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TimG

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Everything posted by TimG

  1. Hey Scott There is a recent thread on this. I bought the Epson P-2000 recently which works very well: 30GB and a very good screen. And I'm selling a Nixvue Vista! (see Classifieds). They are also very good. Most of the digital storage devices are multi-voltage so you don't need a converter (heavy things they are too) Rechargable batteries: Radio Shack. I recommend Nickel Metal Hydride which avoids the NiCad memory issue. Dessicants: hardware store. Microwaves dry them out nicely. One thing to add to your list: plug/mains adaptors. Make sure you have the right plug adaptor for where you are going. Charger for your AA batteries? Have a wicked trip!
  2. Hey Guys I have a Nixvue Vista digital storage player for sale. Check out the picture on http://www.steves-digicams.com/2002_review...xvue_vista.html The unit holds 20GBs and will store and display RAW as well as JPGs via CF or microdrives. It will handle other media formats with obtainable adaptors. I have upgraded the firmware to the latest version. The player comes with a very snappy travel case, remote control, manual and power pack. It can be connected to a TV set to show images or present a slideshow assisted by the remote It is in perfect condition and has given me a couple of years of very good service. I'm looking for £95 with buyer paying postage costs. I can probably sort out a PayPal arrangement. They are terrific items of equipment.
  3. Oh man, what a sickener - my sympathies. I almost gave birth to a cow on the first dive day of my recent round the world dive tour. As I put my system in the dunk tank prior to the first dive, that jolly little leak detector LED started flashing its socks off. Thankfully I got the camera out in time. Like you I could not work out what on earth I had done wrong - I had been so careful on set-up. And then realised I had not removed the rubber viewfinder eyepiece from my D100 - thus preventing a complete seal on the housing. It was impossible to detect the gap with an visual inspection. Phew, what a lesson learned.
  4. I doubt there are any DSLRs where you can use the LCD to compose the pic. SLRs use a mirror to move the image from the lens to the viewfinder. Presumably it would be feasible to move the image to an LCD somewhere en route. But then you would be losing much of the point of an SLR: what the lens sees, you see directly and in "real time" through the viewfinder.
  5. Yep, I have the same experience. Payouts can take quite a time - as can anyone actually buying the images that you provide. But the agency that takes my stuff keeps telling me that it takes time to establish a stream of sales; and that it is important to keep providing images and build up a large, high-quality collection.
  6. I bought a Sony VAIO S2 series at Christmas and am delighted with it. 80GB hard disk, 1 GB RAM, DVD burner, light weight, 2-3 hour battery life, WLAN built-in. Its my second VAIO - the last one I had for 4 years and it never so much as hiccupped. I can recommend them. I think there is an S3 or maybe even S4 series now: same body, enhanced guts.
  7. Phew. I banged off half a dozen RAW pics on my 2GB card and was able to both read them off the CF card through the P2000; and then to download them. Quick little sucker too. And the screen is superb.
  8. Man I hope that is wrong! I bought a P-2000 a few days ago to use with my 2GB Lexar CF cards. I havn't tried it yet and never thought for a moment that there might be a problem. I'll go and try it..........
  9. Many thanks guys. I must admit I was hoping that the purchase of a monopod and a switch to 400 ISO would do the trick - but sadly not: even with a nice Manfrotto. I guess advancing years are enhancing camera shake. Actually its probably too many alcohol soaked years on the diplomatic circuit that are doing me in I checked out the 24-120 yesterday at a dealer - and was not too impressed. The 80-200 does seem the way to go but, believe it or not, I cannot find a dealer in the UK who actually has one - even the Nikon main dealers. They are all blaming Nikon distribution. I'm a bit reluctant to spend so much via the mail order route without actually trying it. I guess waiting will let me save up. Tha ks for the advice. Much appreciated.
  10. Hey guys Although not strictly an underwater question, y'all have so much equipment knowledge I thought I'd ask here. I'm looking for a medium-wide to medium-telephoto zoom to use with my D100s. I already have the Nikkor 28-200 which is pretty good - but I need something faster that I can use indoors in low-light situations where I cannot use a flash or tripod. The Nikkor 70-200 sounds good but is a ton of cash and appears to be big/heavy - and almost unobtainable it seems in the UK! I had thought the Nikkor 24-120 VR would be ideal with the VR making up for the relatively small apertures. But Thom Hagan's review is less than enthusiastic about the lens. I can't see anything suitable either on the Sigma or Tamron websites and DPReview hasn't given me any inspiration. Does anyone have any experience of the Nikkor 24-120? Or any other suggestions for something suitable? I want to cover roughly the 80-150 range with anything wide making the lens more useful. Thanks
  11. Wow! You must have looked back over your shoulder once or twice swimming away from that dive site. Cue Jaws music?
  12. Hi Mike A couple of other thoughts which you might know already: its worth bearing in mind the rule of thirds. Objects generally look better if the main point of the subject (a fish eye perhaps) is located where two lines (one vertical, one horizontal) of third cross (I hope that makes sense!). Also, pictures can look more dramatic if you shoot the subject on a diagonal rather than vertical or horizontal. Sometimes with u/w pics you can get away with holding the camera at 45 degrees to make the subject look on a diagonal -rather than actually having to position yourself to achieve this. But beware of making a background look distorted, eg a 45 degree reef. If you can combine the rule of thirds and the diagonal you should find your picture composition improves. And, as others have said, get as close as you can. And then get closer. Your last pic of the hawkfish is a good example of this. And then have fun!
