TimG

Wow, that would be brilliant! I’ve got the measurements of the lens thanks to the efforts of a couple of members.

Strange, you shouldn’t have a problem. I’ll send you one and let’s see what happens Hmmm, yes, there does seem to be a problem. I’ll investigate

I've been trying to find a zoom ring for the Nikkor 10-24 to use with a Type 4 Subal housing. No luck so far but I did learn that there are a good few dedicated Subal users amongst WP members. So why not have a Subal Users Group? If you are looking for advice on using Subal equipment or looking for a Subal item, what better place to look? Harley have their HOGs. Subal can have their SUGs. Ok, you crazy Subal users.... Follow this thread....

Agreed. I got to that point in u/w photog and wondered where to go next. I do think switching off TTL and then maybe looking for backgrounds first and subjects second helps. Snoots can be incredibly frustrating to start with especially getting the focus light and the strobe to hit the same place, But once you have it figured out, there are fabulous possibilities.

Hi Larry An interesting question. A bit like you, going back to 2009 when I was diving daily, I found a combination using the Nikon D300, Inon Z240 strobes and the curious Heinrich Weikamp TTL convertor that gave me terrific exposures - 99% of the time for macro and only slightly less for wide-angle. As you rightly say, perfect for those quick shots when something comes along unexpectedly - and nailing that tricky macro critter. A change to a D800, only holiday trips and mainly wide-angle (Red Sea) had me shooting in a slightly different way and perhaps didn't use TTL via the D800 built-in flash quite so much. I'm now on a D500, 75% macro and usually with a snoot. For that TTL would not work as the images sure do not meet the TTL aim to achieve a balanced exposure approximating the old 21% grey card standard. As you have heard from others, moving to Manual is much easier than perhaps you might think if you are used to TTL. Whereas you will (in theory and often in practice!) get a balanced exposure, with Manual you can choose not to do that and go beyond what you either get from TTL or TTL adjusted with exposure compensation. I attach a macro pic as an example. So perhaps not using TTL gives you an element more of creativity and encourages the photographer to try that path? As Chris suggests too, recent experiences have shown me that TTL does indeed work better on some systems than others - indeed consistency even between like cameras with like strobes is not automatically a given. Again as Chris says, if you're happy with what you are getting, great. Isn't that the most important aspect: enjoying what you are doing and happy with what you get? But if you fancy being a bit more adventurous, I'd suggest it is worth turning off the TTL and seeing what you can achieve to break the rules of a nicely exposed image......

Yep, ULCS make two of them: AD1420 and the AD3816. The former takes a 1/4" screw, the latter 3/8"

The Kenko 1.4 TC has been the go-to TC for a long time - certainly for CFWA use. Folks are generally happy with the image quality.

John Have you tried aiming the strobes outwards? Say, approx 45 degrees facing outwards? Then use the inner edges of the two light cones to illuminate the subject. This "kiss" lighting can work well when backscatter is an issue.

Sorry, this is maybe an idiot boy question but I had to ask, you've got the Retra mode dial set to HSS, right?

What a super idea. Thanks!

Or Risbecia tryoni?

Hey Scotty Frustrating. Others may well chip-in but Pavel who is Mr UWT is a regular reader and I'm sure will comment soon.

A free radical? Yeah, never saw the need. Although topside I use VR all the time.

No worries

I must admit I never use VR underwater. I couldn’t tell you why. Maybe I just figure in tropical waters, with strobes camera shake is not an issue.

Looks scary. Great that it worked though. I can well understand the progression from praying to crying - sweating too .....

Here's a link to the discussion that WP members have had about this:

It's the Nikon version of IS: "Vibration Reduction".

Back in the day (so, 2010-ish).... you could get TTL with Inon Z240s using electrical sync cords through the Heinrich Weikamp convertor. It worked really well for macro. It looked like a test tube - about 4" long with a bunch of electronics in it. I used it happily on a Nikon D300 while running a dive operation in the Lembeh Straits. I think divegypsy bought it off me years ago.

Good luck! And do keep us posted.

Here's a link to a similar discussion:

I've just embarked down this road and have had readers (+2.0) installed by Seethesea in a new Cressi mask. Today was the first dives using it. Seethesea recommended installing the readers in the bottom of the mask. The reasoning, with which I agreed, was that for much of a dive long vision is in use - and mine is really good. The readers come in well for checking settings especially the camera Menu and Info displays and making sure I'm using the right housing control (!). They are also good for checking the rear screen display after an image has been taken (I don't use Liveview). For the actual optical viewfinder display, I'll continue to use the diopter setting control. I found the mask took a little getting used to - especially the slight line which is noticeable where the readers effectively divide the mask. The difference in being able to read the screen displays and controls was highly improved. I can see that the mask would be terrific for, as holloways suggests, reading underwater, eg doing REEF-type surveys

I always found annoying the Z-240 button that you had to twist to keep the focus light on - and then untwist to turn it off. Almost impossible I'd have thought with gloves. Happily as a warm water, non-gloved diver, the pre-pulse button was never an issue. I can sure see the problem though!