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bcliffe

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bcliffe last won the day on October 5 2013

bcliffe had the most liked content!

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About bcliffe

  • Rank
    Lionfish
  • Birthday 12/10/1969

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  • Website URL
    http://www.bcliffe.com
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Canada
  • Interests
    Photography and Remote Control Submarines

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Canada
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 7D
  • Camera Housing
    Aquatica - A7D
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea & Sea 110a - (3x)
  1. It is much like a coax cable in composition, a thin outer sheath, a sturdy inner protrector, and finally the fiber optic core. I have cables that are stripped down to just the fiber itself and use with no issues. My guess is the fiber optic cable by itself is about 2mm.
  2. Hi Doug, I use TOSlink audio cable, and it seems to work okay. I have used lengths from 2 feet up to 25 feet with no issues. I can optically fire my Sea and Sea strobes with the 25 foot cable with my built in flash output at 1/128. Cheers BC
  3. Lots of variables really go into that one, depth, natural light conditions. Some experipmentation would probably be required. Generally above the waterline some photographers leave a 1/4 CTO on their key flash just to warm people up. For blue water if I had to figure it out I would probably still stay with the CTO family, would probably have some full, 1/2, and 1/4 cut to fit my strobe and stack then in various comibnations until I get the feeling I like. I would think in blue water the change you will probably make is to let your camera WB drift to something more natural, perhaps cloudy. I don't shoot in blue water, so those that do and filter their strobes may want to pipe up.
  4. Doesn't matter if it is a wide angle lens or not, here is an examle with a 12mm on 7D. http://www.flickr.com/photos/bencliffe/6546312679/ The trick is lighting your subject with the gelled flash that color corrects for whatever white balance you are shooting in. My conditions are green water (St. Lawrence River) and not what I want in my images, so my solution is. Full CTO on the flash Tungsten WB on the Camera Straight out of the camera the model skin looks living, and the water blue. Really the only post tweaking will be adding some saturation, if you did not pre-set the WB in camera and set to auto you will likely have to select the WB in post that makes sense for the desired outcome. Cheers Ben
  5. Thanks Dave! +1on this. The use of filters (or lack there of) should be used to align yourvisual concept of what you want to capture. There is no right or wrong withrespect to using them or not. I don't always do what I describe above, thoughwhen it comes to capturing people in water generally that is my approach. Cheers BC
  6. I shoot in the St. Lawrence river, freshwater and very green. My main subject is actually models. My goal is to make the water blue and the models skin look like skin, as much in camera as possible. My method. Camera set to a tungsten WB, and a full CTO on the flashes. Background water becomes blue and anything exposed by the flash is colour corrected. An example with very little post production colour correction. http://www.modelmayhem.com/portfolio/pic/24810237 Cheers Ben
  7. I'm pretty sure we all would be okay with you featuring more of your own work....
  8. Very nice Cal. I bookmarked it. If you can you may want to slow down the transitions a little that highlights the different articles you have. They seem to switch before I can read the quick blurb about the article. Cheers Ben
  9. Great as alway Cal. I always look forward to seeing your work. So a trick I started using this summer in my open water shoots, may have some application in you river series. I shoot in the St Lawrence River (fresh water in Canada) ... the water is very green. What I have started doing is setting a tungsten white balance and gelling my strobes with a full CTO. You lose a lot of flash power, but the out of camera colour is pretty close to what I want and reduces colour correction in post. For the most part I am quite happy with the skin tones and I simply go to saturation select cyans and push a bit more blue ... and that's about it. Anyhoo, just thought I would let you know my method in case it is helpful. Cheers Ben
  10. Stunning! My vote would be for the second version.
  11. George, Since this is getting to know your equipment kinda thing as it's new to you then yes, keeping it simple would be advised. Your choice of 14-24 with the dome port is probably the correct lens choice for the shot you are trying to accomplish. As a starter simply adding a backdrop to the shoot will go miles to making it a better image. This can be as simple as a king size bed sheet weighed down with some chain (thanks James for that tip) Working with a model underwater is in itself a challange. Again simpler is better. I would avoid using scuba equipment and simply freehold your breath. Let's you come up and down a lot easier to communicate with your model. What I might suggest you would want to do to get to know your equipment is perhaps this. First go manual 1/200 at f8 with strobes on TTL ... to see how your rig performs. Next keep your exposure settings the same, take your strobes off TTL and adjust the power manually to gain control over the lighting you want to achieve. Cheers Ben
  12. Kudos, both the video and photography are very well done. Looks to be a complete team effort. Cheers Ben
  13. Lovely images! Great work as always. Cheers BC
  14. Nice work! I do a lot stuff in the St. Lawrence, I have been looking for a way to get the green tint out and move to blues when it comes to the water column. Wanted to tackle this outside of photoshop. So far I have had promising success with setting the WB to tungsten and putting a CTO gel on the strobes. Food for thought if you want to turn that green water blue. Cheers Ben
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