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eyeguy last won the day on January 27 2014

eyeguy had the most liked content!

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About eyeguy

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  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D-7000
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea & Sea YS- D1 and 110alpha
  • Accessories
    ULCS strobe arms

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  1. Pavel, I had the opportunity tonight to try the MF-1 with the camera set to Auto FP and the flash compensation set to +1 ev. If fired every time! So again, thanks for your knowledge and advice regarding using my TTL converter with MF-1. Very helpful!! Stewart
  2. Extremely helpful Pavel, thank you! I am using brand new Nauticam 613-core cables (#26216). Yes I did re-read the manual with particular attention to the section on Controlled Manual Mode where AutoFP is referenced. I did see where you can make ev adjustments but don't see where it recommended to set it at +3 ev. However your explanation makes perfect sense and I will give that a try! I'll send a picture of the board I have if this doesn't work. Off to work today so it'll be a bit before I can play with the strobe again. Thanks again, Stewart From the manual: Switch TTL-Converter to Controlled Manual Mode using the camera menu: Bracketing/flash >> Flash sync speed >> 1/200 (Auto FP). Camera setting for any sync speed marked as “Auto FP”, points TTL- Converter to Controlled Manual Mode without pre-flashes. Then underwater strobe light power can be adjusted by camera controls, using “flash exposure compensation” function. • Available adjustment range for underwater strobe: from Minimum strobe’s power (displays as “-3ev” on camera screen) to Maximum strobe’s power (displays as “+1ev” on camera screen). Possible to set step 0.3ev or 0.5ev, by menu. • TTL-Converter does not make pre-flashes in this mode.
  3. Thanks for the quick replies guys! I tried using the camera menu to set flash sync speed menu option to "Auto-FP" but I still wasn't getting it to sync. I'll work on that further as this would be the preferred method since I can do this on the fly underwater if I wanted to. However, I'm not clear on why this mode would give just one strong pulse from the TTL converter. I understand the principle of Auto-FP for high speed sync with compatible strobes, but how does this work with a manual strobe. Can you explain? Using the TTL-converter rotary switch set to "0" solves the issue though! If I'm taking the snoot down I'm dedicated to using it for the entire dive anyway (and regardless I rarely use TTL) so having the converter dial set to "0" isn't the end of the world, it just means I'll have to remember to change it to "1" if I ever thought I was going to shoot TTL on a dive. I do like TTL for controlling exposure of manta bellies...I KNOW I'll be cursing myself one day when I've forgotten to switch it!!
  4. After way too long out of the water, I got all my photo gear out today to experiment in preparation to traveling to Fiji in 3 weeks. I have a never-used Backscatter MF-1 that I've never used with my system. I'm shooting a Nikon D850 in a Nauticam housing with a 26308 TTL Converter for Nikon along with a brand new Nauticam fiberoptic cable. The flash trigger does cause the MF-1 to fire, however the MF-1 isn't syncing with the camera (all images are without flash exposure). I'm stumped as to what the issue is or how to solve it. Advice please! Stewart
  5. Almost new snoot for sale. It's been in the water only twice! I just found that snooting wasn't my cup of tea as I mostly shoot WA. Asking $400.
  6. This is an old post now buried in many pages of classifieds and I've not been to the site in awhile. About to ship all this stuff off to a retailer for consignment sale. Thought I'd bump this back up to the top for one more cycle. Last call on these items here on WetPixel. If any interest let me know right away!
  7. I've just purchased the Nauticam SMC-1 and 2 for my full frame system and so am adding to this D7100 set-up a Saga 67mm flip adaptor and a SubSee +5 diopter macro adaptor. Both for $180. Thanks for your interest!
  8. I have recently purchased a new full frame system and am ready to part ways with my Nikon D7100 system. I have for sale: Nikon D7100 body, excellent condition, $350 Nauticam NA-D7100 with vacuum, normal wear, never flooded, fully serviced by Reef Photo 8/16, $1450 Zen DP-100 mini dome for Tokina 10-17, pristine glass, $600 Zen DP-200 dome port, small scratch (see photo) not visible in any images $1000 Tokina 10-17 Nikon mount, pristine condition, Nauticam zoom gear included, $450 Nauticam zoom gear for Nikon 10-24 DX Lens, note zoom gear ONLY, $100 Sea and Sea YS-D1 strobes (two), never flooded, $350 each If anyone wants all or nearly all the package, I'll deduct $200 from the total. Buyer pays shipping.
  9. I have a Nauticam NA-D7000 Housing for sale. Excellent condition, never flooded, purchased new from Reef Photo 8/11. Will include ball mounts (not pictured). Asking $2000. Selling after changing to another camera/housing.
  10. I have the older version of the Nikkor 105mm lens. I've read that the newer version focuses faster and hunts less in low light. I do have a focus light but there are situations where it is not usable (e.g. shooting pygmy seahorses). Having recently upgraded from a D7000 to the D7100, which has a better focus system, I'm wondering if there would be any noticeable difference in how these two lenses perform on the D7100. Simply put, I'm wondering whether it is worth the upgrade to the newer version 105mm. Thanks for any input!
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