  13. Hmmm, not sure about that. I do find my system writes more quickly to a Lexar x80 2GB than it does to a 1GB microdrive. But I guess that is not surprising. I suspect it depends on the card.
  14. OK, you guys with the beautiful diver wives: do they have sisters? Who own vineyards that produce an enjoyable Beaujolais? Oh, and an Aston Martin. As for for finding subjects, yep, talk to the DMs, do a bit of research before you go on what the critters you can expect in an area - and where they tend to live (under rocks, mid-water, only come out at night: that sort of stuff), plan a lens to do it. TAKE YOUR TIME. As I take more pics underwater I find I travel less and less distance on the bottom. I suggest finding a nice patch of coral and watching it carefully for a while and see what emerges. Let them come to you. Watch for movement giving away a well-concealed little guy. Being calm helps your buoyancy too and is less likely to scare the field away. If all that doesn't work, yep, go the gorgeous dive buddy route and take pics of her. On buddies, I think it REALLY helps to have a regular photo dive buddy. You then both know your dive styles. And you can keep each other vaguely in sight (depending on depths etc) If you can't manage that, ask the DM to pair you up with another serious photographer. There is nothing worse than being paired with someone determined to explore miles of reef on one dive. A rebreather? Wouldn't that be nice. As the saying goes, if you got 'em, smoke 'em. But if you stay cool, calm and collected, a gently breathing scuba set is the next best thing. Good luck. The Rhone is a fun dive. Say hi to Jacqui B if she is still down there.
  15. Yep, count me in too: Nikkor 10.5, 12-24 and a 60mm for macro. If you decide you hate the D2X, do give me a yell......
  16. Maybe I'm being a bit of a wuss, but I've been using Photoshop Album since v1.0. I've got just over 10,000 pics sorted and organised. Its simple to use and backs up pretty easily to DVDs, CDs or my external hard disk. No real problems so far; and I can locate an eg, wrasse, blue-head variety shot in err, Bonaire.
  17. Hi Ellen Ahh, the science of milk bottle bottoms....... You might find at times that the output from the SB105 is too much for the picture you are trying to create. I found this especially with macro - even with the strobe on its lowest power setting and the plastic diffuser in place. I heard about inserting an extra piece of translucent white plastic between the strobe and its diffuser. I'm not sure where you live, but I have been in places where milk bottles are made of plastic - and the diameter of the bottom is, when sliced off with a knife, about the right size to fit behind the SB105 diffuser. But things like yoghurt carton bottoms would probably work too. I don't think the flavour of the yoghurt makes a difference. I found it handy to have one of these home-made super-diffusers in my BC pocket which I could fit into the strobe when necessary.
  18. Welcome aboard Ellen! No problem using a SB105 with digital - although you might find you need a slightly thicker diffuser. A yogurt cartoon or plastic milk bottle bottom works well. And I agree with James, a couple of dodgey exposures with the first pic or two till you get the strobes set up. But after that digital without TTL is no problem.
  19. I switched from an LCD-composed system (a Coolpix 5000) to a viewfinder DSLR about a year ago. The adjustment did take a while but the effort was well worth it.
  20. Yeah, I agree with Dave: size is everything and the bigger the better. 2GB is good; 4GB probably better. I've only got as far as 2GB yet which, on my D100, gives me 206 RAW pics. I normally find this is good for 3-4 dives (once the duff ones are weeded out) which means I only open the housing once when the dive day is over to change battery and download the card. Like Dave I reckon the fewer housing openings the better. I'm not so sure about write speed though. I'm no techie but it seems to me that the quicker the buffer is written to the card, the more pictures you can take in rapid succession. And I can think of occasions where I have shot 3-4 pics quickly and the camera/card kept up. My 2GB card is a Lexar Pro x80 and it seems to cope pretty well.
  21. I agree with Joel: I don't think there is a right answer. Instinct tells me that it is better to leave the batteries out - so connected batteries don't show up up on x-ray machine. But I doubt it makes much difference. So much seems to depend on the experience of the x-ray operator: if he or she has seen lots of strobes, dive computers (or whatever) they are less inclined to open the case - they know what they are seeing.
  22. For carrying my system around and on and off boats, I find a soft, folding coolbag very useful. It takes up no space in my dive bag - and provides padded protection for the camera/strobes when not in the water. $20 from a camping shop. Like other posters, I reckon folding the arms to form a triangle with the apex at the top is a pretty good way to make it easier for it to passed to you in the water. Its possible to use some Fastex clips to secure the arms together.
  23. I was in Mabul/Kapalai in late May. The macro potential is certainly amazing although I have to admit I thought the dive site awful on my first dive - on Mabul. Then my eyes adjusted to the murk and muck. Bingo. It is certainly very soupy and I was very happy to use a 60mm. But then I don't own a 105mm. Yet. What about using a 60mm with TC?
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