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Everything posted by TimG

  1. Others with more detailed knowledge will, I'm sure chip-in - but 2018 was pretty early days for HSS on the Retras. I'm not sure the strobes at that stage had HSS so the likelihood is that the trigger didn't either. That said, you can't go far wrong just by trying it. I've got a UWT board in my Subal housing that let's me use HSS on Retra ProX. It's a really great feature especially for those heavily backlight or sunball shots.
  2. Does anyone know where I can find the cable management clips shown in this photo? They are part of the system in a Subal housing and I'd like to fit a couple more for the vacuum valve cabling. But I can't find anything like them after many a Google expedition. They are 15mm long and 8mm wide. I've not been able to find any that are so small. Thanks!
  3. Hi Tim If you are planning to buy a commercial fibre optic cable they are all pretty much the same - other than making sure you have the right plugs at each end. If you are buying through an u/w camera company just let them know what you want to connect to what. You can chose between coiled cable and straight. Coiled seems a good idea but I found the coils can put an unnecessary strain on the connections - and I now only use straight. You can make your own cables by buying the plugs which are readily available and some 617-strand fibre optic cable. They are easy to make, tailored to your own needs, inexpensive (certainly compared to commercial ones) and very satisfying!
  4. No worries. I hope we can get it sorted quickly for him
  5. Hmm, sorry about that. We'll sort it out. Ask him to be patient!
  6. There shouldn’t be a problem. Could he post something?
  7. Hey Steve. No, it shouldn’t take long. Let me take a look. “foot doc” is the user name?
  8. I think you make a good point there. You can add more and more pixels and better and better "image quality". But to what end? For many of us (most of us?) looking at an image on screen does not require tons of pixels or tons of IQ. And even for commercial usage, as Alex M pointed out recently, magazine cover images need to be interesting images not megapixels. I'm still selling images taken on a Nikon Coolpix 5000. No-one has muttered about the lack of pixels or the dodgy IQ. Maybe if you want to create massive prints and have the house walls to handle them, then fair enough. Otherwise, what is the point? As I've written here before, we are seduced by camera manufacturer marketing. Moving gear around now is such a headache with airline limitations. Seems to me being able to transport gear to dive locations is now a bigger issue than having loads of megapixels and the sharpest optics. Sorry this is all Off Topic but, hey..... And I'll now shut up......
  9. LOL, a buddy of mine here in Sint Maarten combined u/w photog AND rebreathers. I could see the reason but, mercy, the amount of gear, the space he needed on the boat - and the care to set up and monitor was incredible.
  10. I'm sure Phil and Alex will reply, but just to fill in the gap.... Anglerfish remote triggers work pretty well for those situations: http://www.anglerfishlighting.ca/anglerfish-remote-optical-trigger.html
  11. TimG

    ISO & aperture

    Yep, that's what I use
  12. TimG

    ISO & aperture

    Yep, I agree with Stu. I think I've come to see the three elements (shutter speed, aperture and ISO) in underwater photography use as: - Shutter speed: to vary the blueness or blackness of the image background especially for macro. The faster the blacker. Fires the strobes up to a certain point (maybe 1/250 depending on system) and higher using HSS. Freeze motion when strobes not in use. - Aperture: controls depth of field so a large element of creative control. - ISO: increase when the shutter speed has got especially slow to help avoid motion blur or camera shake. Higher ISO helps with motion freeze when strobes not in use. These may not be entirely classic photography uses - but I find these work for me underwater.
  13. Super tip, Stoo. I knew I should have paid more attention at chemistry
  14. Please do feed back here, Mags. LOTS of interest.
  15. Hmmm, interesting. I use Retra strobes on a D500 via a UWT Subal HSS v4 trigger. The flash icon in the viewfinder always illuminates when the camera is turned on with the trigger connected; and the Metadata does show: Flash "did fire". Maybe it's a S&S YS thing? Which trigger have you got? UWT, right?
  16. Woah! That's quite something! For those with a long neck?
  17. You probably squeeze in, right?
  18. Wow, that would be brilliant! I’ve got the measurements of the lens thanks to the efforts of a couple of members.
  19. Strange, you shouldn’t have a problem. I’ll send you one and let’s see what happens Hmmm, yes, there does seem to be a problem. I’ll investigate
  20. I've been trying to find a zoom ring for the Nikkor 10-24 to use with a Type 4 Subal housing. No luck so far but I did learn that there are a good few dedicated Subal users amongst WP members. So why not have a Subal Users Group? If you are looking for advice on using Subal equipment or looking for a Subal item, what better place to look? Harley have their HOGs. Subal can have their SUGs. Ok, you crazy Subal users.... Follow this thread....
  21. Agreed. I got to that point in u/w photog and wondered where to go next. I do think switching off TTL and then maybe looking for backgrounds first and subjects second helps. Snoots can be incredibly frustrating to start with especially getting the focus light and the strobe to hit the same place, But once you have it figured out, there are fabulous possibilities.
  22. Hi Larry An interesting question. A bit like you, going back to 2009 when I was diving daily, I found a combination using the Nikon D300, Inon Z240 strobes and the curious Heinrich Weikamp TTL convertor that gave me terrific exposures - 99% of the time for macro and only slightly less for wide-angle. As you rightly say, perfect for those quick shots when something comes along unexpectedly - and nailing that tricky macro critter. A change to a D800, only holiday trips and mainly wide-angle (Red Sea) had me shooting in a slightly different way and perhaps didn't use TTL via the D800 built-in flash quite so much. I'm now on a D500, 75% macro and usually with a snoot. For that TTL would not work as the images sure do not meet the TTL aim to achieve a balanced exposure approximating the old 21% grey card standard. As you have heard from others, moving to Manual is much easier than perhaps you might think if you are used to TTL. Whereas you will (in theory and often in practice!) get a balanced exposure, with Manual you can choose not to do that and go beyond what you either get from TTL or TTL adjusted with exposure compensation. I attach a macro pic as an example. So perhaps not using TTL gives you an element more of creativity and encourages the photographer to try that path? As Chris suggests too, recent experiences have shown me that TTL does indeed work better on some systems than others - indeed consistency even between like cameras with like strobes is not automatically a given. Again as Chris says, if you're happy with what you are getting, great. Isn't that the most important aspect: enjoying what you are doing and happy with what you get? But if you fancy being a bit more adventurous, I'd suggest it is worth turning off the TTL and seeing what you can achieve to break the rules of a nicely exposed image......
  23. Yep, ULCS make two of them: AD1420 and the AD3816. The former takes a 1/4" screw, the latter 3/8"
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