal system makes life a lot easier for changing the battery and reducing the external profile.
  19. Hi Ivan I'm sure someone will give you a much more detailed answer soon. But let me respond with a couple of quick thoughts: Yep, you are not wrong, you need a wide-angle lens for pelagic and reefscapes. Actually the more fisheye, I would argue, the better. Yep, you do need strobes. Ideally two. But you can start with one if cash flow is an understandable issue. Wet lens and domes. I'm sure one of the Ikelite/RX100 gang will chip-in with detailed thoughts. The wet lens gives you that figure of x0.75 as it "distorts" the angle of view of the lens itself by, as you calculated, x0.75. So it makes your lens wider than it was by optical distortion. However a domeport actually creates a virtual image of what the lens can see - but much closer to the port than what the lens would normally register above water. So you are shooting the virtual image not the reality. The domeport does not magnify or reduce the field of view - it just creates this virtual image. So there is no magnification or reduction. But what you do need is a lens that can focus closely enough to keep that virtual image sharp. On sensors the size of the RX and DX that's usually not a problem. But it becomes quite an issue if you move to full frame FX sensors. But that's a story for another day..... Have fun with your new gear. Exciting! PS: don't worry about feeling lost. We all do to start with. It's complex stuff . And there are no such things as stupid questions. It's the answers that can be stupid
  20. Yeah do, the Leak Sentinels are brilliant. It's my top tip for anyone buying an expensive system. THE best investment in your system you'll ever make: relatively inexpensive, provides peace of mind, a safeguard against many user-errors, a warning system, transferable from system to system as you move on... and the customer support is terrific. (and, yes, I do pay for them ;-)
  21. I feel your pain. I've just emigrated to Sint Maarten in the Dutch Caribbean to avoid turning to drink
  22. Hey Weirdly I've had both. I had the version with the petal bullt-in hood for my D300 and now have the petal-less version with my D500. There's who difference in lens quality or build - other than the missing bit in the petal-less version. I don't recall the built-in one vignetting at all or a problem fitting in either a 100mm or 8" dome. Ditto the petal-less one. Either works fine. If I had to chose, I'd probably go petal-less just that the hood makes no appreciable difference and not having it means you are probably never going to come up against vignetting issues. One thing I would say though - actually two things - about the Tokina 10-17, it's brilliant underwater with a DX camera. But I thought it was horrible topside. Weird contrasts and colouration. And it is a bit fragile. I think lots of WP users have found bits of the lens body falls off. It doesn't effect the lens in use in a housing but this is not a robust, roughly-toughty lens.
  23. Oh wow! Thanks for letting us know. That makes complete sense. And an easy fix. Yay!!!! Great news.
  24. I'm with Adam on often using a slower speed than I would on land. But I'm not brave enough to venture into nose-bleed territory of ISO3200. I'm usually in the ISO200 market.
  25. I've had two lenses that bit the dust through fungus growth (living in Indonesia) and they didn't look like that. Much more of a mottled effect. Is it possible that sand has got in? Scratches from grains of sand? But I don't they should have a major impact on the use of the LSD.(I've got one too) Pity from a cosmetic viewpoint of course, but the LSD only shapes the light and I would not have thought scratches like that would make much difference?
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