Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by TimG

  1. My experience in the last couple of decades is that it's wise to decide what you plan to photograph on a dive and then pick a lens accordingly. If what you planned to shoot doesn't show up, accept the decision of the underwater gods and don't fret it. Just enjoy the dive. And like @Pomacentridae posts, yes, I have chosen a macro lens and eg. an eagle ray or shark has turned up. S'life, eh?
  2. No worries. Have you got the "Reef Creature Identification" book? By Paul Human edited by Ned Deloach. Covers the Caribbean - ideal for Bonaire. ISBN 1-878348-019
  3. If you're still looking, that photo is a juvenile banded coral shrimp - or barber pole shrimp: Stenopus hispidus
  4. Hi JYk As someone who is possibly the opposite of a pixel peeper, I switched from being a long-term promoter and user of the Inon Z220-240 series to Retras about 3 years ago. Why? I really wanted to develop my ability to shoot snoot images. With the T-shaped Z240 Inon tubes this was something of a frustrating process with the accuracy of the Inon aiming light problematic. With the then launch of the Z330 I decided it would be a good time to sell my trusty Z240 v4 strobes. I'd read a number of reviews of the Retras and the advantages of circular flash tubes for snooting. I slapped down the cash. Gulp. Now, three years later, I really like the Retras. The quality of the light is terrific: I like the colour, I like the way I seldom get glare off fish scales and, for me best of all, I can snoot away with about a 90% accuracy rate. The Retras are extremely well made - with almost a Jonny Ives quality to the design - and much easier to use than the Inons with their multitude of buttons and quirks. The Retras - and the accompanying UWT board - have also introduced me to High Speed Sync (HSS) with wide-angle imagery. I now find I take images which I would never have attempted with the Inons shooting up into the sun and still able to create a sunburst and light the subject. Maybe some of this is down to increasing experience but, for me at least, the Retras have given me opportunities and options which the Inons did not. I would still recommend the Inons to anyone but I do think the Retras are even better. Are they worth twice (not sure it is quite twice, but hey....) the price of the Inons? As the saying goes, you pays your money and you takes your chances. For me, most definitely yes. And I'm still not peeping pixels
  5. Hi Olivier With a rectilinear lens (such as the Nikkor 16-35 and the Tamron), you need the largest dome possible. This reduces to an extent the problem of soft, blurry edges - unless you are shooting into the blue where, perhaps, softer edges are not a concern. So using a 7" dome with those lenses may result in the soft edge issue. 8" is better, 9" better still - but even then they may not be perfect.
  6. No worries. If you go for one, I hope you find the same thing
  7. I’ve been using a 45 degree finder since 2008. They do take some getting used to in the sense of adapting from a straight look-through finder. As Massimo says, they do avoid neck strain and for shooting near the seabed, they are invaluable. As you point out, for shooting up, which I think is key, they are perfect. They are a bit harder to use in mid-water situations where, to start with, you might find you are hunting for the subject. Not a problem for wide angle - more for fish portraits. The 45 degree finder has been, for me, arguably my best investment in my gear. I’d never now dive without one. I’ve transferred it from a D300 housing to a D800 and now D500. It cost about €1100 new and I’ve never regretted it for a second .
  8. Is that Ikelite’s recommendation for the port and extension combination for that lens? If it is, a lot of folks need to (literally) shave off part of - or all of - the lens hood. But obviously before you try that, check you have the right port/extension combination.
  9. Hey Floris I've been using a Zeagle Escape for more than 20 years and find it perfect for photog. Backinflated.
  10. Hey Steve In support of hyp's post, my experience has been that for many (most?) photo subjects a macro and a fisheye lens are the way to go. If you want to create "fish portraits" then, sure, the standard kit-type lenses on their own are fine. But as soon as you want to do something a bit more, the macro and fisheye are the lenses you need. For sure a fisheye looks weird, even horrible, topside. But underwater they are the ideal wide-angle lens. They allow you get very close to the subject and reduce the degrading impact of the water between the lens and the subject. If you are planning on developing your picture taking, incorporating a fisheye option is a good way to go.
  11. I got the Scubapro Go Travel fins too - at Christmas. The dive centre I use have them as the standard rental fins. I tried some out for a couple of weeks. As others have commented, I find them great for u/w photog. Not too long but still enough to be able to move in currents. They are comfortable with or without a sock and they are easy to put on and remove. The big bonus for travelling is that they are light-weight and easy to pack.
  12. Hi Charlie You can always find your own posts by looking in your Profile. They are listed there. However you can only edit your posts for a short time. If you need to make a change just add another post outlining the change.
  13. Super post, Dean. You've picked up some great lesson there. Happy photographing!
  14. There have been a number of Z330s for sale in the Classifieds. Grab one?
  15. .... I always enjoy makar0n's take on Apple computers. Fabulous as always .... Hey, you pays your money and your takes your chances.
  16. I find with Lightroom that 16GB of RAM is good on a Mac (iMac or Studio).
  17. It's very difficult with a domeport less than 8". You need flat calm seas with a 4"/100m and even then not easy!
  18. Just to add to the very good advice from Pomacentridae, it's definitely worth having two arms on each side because of the flexibility this provides. 5" and 8" are good choices. You could always start with a setup for one side and then add a second side ((handle, arms and clamps) when you feel the need or you would like to try out a different lighting arrangement. As Pomacentridae sets out, for many situations one light works well enough - even in wide-angle shots. I didn't go the float arms route but instead used Stix floats. I find them very flexible in terms of being to add or subtract buoyancy. In practice though I very rarely change the number of floats I use whether I'm shooting a 105mm, 60mm, 10-17mm or 10-24mm with their differing ports etc. My system is very slightly negatively buoyant and switching lenses and ports doesn't, I find, make such a significant difference to the buoyancy characteristics of the system that it warrants changing the floats.
  19. Chris, hyp says it all. Buy once, buy well. Buy ULCS.
  • Create New...