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Everything posted by TimG
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Hey Sven You asked too about the right Subal port. I suggest you go with the DP-FE2. This will handle the 18mm end of the lens - you will need the correct extension ring and possibly diopter (check out the Subal website for details). The DP-FE2 will also handle the 12-24mm lens and the 10.5. I also use it with 18-70. Its expensive but works for all the wide angles.
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24-120 lens or the 18-200 or 18-70 kit lens?
TimG replied to paquito's topic in Photography Gear and Technique
I bought the 18-200VR lens about three weeks ago to replace the Nikkor 28-200. I shoot a lot of low-light religious imagery for a stock agency. I almost never use flash - and can rarely use a tripod. I hate to think how many "well I'll give a it a try" pics I have taken at hopelessly low shutter speeds: and then had to hit the delete key. But the 18-200 really seems to be making a difference. I am gettng far more sharp images now. Works for me! -
I started with a 60mm and loved it. But a trip to Lembeh Straits lead me to buying a 105mm. Harder to use than the 60mm, but it can produce spectacular results and is now a firm favourite. Much shorter DOF and not so good for the fish portraits though. So just not as flexible a lens.
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Hey Udo Hardware shops sell cans of spray insulating foam which hardens to a cut-able surface. The stuff is a bit nasty to use and you need to be careful with it as it expands rapidly. But it works well enough
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Scary moment there David! I've just got my Subal ND20. I hope I don't have that problem!
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I'm lucky - I have both. The 12-24 produces pictures I really like. The 10.5 is far more difficult to use - but it can produce very striking images. You just have to be more careful and thoughtful on composition.
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I'm with the cleaning crowd: let it have a good soak in fresh water; remove the o-ring, undo the handle bolts, clean them, re-grease and re-fit them. Replace the back without the o-ring - then sit the housing on my desk and admire it.
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Thanks Anthony. Seaoptics have got my D200 Subal housing
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Hey Guys Its time to sell my Subal D10 and Nikon D100 bodies (two of them). They are all in top condition and will appear on eBay shortly. Well looked-after, never flooded, much-loved and about 2 years old. The housing looks like new. Housing is complete with Subal handles (not shown in pic), spare o-ring, port cover and manual. D100s have body caps, straps and manuals. Happy to discuss offers: Tim@gurney.f9.co.uk
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I vote for wrist mounted. Much easier to keep an eye on, lighter, as Alex says, for travelling; no trailing console reef damage. The only time I find them slightly tricky is stretching the older-style Uwatec elasticated strap (I've got the Air ZO2)over the cuff joint on my DUI dry suit.
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Talking to my dealer (Seaoptics) this might be the first ever time that I can get housing (the Subal ND20) before the cameras! Housings are due shortly - but no sign of the D200s yet.
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My D70 is BROKEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
TimG replied to MikeVeitch's topic in Photography Gear and Technique
Oh boy.... I really feel your pain, Mike. If there was ever a lesson for owning two camera bodies, this is it...... Best of luck fixing it: sorry I can't help! -
Hi Dan I spent 5 very happy years living in Bermuda and probably did some 400+ dives there. It's a terrific place to start u/w photography - as so many of the dive sites are shallow and have a safe, sand bottom. Dives in the 30' range are not unusual. As everyone else has said, you can start u/w photog as soon as you have good buoyancy skills; and adjusting your equipment is second nature. You shouldn't have to worry about how you equalise etc with a camera in your hand. Dive sites in the west end of Bermuda tend to be a little shallower (the 30' range I have mentioned) as opposed to the east end of the island where they can be a bit deeper. I can recommend Blue Water Divers. Water temperatures vary hugely from the low 60s in winter to the low 80s in summer. Viz is usually in the 50'-70' range but on a good day can be over 100'. Because of illegal fishing some years ago, Bermuda is a bit fish-lite. But there is a reasonable range of Caribbean reef fish - if not quite as abundant. Coral structures are very good. Lots of swim throughs. Lots of mangled wrecks. A wide-angle lens works well for the reef structures; and probably a 60mm macro for fish portraits. If you want to know more about Bermuda diving, feel free to email me.
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Hi, I did Vilamendhoo in South Ari Atol in Feb 2004. It was terrific with perfect topside weather and ideal u/w conditions. The island has a Wener Lau dive operation which was very well run - if a little authoritarian. We hit jackpot with mantas on Madi Varu dive site (a two hour boat ride to the west) - an awesome sight. About 5 of them circled us for about 10-15 minutes. But certainly no pelagics.
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I made one up a bit like Mat's - and certainly feel happier when swimming across the blue with it attached. I can't say that it has ever really got in the way or caused me problems. I also have a couple of Fastexs on my BC and ULCS arms. If I need to use both hands in extremis, I can clip up my housing to my BC.
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Hi Neil I used an SB105 on slave setting with an Inon Z220 as the master with my Subal ND10 housing and a Nikon D100. No problems. It can be a bit annoying if a nearby photographer's strobe fires the SB105 - but if it does, may be I was too close!
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Anyone know how to fix a notebook display?
TimG replied to fairybasslet's topic in Shooting Technique, Workflow and Editing
Hmm, tricky as it's all a bit subjective. Have you tried calibrating with a Spyder? I think most pros would agree with the advice you have been given: save any serious editing until you can work on a large monitor. But, I have to say, I do the same as you! -
The Lexars x80 have been good for me.
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I agree with Karl. I wouldn't find 28mm wide enough (on cropped frame digital) to be worthwhile. Even 18mm is not very wide. So I would suggest both lens are compromises. I know you didn't want "neither" as an option - but that would be my answer! As Karl suggests, a 60mm is much better for fish portraits; and a 12-24 or 10.5 for wide angles. You only need to buy a lens once: so get the right one to start with.
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I was just wondering which kind of cake tin works best? Rich fruit cake? Shortbread maybe?? Metal or plastic? Decisions, decisions.
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How to travel with camera housing?
TimG replied to Hobbes382's topic in Photography Gear and Technique
I travel a lot on business and my dive gear/camera comes too. Like Luiz I've been lucky - apart from my trip in December to Bunaken when my dive gear arrived 24 hours later. But I always make sure I have my camera and lenses,housing, 60mm port, strobes etc so I can take pics - even if I have to rent scuba gear. -
Got mine on order! Subal told me by email a couple of days ago that the first batch would go out in April.
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Hey Guys Yes, I'm going to take the plunge and upgrade. So I have a Subal D10 housing (for Nikon D100s) for sale. Excellent condition with only minor (truly minor) scuff marks on the base. Never flooded, lovingly looked after. Around 75 dives clocked. Lives and travels wrapped in Pelican protection. It looks new. Complete with port cover, spare o-ring and manual. Photo available. And.... I have two Nikon D100 bodies for sale too. Both in tip-top shape. Complete with batteries, battery grips, chargers and manuals. Interested? Email me at Tim@gurney.f9.co.uk. Happy to sell individually or as job lot. Price negotiable depending on what you want. Ship from Australia. No worries.
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One other thought that might be of help: as far as I could tell, most people seem to travel to Manado via Singapore using Silk Air. I was living in Banda Aceh for a few weeks late last year - and made enquiries about using Garuda Indonesia. I found them significantly cheaper. A round-trip Jakarta-Manado-Jakarta was only around $270 (Rps 2.7m) for the three and a half hour flight. And they wern't in the slightest bit bothered that I was carrying about 50kgs of gear. Friendly service too.