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Posts posted by TimG

  1. 16 hours ago, UWPics said:

    I get scolded by DM’s at some locations for touching the reef, even two fingers on dead rock.

    Damned if you do, damned if you don't.....

    I wasn't having a go at you of course.  

    I spent a year running a dive operation in the Lembeh Straits and made a nice little earner out of selling muck sticks. Yeah, they were maybe better than nothing in trying to keep the mightily determined inexperienced off the reef. Generally the serious u/w photographers were pretty good on buoyancy and very considerate.

    But there was this inevitability by those whose buoyancy skills made them feel they needed a muck stick, of then finning hard to get off the bottom. Farewell viz, farewell next person getting a pic as clouds of sediment and silt blotted out the view. 

    This left me with a pretty jaundiced view of muck sticks!

    You are right, of course, super macro is hugely demanding of buoyancy control. Alex's method is good I think and if you are using finger tips to hold the edge of dead coral, then fair play!

  2. 1 hour ago, Redwing said:

    Until today, I just assumed there must be a class of divers out there with super-human buoyancy skills taking these perfectly in focus super macro shots with mm depth of fields.

    There are. But it's just practice. Ditch the stick and just work on buoyancy skills. :P

  3. Hi TkdCol

    Let me add to Chris’ excellent advice.  

    I’ve been using the Tokina for years, It’s great for wide-angle on a crop sensor and is my go-to choice. As long as your subject is not on top of the lens, the fisheye effect is not so distorted.  Even on wrecks I rarely find the FE effect is over-whelming.

    If cost is a major issue the Tokina is ideal.  You can certainly use it behind a 100mm dome but you might need a short extension ring to get the lens correctly positioned. Your housing/ dome manufacturer will advise on that and will print details of the best dome/extension ring combination for a given lens. Then you’ll need a zoom ring.  

    The other advantage of the Tokina is that by adding a 1.4 teleconverter (a TC) you can shoot Close Focus Wide Angle (CFWA) with the small dome. This allows for some very dramatic composition of a critter close up shown against its habitat.  For this you need the TC (check out the Kenko), an extra extension and zoom rings.  This might be all down the road but are worth having in the back of your mind .

    As Chris explains, a 10-22 is a different lens and not FE. I do find that photographing larger fish that stay further away is not always practical with the Tokina . For that a 10-22 is better. But that then does need the larger, more expensive dome.  Maybe something just to bear in mind when shooting say sharks or dolphins etc. 

    I just don’t think you can go far wrong though with the Tokina on a crop sensor camera. For the majority of subjects and for the majority of users, it’s a highly practical and cost effective solution  


  4. Some years back I used to use an empty paint pot (honestly!) which was the right diameter and just cut it down a bit for a domeport cover.

    A short leash meant I could clip it on to my BC. If it got lost, I really would not have cared. I think it cost about .25c

    It's worth too exploring the kitchen aisle at a supermarket: round food storage boxes, Tupperware... all make cheerful and frugal alternatives :crazy:

  5. Fascinating and fun walk down Memory Lane, guys. If there's a desire, we can always set up a "Memories" thread. It could be pretty interesting!

    As Phil suggests, let's get back to WACP-C discussion.

    fruehaufsteher2 asked what you do with the cover when entering and leaving the water. Too big to handle? Leave it behind? Risk clanging the WACP glass?

  6. I can chip-in a bit:

    Essentially the Anglerfish can be switched on or off underwater. It has a sensor that detects the flash of a distant strobe which then triggers an initiating LED. A strobe connected to the Anglerfish by fibre optic will then fire. 

    So when your primary strobe fires, the Anglerfish detects that and fires the remote strobe that is connected to it. The response is so fast you cannot distinguish a delay. 

    The Anglerfish is battery operated and compact. They are very good if slightly finicky in working out how to turn them on and off. Essentially you have to slap them into the palm of your hand. A technique that takes a little practice!

  7. 1 hour ago, Interceptor121 said:

    Tim I was referring to topside shots like birds in flight not underwater when talking about crop

    For me underwater rectilinear lenses have three purposes 

    1. Divers or wrecks where I can clearly see distortion (not all wrecks are like that)

    2. Split shoots where you can see the horizon line

    3. Blue water shots when a fisheye makes thing look tiny

    All looks good to me, Massimo

  8. Bit late to this party but:

    I've been humming and hahhing for ages about whether to get a rectilinear for my D500. Since moving back to DX the Tokina 10-18 has been my go-to wide-angle lens. It is very rare indeed that, for me, the fisheye distortion is noticeable and unpleasant. 

    Looking at Wolfgang's table coral examples, it's pretty hard to tell the first one is a fisheye shot. Does it need adjusting? It's in the eye of the beholder. Maybe the Thistlegorm shot exaggerates the perspective slightly. But some would argue that it increases the dramatic effect.

    As Chris suggests, and the conclusion I have come to, that adding a rectilinear is helpful if you want to shoot subjecs that are a bit more distant (as Chris says, sharks, whales etc) or ,interesting point made by Massimo,  if its fast moving subjects that might well end up near the edge of the image and which will need cropping (though this then gets into the soft edge issue)

    For those reasons I decided recently to buy the Nikkor 10-24 - essentially to have a lens that is better for those bigger, slightly more distant subjects. Lots of sharks here in Sint Maarten! I hope to get it in the water next week.

  9. Nice! 

    If you have LR I'd be tempted to:

    -  use the Dehaze slightly on the whale shark pics. I think that would give them slightly more eight and definition. And maybe cool the pictures a bit - they seem to haver a red tinge to them (the fishball one especially)

    - reduce the highlights on the fishball. The fish to the right of centre look over exposed and reducing the highlights might sort this out a bit

    - one the final shot, the wreck with the cables, maybe lighten up the shadows a bit? Both those wreck shots are nicely atmospheric.

    I hope that helps a little.

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