TimG

A number of WP members have been really kind in helping me with a zoom ring for the Nikkor 10-24. I finally collected the lens at the weekend. To my delight I found the Type 4 (ie 88 teeth) zoom ring for the Nikkor 8-15mm works perfectly on the Nikkor 10-24 lens. The Subal model of zoom ring I have for the 8-15mm has teeth all the way along the barrel of the zoom ring - not, as has been the norm, just along a short section of the ring. This makes the zoom ring much more flexible in terms of which lenses it might fit. Attached is a pic showing a couple of zoom rings: on the left with teeth all along the barrel (this is for the Nikkor 8-15 + TC) ; and on the right the usual style (for the Tokina 10-17 + TC).

OK, if you have a Type 4 housing then you need the 88 teeth (toothed?) version of the zoom ring. After that its the diameter of the zoom ring on the lens and the distance from the lens mount to the zoom ring.

Good to know. Thanks, Larry!

Hey Mags That's a bummer. Are you sure it's a type 2 you want? Most of the rings are either Type 3 or the newer Type 4 which have 88 teeth - and would go with an EXR33/4.

By then I think I will be grateful if I'm still capable of diving......

Same goes for me with a D500! I'm not sure either that, for the moment, the advantages outweigh the disadvantages. Do I really need a better camera body? As Adam sets out, seems to me the quandry is what to do if you are setting out now. Mirrorless is the way to go - but whose? Looks like Sony at the moment in terms of camera bodies. But for lenses?

.... and meanwhile, back on the A7RV.....

Thank you - and well said.....

Damned if you do, damned if you don't..... I wasn't having a go at you of course. I spent a year running a dive operation in the Lembeh Straits and made a nice little earner out of selling muck sticks. Yeah, they were maybe better than nothing in trying to keep the mightily determined inexperienced off the reef. Generally the serious u/w photographers were pretty good on buoyancy and very considerate. But there was this inevitability by those whose buoyancy skills made them feel they needed a muck stick, of then finning hard to get off the bottom. Farewell viz, farewell next person getting a pic as clouds of sediment and silt blotted out the view. This left me with a pretty jaundiced view of muck sticks! You are right, of course, super macro is hugely demanding of buoyancy control. Alex's method is good I think and if you are using finger tips to hold the edge of dead coral, then fair play!

Hi Larry Apologies for the lack of a response. We will pursue.......

There are. But it's just practice. Ditch the stick and just work on buoyancy skills.

Hey Raacerx The system won't let you modify/edit a post once it is more than a few minutes old. Just post, as you did, saying an item is sold.

Good to know, Jim - thanks! Fairly new maybe in Maldives?

I’ve heard of plenty of places that ban gloves but never anywhere that banned muck sticks. I’ve seen folks using muck sticks in Bonaire pre-COVID.

Hi TkdCol Let me add to Chris’ excellent advice. I’ve been using the Tokina for years, It’s great for wide-angle on a crop sensor and is my go-to choice. As long as your subject is not on top of the lens, the fisheye effect is not so distorted. Even on wrecks I rarely find the FE effect is over-whelming. If cost is a major issue the Tokina is ideal. You can certainly use it behind a 100mm dome but you might need a short extension ring to get the lens correctly positioned. Your housing/ dome manufacturer will advise on that and will print details of the best dome/extension ring combination for a given lens. Then you’ll need a zoom ring. The other advantage of the Tokina is that by adding a 1.4 teleconverter (a TC) you can shoot Close Focus Wide Angle (CFWA) with the small dome. This allows for some very dramatic composition of a critter close up shown against its habitat. For this you need the TC (check out the Kenko), an extra extension and zoom rings. This might be all down the road but are worth having in the back of your mind . As Chris explains, a 10-22 is a different lens and not FE. I do find that photographing larger fish that stay further away is not always practical with the Tokina . For that a 10-22 is better. But that then does need the larger, more expensive dome. Maybe something just to bear in mind when shooting say sharks or dolphins etc. I just don’t think you can go far wrong though with the Tokina on a crop sensor camera. For the majority of subjects and for the majority of users, it’s a highly practical and cost effective solution

Good one!

Hey, thanks, Samir! It was really good to meet you. I hope you have great success with the LSD.

Thanks, Elias. I’ve been doing that but was thinking of a neater solution. I’ve ordered a couple of different clips based on the links you guys have kindly provided and I’ll have a play around with them.

Yeah, worth posting. Please do.

Super! Thanks

Some years back I used to use an empty paint pot (honestly!) which was the right diameter and just cut it down a bit for a domeport cover. A short leash meant I could clip it on to my BC. If it got lost, I really would not have cared. I think it cost about .25c It's worth too exploring the kitchen aisle at a supermarket: round food storage boxes, Tupperware... all make cheerful and frugal alternatives

Fascinating and fun walk down Memory Lane, guys. If there's a desire, we can always set up a "Memories" thread. It could be pretty interesting! As Phil suggests, let's get back to WACP-C discussion. fruehaufsteher2 asked what you do with the cover when entering and leaving the water. Too big to handle? Leave it behind? Risk clanging the WACP glass?

Back??? Am I doing it all wrong?!?!? I've got bruises in my palms.