TimG

Hi Olivier With a rectilinear lens (such as the Nikkor 16-35 and the Tamron), you need the largest dome possible. This reduces to an extent the problem of soft, blurry edges - unless you are shooting into the blue where, perhaps, softer edges are not a concern. So using a 7" dome with those lenses may result in the soft edge issue. 8" is better, 9" better still - but even then they may not be perfect.

No worries. If you go for one, I hope you find the same thing

I’ve been using a 45 degree finder since 2008. They do take some getting used to in the sense of adapting from a straight look-through finder. As Massimo says, they do avoid neck strain and for shooting near the seabed, they are invaluable. As you point out, for shooting up, which I think is key, they are perfect. They are a bit harder to use in mid-water situations where, to start with, you might find you are hunting for the subject. Not a problem for wide angle - more for fish portraits. The 45 degree finder has been, for me, arguably my best investment in my gear. I’d never now dive without one. I’ve transferred it from a D300 housing to a D800 and now D500. It cost about €1100 new and I’ve never regretted it for a second .

Is that Ikelite’s recommendation for the port and extension combination for that lens? If it is, a lot of folks need to (literally) shave off part of - or all of - the lens hood. But obviously before you try that, check you have the right port/extension combination.

Hey Floris I've been using a Zeagle Escape for more than 20 years and find it perfect for photog. Backinflated.

Hey Steve In support of hyp's post, my experience has been that for many (most?) photo subjects a macro and a fisheye lens are the way to go. If you want to create "fish portraits" then, sure, the standard kit-type lenses on their own are fine. But as soon as you want to do something a bit more, the macro and fisheye are the lenses you need. For sure a fisheye looks weird, even horrible, topside. But underwater they are the ideal wide-angle lens. They allow you get very close to the subject and reduce the degrading impact of the water between the lens and the subject. If you are planning on developing your picture taking, incorporating a fisheye option is a good way to go.

I got the Scubapro Go Travel fins too - at Christmas. The dive centre I use have them as the standard rental fins. I tried some out for a couple of weeks. As others have commented, I find them great for u/w photog. Not too long but still enough to be able to move in currents. They are comfortable with or without a sock and they are easy to put on and remove. The big bonus for travelling is that they are light-weight and easy to pack.

Hi Charlie You can always find your own posts by looking in your Profile. They are listed there. However you can only edit your posts for a short time. If you need to make a change just add another post outlining the change.

Super post, Dean. You've picked up some great lesson there. Happy photographing!

There have been a number of Z330s for sale in the Classifieds. Grab one?

.... I always enjoy makar0n's take on Apple computers. Fabulous as always .... Hey, you pays your money and your takes your chances.

Good one, Laurent - thanks!

I find with Lightroom that 16GB of RAM is good on a Mac (iMac or Studio).

Yeah, that all makes good sense.

It's very difficult with a domeport less than 8". You need flat calm seas with a 4"/100m and even then not easy!

Just to add to the very good advice from Pomacentridae, it's definitely worth having two arms on each side because of the flexibility this provides. 5" and 8" are good choices. You could always start with a setup for one side and then add a second side ((handle, arms and clamps) when you feel the need or you would like to try out a different lighting arrangement. As Pomacentridae sets out, for many situations one light works well enough - even in wide-angle shots. I didn't go the float arms route but instead used Stix floats. I find them very flexible in terms of being to add or subtract buoyancy. In practice though I very rarely change the number of floats I use whether I'm shooting a 105mm, 60mm, 10-17mm or 10-24mm with their differing ports etc. My system is very slightly negatively buoyant and switching lenses and ports doesn't, I find, make such a significant difference to the buoyancy characteristics of the system that it warrants changing the floats.

Chris, hyp says it all. Buy once, buy well. Buy ULCS.

Hey Ben The issue of water beading up on under/over shots has been written about extensively. Just search on WP. Folks have made all sorts of useful contributions.

Yeah, this does look good. I almost wish I hadn't read it now!

Yeah, the dilemma many of us have faced! I've been using a Pelican 1510 roll case for years. As you say, fully-loaded, the weight is scary. This has been on dozens of dive trips, to very many regions using everything from budget airlines to Business class. It has always been in the cabin with me. Ironically the only time anyone did question the weight was in the Business class check-in on Emirates in Amsterdam on the way to Manila. As you say, when I explained the delicate nature and batteries, they waved it through albeit slightly reluctantly. In the last year or so we have been on trips involving small Twin Otter-style aircraft for island-hopping. There was no way that a Pelican case could be in the cabin nor would the case necessarily travel on the same flight as me and my dive bag if it was checked. So I carried the housing with camera installed, lenses, strobes and a minimum of delicate gear in a soft Cinebags Grouper bag. Slight looks from the flight handlers but an explanation it was delicate camera gear - followed by Houdini-esque efforts to get the bag under the seat or behind my knees..... I do think that a calm, friendly non-confrontational approach with airline staff explaining the risks/damage potential usually, thankfully, carries the day. Always a bit stressful though.

Hi Alyssa Welcome to Wetpixel. I’ve moved your post looking for the Ikelite part to the Classifieds forum as it’s more likely to get a response there. Fingers crossed!

That is seriously disappointing- especially the lack of responses.

Do you want another one??

Interesting on the 85mm, Draq. I think the 60mm is excellent for the bigger critters and certainly for "fish portraits". Views on the 85mm?

Would you not need to use a tripod? I use the technique with a Nikon Z6 topside and you can get amazing results. But stability seemed to be the key otherwise alignment is going to be a mess.